Well first off i ive tested the subs, 2 12" compvr 2-0hm, in a sealed custom box for a 97 z28, ive got a 1200 mono Class-d Hifonics 1206d amp. The subs are hooked up correctley and worked fine in a friends ride. I have had this amp for a while now and it worked fine then started getting the poppin noise from the subs bout a year ago, i just thought the subs were blown, so i just ordered some new one's and im getting the same problem, the protect light on the amp never come's on. Yesterday i was messing with it for a min and all i did was switch my RCA's on the amp and adjusted the level and it started workin, then while driving down the road, bout 20 min later, they started popping with the very little base thats coming out again, even when volume on head unit is turned down.
im thinkin there is a short or the amp is blown can someone please give some advice?
Ive tried checking the ground, and i got new RCA's and just ran them over the seats to see if they could be grounding out, but thats not the problem either.
I had an amp do that a few years ago i did everything it turned out that it was the cdplayer. then agin myfriend had the problem and it was his altonator he had to get a ground loop isolator they are cheap
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If it's only your subwoofers cutting out and your speakers are still playing and all, try turning gain down on sub amp and see if that fixes it. I know if I crank my amp too high it kicks itself off to try to keep itself from blowing.
For optimal performance there is really only one size for the box .Firstly, you get two different types of subwoofers, an open air, or closed air sub. If it is an open air sub ( hole with mesh in the center of the magnet) no ports are required, and the box should be sealed on the inside with silicone sealant. If it is a closed air sub ( no hole in the magnet) you need a 50mm port about 120mm long. If it is a 12 inch sub the box size will be 13 inches x 13 inches x 13 inches. Hope this helps
If it is an open air sub ( hole with mesh in the center of the magnet) no ports are required, and the box should be sealed on the inside with silicone sealant. If it is a closed air sub ( no hole in the magnet) you need a 50mm port about 120mm long Box size will be 13 inches x 13 inches x 13 inches
1 OHM...ONE... sheesh now thats a low resistance for anything... If they are only 500 watts and they are in parallel, series well NO.. your amp puts out wayyyy too much for those speakers.. 1200w versus 500 watts by 2... srill NOT enough "Head room" for it to be safe... about half is all you could expect before Pop.. sound is heard.
it depends on the amp your using and the impedence of the coils.(ohms) for general purposes lets say that you amp is designed to run 500 watts bridged mono into a 4 ohm load. Lets also say that your subs have dual 4 ohm coils on them. To achieve the 4 ohm load you would want to run the coils in series on each sub,meaning that one of the positives is going to connect to the negative on the sub the remaining + and - terminals are what you will connect your speaker wire to. you just turned your dual 4 ohm coil sub into a 8 ohm single coil speaker. Do the same thing to the other sub and now you have a pair of 8 ohm subs with a set of wires coming from each. Now parallel those sets of wires together( + and +) and (- and -) and run that to your amp. This will give you a 4 0hm load at the amp
Really it all depends on how you want them to sound, and to be set up. There really is not specific air space, but there are general air spaces that work, and some times the manufacture will list some specs for different set ups. It also depends on the size of the sub, which you did not specify.
Kicker recommends as follows.
0.4 cubs per sub for a compact box, and 1.8 for an SQ box. SQ stand for sound quality.
So if you want a small box, do .4 per sub. If you want a better sounding box do 1.8.
Rule of thumb and something to think about.
The more air space in the sub, the less power you can run, the less air space, the more power you can run.
For example you can run 200 watts RMS per sub at .4 cubes, but only 140 watts RMS with 1.8.
As well, the smaller box will be louder, But not sound as good.
You did not specify what type of enclosure the subs are in or if they share the same airspace. But the sound you describe sounds suspiciously like the enclosure is at fault and not the sub itself.
Remove and reverse the subs in the box and test for the noise again. If the noise is still produced on the same side of the box, it's the enclosure. If the noise follows the sub, then you have a problem with that sub.
If the box is making the noise, and it's a ported box, you probably have "port noise". If it's a sealed enclosure, you could have either an air leak or flexing noise. In either case, repair the enclosure or put the subs in a new one. If the sub itself is making the noise, there probably isn't much you can do. Most likely some part of the voice coil assembly is touching where it should not.
comp VR 15s are rated @ 500W RMS 1000Peak.
The lanzar vibe amplifier is 2 x 600W RMS at 4 OHMS 2 x 1200W MAX at 4 OHMS 1 x 2400W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged 2 x 1000W at 2 OHMS RMS.
Your subs are single 4 ohm subs.
If your subs are wired stereo, they both are seeing 600W. (more than the rated RMS)
Chances are, you have them wired parallel to a 2 ohm mono load - of which that amplifier is not rated. In theory, it will produce about 2000W @ 2 ohm mono for a short period of time.
Your amplifier is too powerful for your subs. Turn down the gain setting to 3/4 or purchase better subs. Also be sur the subs are inthe proper enclosure. It sounds as if they are excurting past their linear x-max and colliding with the rear bump plate. This will cause damage down the road if left as is.