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Washer draining problem

Our old Whirlpool LHA5500W1 washing machine does not drain the water completely. Clothes are too wet and have some suds when finished.

During draining, water continues to come out of the return filter at the top of the basket. During the rinse drain, suds often comes out of the return filter and continues to come out during the spin cycle.

Is this likely something plugged or a switch problem ?

Do I have to put the washer on its front or back to get to the return hose ?

Thanks !

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  • Newbyz Feb 20, 2008

    Thanks for the quick response !

    We didn't need to remove anything to get at the pump and outlet hose. The outlet hose was about half kinked from the pump to the cabinet. I cut off about an inch of the hose so it would not kink and hooked it up again. When we hooked everything back together the inlet hose leaked so have not been able to test it yet.

    If that doesn't do it we'll have to try the hose into the pump, which looked like a real pain to get to.


  • Newbyz Mar 09, 2008

    I love this site !

  • Gary Davd
    Gary Davd May 11, 2010

    neither you have to remove the cabniet to access parts two screws on the left and right of ctrl panel flip up console remove lid sw connector remove two spring clip (brass looking) and the cab will come off the front

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  • 770 Answers

I am sorry The model I was refering to was not yours... you have an OLD belt driven model there is a panel on the back (2) 5/16 screws to see the pump the best way to replace that hose if you have to is disconnet the fill lines pull the machine out from the wall and lay it on its back for easy access..

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

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Remove the 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel under the washer door. Your filter door will be light brown. If you find a hose there it is to drain out excess water (water that could not be drained by your pump) After you hv drained unscrew the cap and remove all the junk inside. Have a large plastic bag to catch junk and water. Refit carefully after cleaning out. If not solved, something shd be blocking your pump, check this out

How abt a nice rating for the free help? Thnks

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Motor coupler
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  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


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Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve. 

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Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


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Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve. 

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