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If you pull the speaker grille and unscrew the service door behind it, you will find a sticker on the surrounding frame of where the hv splitter is(the one with 4 red thick wires), I think you are supposed to turn the wire you want out 5 times and pull, but I am not sure so look for that important note.
On end of the red wire from the flyback to the top center of your CRT (picture tube) there is an anode cap. Get a wire clip and a long screw driver that has an insulated handle. Attach one end of clip wire to known ground on TV chassis and the other end to the screwdriver. Now carefully slide tip of screwdriver under the anode cap. You should hear a little snap. Now the CRT is discharged.
The High Voltage Splitter is the cause of this and replacing it should fix the problem. Their should not be a shock hazard once power is diconnected. But just incase, ground each of the anode leads from the crts to ground. That should take care of any HV charge from the CRTS. Do make a note of which wire went went where, that is important. When you get the new HV Splitter, you will need to transfer the small board that is mounted on the old Splitter. Again, be aware of where the wires hook up to it and you will be fine.
Hope this helps,
I would suspect that the shutdown circuit is triggering. Have you checked the HV anodes of the CRTs to see if the voltage is fluctuating? In addition I would check the Horizontal output transistor and the Power FET in the switching power supply. The fact that you removed the blue CRT and put it back and the problem seemed to go away points to a possible cold solder joint which could have this effect also. There are a number of things that could be wrong, Here is a list of some of them that you can check:
1) Faulty component on power supply board (check capacitors for problems) 2) Faulty connection on power supply board (check for cold solder joints) 3) Faulty component on Deflection of HV power supply board (check for bad capacitors, zener diodes, Horizontal Output Transistor, and Integrated High Voltage Ttransformer) 4) Faulty connection on HV power supply board (check for cold solder joints) 5) Faulty CRTs (check anode voltages, remove anodes from CRTs and see if the set remains on, if so check for shorts on the CRT socket board or using a CRT analyzer check for internal CRT shorts)
Check the info from this website on how to remove shorts from CRTs. This is not a DIY for sure.
The CRT you can remove it yourself, just be very careful when removing the high voltage wire that is connected from the HV trippler to the CRT anode. The CRT anode cable stays with the CRT.
it's not the crt's themselves but more like the anode line coming from the crt. This will need to be taken out of their sockets and cleaned the metal tips on each. Yes it has high voltage in this area. So unplug and discharge whole set and still be careful.
You need to remove the back and observe where the spark is coming from while the set is on. Dimming the lights may help you. Sometimes you can see a blue glare accompanied by an ozone smell. You might even hear a sound such as a slow air leak in a tire. The most likely area is around the high voltage transformer or the picture tube anode. The transformer has the thick red wire or wires coming out of the top. Also follow the three red wires to the picture tube anode( the place where the red wire plugs into the tube) Use your senses, listen smell , and look for any blue glare or arcing to the metal frame. If you find the leak near or on the transformer use 100% silicone rubber to patch. Allow at least 12 hours to cure. If the arcing is coming from the picture tube contact me for detailed instructions. You must act promptly and find the source of the arcing before you have a dead set. In short, spark + flash = crash. Good luck