We have a Kenmore stove. The top burners and the oven were not working but the clock still worked. Thanks to the tips here it was a easy fix. It was a corroded and burnt wire on the power cord at the terminal block on the back of the stove. Picked up a Range cord at Ace Hardware for $16.00. Easy to replace. Thanks again.
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Re: Replaced element, oven is still not heating
You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.
The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.
PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.
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The circuit breaker outside in the power panel for the stove has a bad breaker. It will be two breakers with their handles joined together by a pin so if one tripe it takes the other so 220 V is no longer present. When one, but not the other trips you only have 110 V. That's why the lights and clock still work but no heating elements.
Have you checked the oven fuse, there should be one on the stove. To check the element power, remove the element from the back where its attached to the stove Remove the element from the wires (Skip this step if you are absolutely sure the element is not working). Attach your meter clips to the 2 wires (meter set set to at least 250Vac), place a piece of cardboard under the screws and meter clips to isolate them from touching any metal parts of the oven. Turn the meter on, set the oven thermostat to 350, you should have at least 220Vac, if you do the power is fine. Test element for continuity, and for a possible short.
The home's circuit breaker is not the problem if part of the stove / oven works. What is more likely to be the cause is a problem such as an "open" or "burned out" heating element or socket. The control is "on" and sending power to the element. The control reports "Preheating" but since the heating element itself is no longer a complete circuit - it fails to heat. As mentioned above, it may be a problem with the socket that the heating element plugs into - but could be a problem with any wire between the control and the heating element. I would suggest shuting off the circuit breaker for the stove / oven. Check to be sure it is off by turning on a heater that worked previously. If it stays off, you're ready to continue. Carefully inspect the heating element itself for damage. The surface of the heater should be uniform - smooth over the entire length. You may not be able yo view the back side of the heater - but you may be able to run your fingers gently over the surface to feel for damage. If damage is found on the surface, this would indicate that a new element is required. Once replaced, you should expect it to work again as new. If unable find damage, removal and inspection of both the oven's socket and heating element contact blades should be done. If found to be burned or damaged, replacement of the socket, heater or both may be needed. Obtain replacement parts designed for you make and model stove / range. Contact an appliance repair service if unsure how to check / make these repairs. I hope this helps & good luck!
it sounds like you are only getting 110 volts to the stove. have someone that knows a little about your breaker box. check the breakers you may only need to wire it right or may need to add another breaker. should be an relatively cheap fix. good luck remember electricity bites!
So the element is new. I trust that the wiring terminals which attach to the element are okay. If so, it sounds as if you have no power going to the element. If this is the case, particularly if you turned the power off the replace the element and you have a digital timer, the timer is probably on auto. It needs to be set to manual for the oven to work. Turn the oven on and play with the controls on the timer. When the indicator light comes on the timer is on manual. If this is not the problem it could be a fault with the oven thermostat controller.
The stove top is internally wired separately from the oven. Check that you don't have a faulty circuit breaker in your breaker panel. The oven is 240V which has two breakers ganged together. If only one side trips you can loose power to the heating elements but still have power to the control board (to light up ON).
you have no heat at all? K, pull stove out and check how many volts you have should be 240. Your elements work off 240 if you only have 120 coming to stove the lights will work jujst not your heat. You should have a double pole 40amp breaker If you only have 120 change the breaker
Loud pop means electrical fault occured. There may be and internal fuse in the oven that blew. Probably blown oven element but certainly open circuit to timer. Remove back, check for supply to oven timer. If supply is there, the timer can be bypassed to allow for oven element to work as clock replacements are very expensive.
It's not a fuse, but a wire or heating element has burned up.
Please TURN OFF the circuit breaker until you repair the problem, or at least until you know what the problem is!
You say "in" the stove, so I'm assuming that you mean in the oven. Whichever element it is, whether it's in the oven or on the stovetop, just needs to be removed and checked for continuity with an ohmmeter.
Quite frankly, if it IS an element, then you should see a burned-out spot somewhere on it that's pretty obvious. Then you just need to replace the element.
If it's a wire, then you will need to repair the wire so that it safely makes contact with the element again. That process is a little more involved than just replacing an element, but let us know what you find. I can describe a wire-repair procedure if need be. ;)