Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

2 Answers

Fisher & Paykel E521TRX Ice build up in the Freezer compartment

Before this happened there was intermittently water in the Fridge compartment.

I think I know what the problem is as it happened before and watched the engineer part of the time.

It seems that the metal bit that guides the water into the 'evaporator' gets misshaped and the water does not go into the 'tube'.

I think I could have a go in sorting it if I would know how to take off the panel at the back of the freezer - without damaging anything.

Guidance would be much appreciated.

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  • gws_m Feb 03, 2010

    Many thanks for the very sound advice as to how I could possibly tackle this problem.

    However I am still unable to remove the rear panel.

    If you refer to the attached image there appear to be two holes at the top of the panel that seem to invite a screwdriver but I don't know how much force to apply.

    You suggested pulling from the bottom, but that appears to be rigid. It could be that there is still bulging ice behind it.

    Many thanks

    Geza




  • gws_m Feb 03, 2010

    Herewith the precise model no.

    I think I am slowly getting there as I think that the bottom bit can be eased off once the block of ice behind it melts.

    The top right bit is not a screw - I think its the probe for monitoring the temperature of the compartment. There is an identical one in the fridge.

    Once more thank you for dealing with this.


  • gws_m Feb 05, 2010

    Just to update you.

    I failed to take the panel off. However after the defrosting I ascertained that there is no blockage as the melted ice went straight into the evaporator. Through the vent I was also able to see that the 'guide' to the drain was still in the right place. Therefore I have no idea what was/is wrong. The timer ought to be OK.

    So it has been going since yesterday morning with no new build up of ice. Fingers crossed.

    Best wishes.


  • gws_m Feb 09, 2010

    Thanks

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There should be screws on the back panel but you will have to remove the bottom basket and icemaker. remove back panel and clear all ice from defrost drain trough and tube. Good luck.

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

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Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer. If this repeatedly happens with yours, you may can prevent it by taking a bare copper wire and wrap it around a fin near the heater and put the other end a few inches down the drain. The heat convection may prevent it from freezing.

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

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  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Feb 03, 2010

    Is that a screw head you can see on the right of the vents on the right.







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    Your model number is needed for more information.


    It's usually stamped on a small tag in a visible location on your appliance.


    Refrigerator-


    Behind the lower toe kick-plate, Behind the lower crisper drawer, On the
    face frame of the refrigerator body, Inside the refrigerator of freezer on the
    left or right side wall.





  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Feb 03, 2010







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    mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";}



    Your model number is needed for more information.


    It's usually stamped on a small tag in a visible location on your appliance.


    Refrigerator-


    Behind the lower toe kick-plate, Behind the lower crisper drawer, On the
    face frame of the refrigerator body, Inside the refrigerator of freezer on the
    left or right side wall.






  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Feb 03, 2010







    Normal
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    The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
    wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
    hours for around 20 minutes the
    defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
    adaptive defrost control) will turn the
    defrost heater on to
    melt the built up ice. There is a
    defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
    overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
    close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
    cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.






    If this ice is not melted it will continue to
    build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
    through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
    is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.






    If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from
    coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
    to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
    misshapen it is bad.



    With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
    cold and none when warm.



    You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires
    plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater
    comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
    replaced.






    The defrost heater is
    located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
    go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
    it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
    disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
    voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.






    If
    you have a
    defrost
    timer
    you
    can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
    front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top.
    You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
    down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
    means the timer is not running. If it
    doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
    everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.






    If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
    replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
    with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your
    model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and
    search for defrost components to find your parts.








  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Feb 03, 2010

    Maybe you can use a hairdryer to speed up the melting. If you can find more numbers to the model number I might can find another diagram.

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