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It doesn't spin. it just makes a clicking noise.

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It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these: It doesn't pump or spin It pumps, but doesn't spin It spins only with the lid closed It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these: The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

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I have the ATR6700FS1 front load washer. It goes fine until the spin cycle. It pauses & when I hit restart it makes a noise & doesn't spin. If I hit cancel & go to the spin cycle it


Hello Deanna Lytle - Often when a unit does not spin, it is because the unit cannot properly drain and dispose of the water and detergent solution. Does the unit make a humming noise? If so, the drainage hose/pump may be clogged and needs to be cleaned. If not, the washer may possibly be experiencing an issue with the door lock assembly, faulty pump, timer or control board not communicating correctly. Because it could be a number of any one of several underlying causes, I would recommend contacting a professional to properly diagnose and repair the unit.

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Possible that there is slippage when the program comes to the spin mode. Please check the drive and see if the belt is slipping or the drive is jammed. If not check the motor drive.

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Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better?

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had that problem once and it turned out to be 2 problems....the first was the belt that snapped..replaced it and it did not work turned out to be the pulley on motor broke

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well by your statement the first thing i would try and do is change the belt,,i believe onthejob5130_0.gifit maybe defective ,,thers a picture of belt and one of how it goes on,,which entails removing the motor good luck...onthejob5130_6.jpg

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It is normal for the fan to stay on after the engine is off. The clicking is not. Once the negine is cooled down and the fan is not running. check the fan by spinning it and try to locate the clicking noise. Make sure the fan doesn't wobble. If it does then the bearings are going out, replace the fan. The clicking could be something lodged in the shroud, clicking against the fan blade. Like a stick.

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You may need a new start capacitor or fan motor.I would have the capacitor checked by a electrician and changed if needed. Good luck and thank you.

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