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Seems the Thermocouple (instrument that lets the oven know the gas is lit) is not working properly. Your ignitor is working thus allowing the gas to burn...but the heat is not moving down the thermo line to register as being lit. Thus the oven thinks gas is being pumped but not burning and turns off as a safety precaution. THere must be a thermostat sensor...usually a wire or tube that allows the heat from the burning flame travel towards a sensor...this is faulty...remove and replace.
This flame sensor switch is a safety device that only allows the main valve to open after is is satisfied there is a pilot flame. Otherwise if there were no pilot and the main valve was allowed to open, the inside of the burner area would quickly fill with gas and pose an exposion hazard. The original capillary tube type switch is obsolete and a new electronic unit conversion kit is available. Contact Imperial tech support for more information
The ignitor is bad again,if it (ignitor) comes on but no flame/heat its the ignotor again, what would make the ignotor go bad so fast (usually last 10-15 years) is a problem with the oven burner, so now BOTH the ignitor and burner would need to be replaced,if it is 15 years old the ignitor is readily avaliable but the burner may not be
if your oven is gas its is very difficult to make perfect baking of of the uneven heating,if your oven is elecric is with convection that one good compare to gas oven on an electric oven without convection, the advantage of oven the with convection is even heating.
sounds like the ffd is at fault, this is a safety device that alows the main flow of gas through. when the cooker is cleaned the sensor can be moved by accident from its position over the flame, another reason could be a build up of grease etc, stopping the flame reaching the sensor. if none of these then the ffd unit needs to be replaced. they are about £20.00 for the part
THIS SOUNDS LIKE THE ELEMENTS HAVE BURNT OUT TO FIX FIRST TURN OFF THE POWER THEN LOCATE THE SCREWS HOLDING THE PANEL INSIDE THE OVEN REMOVE ALL SCREWS AND PANEL THEN REMOVE THE ELEMENT FROM ITS PLUG CONNECTION TAKE THE ELEMENT TO A ELECTRIC AND PLUMMERS SUPPLY STORE REFIT ELEMENT AND YOUR OVEN SHOULD WORK FINE .
Hi If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner. The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening: The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced. The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame. The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve. But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat. If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly. If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere. One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities: There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat. The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it. Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode. Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance. Thanks Rylee
Hi. you will need to replace two devices. you will need ot replace the ignitor and you will also need to replace the coil assembly that is located on the burner assembly. these two devices are faulty and, this is causingthe interruption you are experiencing.
The coils actually control the gas valves. they provide the resistance that initiates the opening and closing of the valves and, the ignitor ignites the flame.
DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link