My icemaker quit. i puchased a new one, same prob. i checked the valve by switching water dispenser switch and valve is working. not getting water into tray. could the line be froze inside freezer?
water in bottom of freezer
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Re: no water in icemaker
Hi, did the ref. in the proper level? An icemaker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer
It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then retightening the screws.
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On the rear of the refrigerator, there is a water control valve, that controls the flow of water to the icemaker and the water dispenser, if equipped. Hard water is usually the cause for this to quit running. The icemaker and water dispenser, are two separate circuits, and each one has it's own water control valve.
Note: Always make sure your filter is current if you have one. Not doing so will cause water to not despence properly Pull the machine out and remove the lower back cover. Locate the water valve. With the water turned on and connected remove the 5/16" water line (the bigger one) and then have someone else press the water in the door. If the cylinoid is operating correctly it should spray water out.If so, you just verified that the valve and electrical portions are working properly and either the filter is bad or the resevoir, , located inside the lower refrigerator side is frozen. If no water comes out but the valve vibrates, then the valve is bad. If no water and no vibration, continue reading.With the machine plugged in but the wires that go to the valve for the dispenser off take a volt meter and place a lead to each wire and have someone press the panel in the door as if getting water. The reading should go from 0 to around 115-120 a/c.If your not getting electricity down there at anytime than thje door switch is bad. Testing the ice maker: As far as the smaller line (1/4") you have to manually advance the ice maker and wait for it to call for water with the 1/4" line disconnected from the valve. You can do this by getting a jumper wire, removing the cover of icemaker, which you jsut grab and pull off, and using the jumper wire insert one end of the wire into the cirle marked m and the other in the cicle marked n. Leave there until you hear a click and sometimes see a little spark behind the modular head wheel. Also if you see ice in the maker that hasn't dumper and the teeth of the icemaker are facing any direction other than two o clock position, the icemaker is bad. Also check the fill tube to be sure the no ice is blocking water from coming in.
Highly unlikely both valves failed at same time. Not sureon your fridge but on some, if freezer door switch is not working, dispenserwon't work. Does the freezer light go off & on when door is opened &closed? If you have a voltmeter, check that water valve is getting 120 voltswhen dispenser is pushed in. If no voltage, I would suspect the micro-switchthat you hear clicking when you push in with a glass. Even though it clicks,the contacts could still be bad in it.
If the icemaker is not gettingwater, check for the following problems:
Be sure that the icemaker is turned on and plugged in. The power cord for your icemaker is plugged into the left or back wall of the freezer.
Check to make sure that the water supply line valve is turned on. This valve is usually found under the sink or in the basement. This is the only water supply line needed for the refrigerator.
Be sure that the freezer has cooled down properly after the initial installation. This may take several hours.
Make sure the plastic fill line on the icemaker has not come out of the back of the icemaker.
Check the fill tube (plastic tube above the icemaker) going into the icemaker. In order to do this, the icemaker must be removed. If the tube is frozen solid, you will most likely need a new water valve.
If the ice-maker is getting water, but there is no water tothe dispenser, check for the following:
If the doors were removed during installation, be sure that the door wiring harness is plugged in. Refer to your Owner's Manual/Installation Instructions for the specific location of the wiring harness.
Check the water lines and make sure they are not kinked or restricted.
There is a tank behind the vegetable drawers or on the left side of the Fresh Food compartment that could be frozen. You may be getting water in the ice-maker, but not the dispenser. To rid the tank of the ice, check the set temperature on your controls. If it is set colder than the recommended setting, adjust to a warmer setting.
Chances are that one of the 2 valves in the assembly is bad. It is on the refrig in back, where the water supply line connects. remove the connector to the water dispenser valve (the other is for the icemaker) and connect a jumper power cord to it and then to the wall outlet, momentarily. If water comes out the dispenser, then the valve is good but the switch on the door is bad. If the valve does not hum, the valve is bad.
I have seen the water dispenser lines freeze in the back of the refrigerator, near the water cooling tank or coils, preventing dispensing of water.
verify the water supply to the valve first, second verify valve to icemaker works(unit has dual valve at rear bottom of fridge, switch plugs, then press water dispenser and see if icemaker fill with water ) if fills icemaker is bad , if not valve is bad. replace one or the other.
i used a compressor to see if water inlet in freezer wall was open.....nope. used blow dryer and wire and removed chunk of ice frozen in line, fixed the prob. thanks to this site i was able to troubleshoot the problem.
It sounds like you have covered all the primary troubleshooting checks. There is only one thing I can think of at this point.
Check the voltage coming to the water valve during the icemaker cycle. The power to the valve is decreased by the resistence of the icemaker heater from 120 volts down to about 108 volts. It is not uncommon to have a valve that will open when you put 120 volts to it, as you do when you switch solenoids, but not open at the decreased voltage when it goes through the icemaker circuit.
If you are getting voltage to the valve when it cycles, and you know for sure the water line to the icemaker is clear, then you will need to replace the valve.
Post back and let me know what you find.
Have you made sure your water supply was good and a good steady flow of water is flowing in to the back orf the fridge?/ If you have then theres a small micro switch that opens a water valve at the proper moment of the cycle of the ice maker. This switch is inside the icemaker up against a small cam being driven by a small motor. The switch activates a small valve that lets the water flow into the ice maker.if the water flow is good its the switch or the valve. Good luck