- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
All the big cooling happens inside freezer compartment. Freezer gives little cool air to fridge compartment. Now when the vent blocks that little cold air cannot go into fridge compartment. Thus your freezer works good but not fridge compartment. Milk goes bad but frozen meet keeps good.....
Vent freeze up either due to defrost problemt, defrost drain line problem, Evaporator fan problem or even can be your damper motor not opening due to unit failure or frozen damper door.
Many residential refrigerator / freezers are designed to work at temperature considerably above above freezing. Most modern refrigerator / freezer have a single electric thermostat - located in the fresh food compartment. This lone thermostat will control the compressor to keep the fridge (fresh food) section at the desired temperature (usually between 34 - 38 degrees F). The freezer will get colder regardless of how cold it is already whenever the fridge thermostat turns the compressor on.
Now that you see how the thermostat works, let's look at what happens when the fridge is placed in an unheated space - like a garage. In winter time, the temperature can drop considerably below 38 degrees. If the outdoor temperature remains cold enough, for long enough - it will affect the thermostat in the fridge. The temperature inside the fridge could drop below 38 degrees, preventing the thermostat from telling the compressor to turn on. Meanwhile, the temperature in the freezer compartment slowly rises from the normal -10 to 0 F degrees. It will continue to rise until it is the same temperature as the fresh food compartment or until the thermostat in the fresh food compartment tells the compressor to turn on again. This means the freezer contents will thaw.
If the temperature in the garage is even in the 40 to 50 degree range, the loss of cold in the fridge may not happen often enough to keep the compressor coming on often enough to keep some freezer items frozen solid - such as ice cream. Remember, water freezes at 32 degrees F, other products may require lower temperatures to remain frozen, and could thaw at 28 or other temperature.
Hi,
There can be many reasons why your refrigerator is freezingyour food. To see what could be happening and to figure out how to possibly fixyour problem. Take a look at this tip which contains many of the causes andsolutions to fix the problems.
Classic symptom of: the connection passageway between the freezer and the fridge compartment has closed off - usually due to ice buildup - or something clogging/blocking the passageway. Your Refrigerator works by releasing cold air into only the freezer, then this cold air passes thru a passageway into the fridge compartment to cold (but not freeze) the fridge compartment contents. If this passageway is blocked, then just the freezer works, and cold air never makes it into the fridge compartment. In the old days, you'd be told to defrost your freezer, since the blockage was ALWAYS caused by frost buildup. Today, we have frost-free freezers, and your freezer may simply have too much stuff inside - there has to be some room to allow some air flow around items in the freezer, and whichever item is blocking the air passage to the fridge compartment - just move it away from the passageway opening.
hello. this is a common problem. The thermostat for a refrigerator/freezer is in the refrigerator part. Normally the refrigerator is kept at around 40 degrees. The compressor turns on as required to maintain this tempearture. The evaporator coils are concentrated in the freezer side, so that the freezer stays at around 0 degrees while the fridge side is held at 40.
If the ambient temp is around 25 degrees, the refrigerator compartment will get below the setpoint of 40 degrees, and gradually continue down towards 25 degrees. The compressor will not have to run at all to maintain this. In fact, the compressor is designed not to run, once the refrigerator compartment gets below the setpoint, for fear of freezing the contents of the fridge.
The lack of circulating refrigerant due to the non-running compressor means that the freezer compartment will gradually warm up to 25 degrees.
If the unit were just a freezer, it would work fine in the unheated garage. If it were just a refrigerator, it would not run in these conditions, and the contents would eventually freeze, but it is otherwise OK.
Regards, Joe
PS kindly rate my answer. Thank you.
The answer could well be Yes. Ideally you should reoplace the harness anyway. The fridge controls and air valve shutter (see below) will also be wired via the harness.
First thing to try is Powering off the FF at the mains supply and leaving it standing for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not open any of the doors or touch any of the controls during this time. Then reconnect the power and wait for 30 to 60 minutes to see if the fault remains or is cured. Try completely defrosting the FF as despite common belief these units are not totally frost free. In side by sides if the freezer side is working OK and the fridge side is not working correctly it means that air ducting has iced up or the air vent from the freezing unit to the fridge compartment has stuck in the closed or partially closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be. If it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position and the fridge temperature will continue to fall and become the same as the freezer, thereby freezing the contents of the fridge compartment. It can also get stuck in another position so that if the temperature is adjusted on the front panel then nothing happens to the temperature in the fridge compartment. The vent, which is usually at the top of the fridge compartment on the side where it joins the freezer compartment, is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up. It can be come iced up by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. If the sync motor and vent are working OK then there may be a fault with the fridge temperature sensor or main on board controller that will mean that the sensor or the controller will need replacing
Check that the condenser is not iced up and check that the air ducts are not iced up. Easiest way is to deforest the s/s entirely. If the Fridge is the problem and the freezer is OK then also check the electric shutter valve at the rear top of the fridge compartment on the side next to the freezer. This is where the cold air is sent into the fridge compartment by the cooling fan and air ducting. These do have a tendency to ice up and then breakdown so they stay shut and the Fridge keeps warm or they stay open and the fridge ices up and freezes the contents. Contrary to beliefe these types of FF are not totally frost free.
First thing to try is Powering off the FF at the mains supply and leaving it standing for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not open any of the doors or touch any of the controls during this time. Then reconnect the power and wait for 30 to 60 minutes to see if the fault remains or is cured. In side by sides if the freezer side is working OK and the fridge side is not working correctly it means that the air vent from the freezing unit to the fridge compartment has stuck in the closed or partially closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be. If it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position and the fridge temperature will continue to fall and become the same as the freezer, thereby freezing the contents of the fridge compartment. It can also get stuck in another position so that if the temperature is adjusted on the front panel then nothing happens to the temperature in the fridge compartment. The vent, which is usually at the tope of the fridge compartment on the side where it joins the freezer compartment, is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up. It can be come iced up by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. If the sync motor and vent are working Ok then there may be a fault with the fridge temperature sensor or main on board controller that will mean that the sensor or the controller will need replacing.
Also worth checking the return air path from the fridge and making sure it is not blocked or frozen up. Also check the freezer compartment and cooling panel at the rear (behind the cover plates) and the fan for icing / blockage up as it sounds like there is a mini vacuum being created when the freezer door is closed or you have too much in the frezer so it presses on the back plate and stops the mini fan circulating air to the fridge.
This box is the evaporator which provide cooling for the whole fridge. They will only freeze things solid that are easy to freeze. Don't count on it being like the normal freezer.
×