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How do I remove the drawer from F and P DS601 Single Dishdrawer as I need to get into cavity apparently and dry it out as have an F1 error. Ta

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: F1 code on Fisher and Paykel dishdrawer

Linkages to guide hosing deteriorate + crack over time + will cause a problem over time- hoses get caught between drawer and lid on top of the drawer. Solution - repair perished sections of linkages to guide hoses.

Posted on Aug 06, 2007

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kevin000
  • 1847 Answers

SOURCE: F1 code on Fisher and Paykel dishdrawer

Hi I have just fixed the very same problem , I over stacked the dishwasher which alowed it to overflow and set off flooding sensor. Remedy 1 open dishwasher fully open 2 dry up as much water as possible 3 put a hair dryer on hot and direct into the back of the cabinet you will see a grey plastic cover on the bottom floor this is the sensor run on full for about 5 - 10 minutes making sure the heat go into that erea. Also dont overheat your hair dryer, when finnished close the dishwasher shut and start your normal cycle. The F1 and spanner should be gone it worked for me first time and 100%

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel single drawer dishwasher F1 flashing.

F1 indicates a problem with the Flood sensor. I cleaned all the filters etc. removed the drawer viewed under the drawer, it was dry. There is nothing further I can do, so called the Appliances repair person and booked an appointment for him to determine if an outlet hose is blocked or has a hole in it or whatever. Thanks for all the suggestions Blokes. I'm technically challenged. Happy New Year

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

RescueTech
  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: F&P Dishdrawer turns on and off, on and off by itself

Hi Aaron...
You wrote "I had a F1 problem that I cured by blow drying the control board"
I see techs on other sites telling people to "blow dry" the mains filter board (which has the flood sensor and controls lid motor operation) and it always makes me wince.
F1 is a flood condition. All you do by drying out the board is stop the machine from trying to tell you something is wrong with it. There is a reason why the board got wet in the first place. You won't cure anything by simply drying it out if there is an underlying condition causing a leak.
On your dishwasher, as you may or may not be aware, the lid is controlled by two motors that pull the lid down onto the top of the drawer in order to provide a seal. If, for some reason, the lid either does not come down on one or both sides or something is interfering with the lid's mechanical operation, the machine will leak, and the flood sensor will trip. The machine will appear to "go on by itself" and run the drain pump constantly.

The cure is to determine what happened.

Some possibilities:
1. Improper loading:
When someone places a tall dish, utensil, etc in the wrong position, it will "prop" the lid ajar when the lid comes down. A gap of even 1/4" can cause a leak. It is in cases such as this that drying out the mains filter board (yes it is called mains plural) will restore machine operation, as it was a temporary issue that caused the leak (More on this later).

2. Broken hose link support strap:
On older model 603's, there is a nylon strap that guides the hoses and wiring harness as you open and close the drawer. Over time, this strap can break right in the middle. What happens next, is when the drawer is closed, the strap gets caught between the lid and the drawer's edge, causing a leak. This is easy to see if you dis-engage the tub clips on the drawer rails and slide the drawer forward enough to see the strap behind the drawer. In a case such as this you can blow-dry that board all you want; it's not going to do much good, as the machine will leak again as soon as that strap gets caught in the lid. The fix is to replace the broken link support with the updated kit from Fisher Paykel, which is a part number 528437. You can purchase them here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=242&category_id=58
On double-drawer machines, I always replace both straps, even if only one is broken.

3. Worn or inoperative lid actuator/motor:
As mentioned, the lid is motorized. There are two motors, one on each side of the drawer. They can become worn mechanically, or they can fail electrically or fail to operate because that mains filter board is not sending the signal to one or both motors. The machine's main control board (the one where you select cycles) can also cause a problem.
There should be a detailed tech sheet behind the drawer (lower drawer on double units) that has instructions on how to put the machine in diagnostic mode and you can run the lid motors with the drawer open and check if one is not coming down. And again on older 603, the lid motors can stop working correctly. If they are tan in color, replace them with the new style, which are black in color and have rubber boots over the arms to keep water from running down the shafts and into the motor. Part numbers are 528112 and 528113 and are always changed as a pair. Lid motors can be obtained here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=240&category_id=58

Bad or damaged Mains Filter Board:
This needs to be read over carefully.
On older 603's there will be a GREY colored plastic cover over that board. This is a tipoff that you have the early model. The underside of that board in the area of the flood sensor is uncoated and the solid-state components are exposed to moisture. Over time, calcified deposits build up around the edge of the board on the side where the flood sensor protrudes. These deposits can cause a "phantom F1' condition where the machine thinks there is a leak but there isn't one. Whenever I speak to a customer on the techline who says "I am sure there is no leak but the F1 is activated" I tell them to examine the underside of the Mains board for these deposits. The other thing to be aware of with regard to "blow drying" the board, is that it will warp and sag in the center and this can break the tiny solder joints and cause all kinds of problems for you. The most recent version of this part has a nice, thick almost rubberized coating over the bottom of the board and it's much more durable that the first versions. it also comes with a WHITE colored plastic cover and this is how you can tell if you have newest version of the board. You always should replace the grey cover with the white one. You can get the updated part here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/item.php?item_id=248&category_id=58

