Question about Fisher Dishwashers
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get 2 Free calls (no credit card required) and instant help on almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, appliances, handyman, and even pets).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Linkages to guide hosing deteriorate + crack over time + will cause a problem over time- hoses get caught between drawer and lid on top of the drawer. Solution - repair perished sections of linkages to guide hoses.
Posted on Aug 06, 2007
Hi I have just fixed the very same problem , I over stacked the dishwasher which alowed it to overflow and set off flooding sensor. Remedy 1 open dishwasher fully open 2 dry up as much water as possible 3 put a hair dryer on hot and direct into the back of the cabinet you will see a grey plastic cover on the bottom floor this is the sensor run on full for about 5 - 10 minutes making sure the heat go into that erea. Also dont overheat your hair dryer, when finnished close the dishwasher shut and start your normal cycle. The F1 and spanner should be gone it worked for me first time and 100%
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
F1 indicates a problem with the Flood sensor. I cleaned all the filters etc. removed the drawer viewed under the drawer, it was dry. There is nothing further I can do, so called the Appliances repair person and booked an appointment for him to determine if an outlet hose is blocked or has a hole in it or whatever. Thanks for all the suggestions Blokes. I'm technically challenged. Happy New Year
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
You wrote "I had a F1 problem that I cured by blow drying the control board"
I see techs on other sites telling people to "blow dry" the mains filter board (which has the flood sensor and controls lid motor operation) and it always makes me wince.
F1 is a flood condition. All you do by drying out the board is stop the machine from trying to tell you something is wrong with it. There is a reason why the board got wet in the first place. You won't cure anything by simply drying it out if there is an underlying condition causing a leak.
On your dishwasher, as you may or may not be aware, the lid is controlled by two motors that pull the lid down onto the top of the drawer in order to provide a seal. If, for some reason, the lid either does not come down on one or both sides or something is interfering with the lid's mechanical operation, the machine will leak, and the flood sensor will trip. The machine will appear to "go on by itself" and run the drain pump constantly.
The cure is to determine what happened.
1. Improper loading:
When someone places a tall dish, utensil, etc in the wrong position, it will "prop" the lid ajar when the lid comes down. A gap of even 1/4" can cause a leak. It is in cases such as this that drying out the mains filter board (yes it is called mains plural) will restore machine operation, as it was a temporary issue that caused the leak (More on this later).
2. Broken hose link support strap:
On older model 603's, there is a nylon strap that guides the hoses and wiring harness as you open and close the drawer. Over time, this strap can break right in the middle. What happens next, is when the drawer is closed, the strap gets caught between the lid and the drawer's edge, causing a leak. This is easy to see if you dis-engage the tub clips on the drawer rails and slide the drawer forward enough to see the strap behind the drawer. In a case such as this you can blow-dry that board all you want; it's not going to do much good, as the machine will leak again as soon as that strap gets caught in the lid. The fix is to replace the broken link support with the updated kit from Fisher Paykel, which is a part number 528437. You can purchase them here:
On double-drawer machines, I always replace both straps, even if only one is broken.
3. Worn or inoperative lid actuator/motor:
As mentioned, the lid is motorized. There are two motors, one on each side of the drawer. They can become worn mechanically, or they can fail electrically or fail to operate because that mains filter board is not sending the signal to one or both motors. The machine's main control board (the one where you select cycles) can also cause a problem.
There should be a detailed tech sheet behind the drawer (lower drawer on double units) that has instructions on how to put the machine in diagnostic mode and you can run the lid motors with the drawer open and check if one is not coming down. And again on older 603, the lid motors can stop working correctly. If they are tan in color, replace them with the new style, which are black in color and have rubber boots over the arms to keep water from running down the shafts and into the motor. Part numbers are 528112 and 528113 and are always changed as a pair. Lid motors can be obtained here:
Bad or damaged Mains Filter Board:
This needs to be read over carefully.
On older 603's there will be a GREY colored plastic cover over that board. This is a tipoff that you have the early model. The underside of that board in the area of the flood sensor is uncoated and the solid-state components are exposed to moisture. Over time, calcified deposits build up around the edge of the board on the side where the flood sensor protrudes. These deposits can cause a "phantom F1' condition where the machine thinks there is a leak but there isn't one. Whenever I speak to a customer on the techline who says "I am sure there is no leak but the F1 is activated" I tell them to examine the underside of the Mains board for these deposits. The other thing to be aware of with regard to "blow drying" the board, is that it will warp and sag in the center and this can break the tiny solder joints and cause all kinds of problems for you. The most recent version of this part has a nice, thick almost rubberized coating over the bottom of the board and it's much more durable that the first versions. it also comes with a WHITE colored plastic cover and this is how you can tell if you have newest version of the board. You always should replace the grey cover with the white one. You can get the updated part here:
I hope this info is useful to you.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
F1 means the flood switch has been activated. here is a trouble shooting flow chart.
1. did a flood occure? yes. q-2 or no q-12
2. is the lid sealing on the tub correctly? yes Q-3 no=Answer
3. Is there a high water level in the tub. Yes-q4 no q-6
4. is the water valve leaking? yes=Answer no-Q 5
5. Is the dish drawer priming correctly? yes q-11 no q-6
6. Is the spray arm split. yes=answer, no q-7
7. is the spray arm running freely. yes q-8 no q=answer
8. is the water leaking from a split inlet or drain hose? yes = answer, no q9
9. is the water leaking around the heater plate or o rings. yes=answer, no q10
10. carroy out more testing to locate the source of the leak.
11. drain hose may have been blocked or partially blocked.
12. is there water or condensation around the chassis flood switch pcb.
13. if power fails to the bottom tub, it will cause the top tub to f1
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 13, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM...
Jul 05, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DD603H W Built-in...
Jan 24, 2013 | Fisher DD603FCSS Dishwasher
Jul 14, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 24 in. DS-603 Built-in...
Jul 06, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...
May 18, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...
May 15, 2010 | Dishwashers
May 11, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel DishDrawer DS605FDSM...
Jul 22, 2008 | Dishwashers
131 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: