Question about Estate Dryers

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I have an Estate model TGDS680EQ0 gas dryer that stopped drying; it tumbles but there's no heat

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  • cbulajic Feb 04, 2010

    I need step by step insturctions on troubleshooting my dryer problem

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,218 Answers

Good day,
There are many reasons for no heat. You will need an ohm meter for most testing. I'll assume, the gas is turned on.
First remove, the back cover. There are usually 4 thermostats mounted on the rear housing.
One in particular to test first, is a skinny white Bakelite device near the center bottom. It is held in with one screw. Remove one wire, and check for continuity. It should read zero ohms resistance. If not, replace. This component accounts for about 80% of all no heat call problems, on your model.

As well, there are other thermostats, round or rectangular in this area, they should all read zero ohms. if no issues here then....
You will have to access the front of the dryer by removing the front panel.
A tutorial is included at the bottom.
You will see a gas valve, mounted on the bottom left. There is an igniter mounted forward of the valve itself extending into the burning tube. It has 2 wires attached. Unplug, and check the resistance of the igniter. It should read around 20 to 30 ohms. If it reads infinity (no resistance) then it is burned out and needs replaced.

On the gas valve itself, are 2 black coils, held on with a 2 screw bracket. They can short out. The meter cannot properly test them, but if they are bad, you will hear the ignition click on every few minutes, with the igniter coming on but no ignition.
It is a common item to fail, as the igniter, and the white device in the back are.

These are the common items, and account for 99% of all no heat complaints. There are others, such as the heat selector switch, timer, Thermal sensor mounted on the side of the heat tube, and the centrifugal switch in the main motor, but are very rare.

This tutorial does not apply to heating problems. It's to show how to access the front.

http://www.wikihow.com/Replace-a-Dryer-Belt-on-Whirlpool-Models

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

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  • Estate Master
  • 8,220 Answers

The fuse is mounted next to the control thermostat on the blower housing. Looks like this: I have an Estate model - 51d8ebf.jpgIf it is open no power will be sent to the gas assembly. Be sure to clear all lint and air restrictions or this fuse will continue to blow. I have repair photos HERE

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

  • 6 more comments 
  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    The way it works is simple, drum air temp continually passes over the control thermostat mounted on the blower housing. The cold thermostat sends power to the gas assembly, the flame sensor allows power to fire up the ignitor and open the gas coils. The ignitor hogs the power so the coils cannot open the valve. When the heat from the ignitor causes the bimetal inside the flame sensor to buckle it opens contacts and kills power to the ignitor. The rush of power yanks up the coils,the raw gas comes out and hits the screaming hot ignitor and you have heat!. When the temp reaches 160f the control opens contacts and power is cut to the gas assembly. If an air restriction stagnates air in the drum and the temp rapidly rises to 350f then the fuse next to the control melts and kills power to the gas assembly. But the dryer stays running to bring back down the temps in the dryer so the clothes won't be harmed.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    I first check the fuse on the blower housing for continuity. If that is good then the next thing I check is the ignitor. If that is good I check the flame switch.

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    I have an old school repair manual HERE


  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    Newer Manual

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    GAs and Electric models with moisture sensing HERE

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    Check for 240VAC. (electric dryer)
    Check heater continuity, (8-12 ohms).
    Check for voltage (120VAC) to burner
    assembly.
    Check ignitor continuity.
    Check for gas supply.
    Check flame switch continuity, (0 ohms
    when cold).
    Check gas valves for continuity.
    Check thermostat for continuity.
    Check for continuity.
    Manually close centrifugal switch contacts,
    check for continuity, (1M-2M ohms).

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    Thermostat
    Thermal cut-off, Hi-limit
    thermostat
    Motor centrifugal switch

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 04, 2010

    Check lint filter, blower housing, internal
    and external ducting and exhaust hood.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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