I hope this info is useful to you.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: DISHDRAWER IS SSHOWING FAULT CODE F1. WHAT ARE THE

F1 means the flood switch has been activated. here is a trouble shooting flow chart.
1. did a flood occure? yes. q-2 or no q-12
2. is the lid sealing on the tub correctly? yes Q-3 no=Answer
3. Is there a high water level in the tub. Yes-q4 no q-6
4. is the water valve leaking? yes=Answer no-Q 5
5. Is the dish drawer priming correctly? yes q-11 no q-6
6. Is the spray arm split. yes=answer, no q-7
7. is the spray arm running freely. yes q-8 no q=answer
8. is the water leaking from a split inlet or drain hose? yes = answer, no q9
9. is the water leaking around the heater plate or o rings. yes=answer, no q10
10. carroy out more testing to locate the source of the leak.
11. drain hose may have been blocked or partially blocked.
12. is there water or condensation around the chassis flood switch pcb.
13. if power fails to the bottom tub, it will cause the top tub to f1

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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1 Answer

F1 Error code


F1 is flood error. basically water has arrived at the bottom board. you can unplug the dishdrawer, remove the bottom drawer and dry the board at the bottom, maybe with a hair dryer carefully. this will reset the fault, but this is a fault that may appear again. replace the actuators that close the lid of the drawer that is leaking (look for signs of water running our of one of the drawers).

Jul 13, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM...

1 Answer

How do I reset the f1 flood button . Dd603ss


Not sure if you have managed to fix the F1 problem with your dishdrawer. This is a common problem and occurs mainly due to water leaking into the base of the dishdrawer under the bottom drawer.
But if it is occuring only in one drawer then the power filter at the base of dishdrawer is faulty and needs replacement.

Otherwise make sure the mains power to dishdrawer is turned off. Pull out the bottom drawer and stack in some towels behind it if you can to remove the moisture sitting on the base. The flood switch is located there. Then take a hair dryer and run it down behind the drawer to dry things. Push drawer back and turn power back on. Now if you cannot reach the back of the drawer then you will have to pull the drawer out from its rail. Refer the installation manual for this. See link page 7.

You need to find the source of the lead, Fisher Paykel DishDrawer Installation Instructions ManualsOnline com

Jul 05, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...

1 Answer

F1 code


F1 is a flood sensor fault code. The problem sometimes comes from loading the machine above the top of the drawer. When the inside lid comes down before the dishwasher starts, it cannot seal completely and water can spray into the outer cavity. The water accumulates in the inner bottom where there is a sensor. The sensor protects the electronic components from getting wet by warning you of the water which you cannot see. The solution is to remove the bottom drawer and wipe out, then dry the compartment with a fan or a small space heater. Once dry, the machine will function as usual.

Jan 24, 2013 | Fisher DD603FCSS Dishwasher

1 Answer

What does an F1 erroor message mean. I have a


F1 means "flood. there is a flood sensor underneath the drawer, and if there is any water under the drawer the control will show that error. Check the drain hose linkage for cracks. Remove drawer and dry the area underneath.

Jul 14, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DS-603 Built-in...

1 Answer

What does the wrench and F1 mean when the dishwasher isn't working?


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

The water in the drawer is only the symptom of the underlying cause. You will need to be reasonably handy to undertake this operation.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod.

If in doubt get a service technician out. Also search up 'F1 fault' on this site for further assistance.

Jul 06, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher: dishwasher makes a beeping noise and displays F1 w...


F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod. Mine broke anyway when I had reassembled the unit so I had to as a matter of course.
Hopefully this assists someone :)

May 18, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

F1 fault shows flood switch activated, how to


Hello there
This is how i did mine
saved about 300 dollars
First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer, batch%2010-23-04%200031.jpg
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.
With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gookus. None found--my quest continued.
The next step to remove the botton drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the botton cover panel removed:
batch%2010-23-04%200041.jpg
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.
With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms. All this to expose the flood switch, shown on the left-hand side of the bottom panel in the picture below:.
batch%2010-23-04%200051.jpg
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer with the lower drawer removed. The flood switch in mounted on the base, left hand side.
After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.
and clean off the contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. ." So I cleaned the contacts and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.

May 15, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Our F & P dishdrawer keeps coming up with f1 and a picture of a spanner have tried turning the machine of at the switch for 24hr but is still doing it


Water has collected at the base of the dishwasher under the drawer.
This triggers a flood switch and causes the F1 error.

Turn the mains power off and extend the drawer out as much as possible. Take towels to dry the base from inside. Also use hair dryer ot dry out the flood switch mounted at the base.

Turn the power on and see if there is any difference. The cause of water collection could be many. Foam in detergent or kink in drain hose or drawer door gasket leaking etc.

May 11, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM...

2 Answers

Fisher-Paykel DD603 DishDrawer shows F1 fault code. The Flood Switch has been activated. I need instructions on how to re-set the flood switch. I have two drawers that are possitioned one above the...


Fisher-Paykel DD603 DishDrawer shows F1 fault code. The Flood Switch has been activated. I need instructions on how to re-set the flood switch. I have two drawers that are possitioned one above the other and the are both giving the error of the activated flood switch. Any advice or instruction is greatly appreciated.

Jul 22, 2008 | Dishwashers

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