Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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My dryer doesn't spin but it heats. You can hear the motor running.

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This is commonly casued by a broken dryer belt. If the model number is correct, you can access the belt by performing the following steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.

2. Remove the two screws that were under the lint screen and lift the top panel.

3. Unplug the door switch conector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.

4. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.

5. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. If the belt is broken, this may cause the idler pulley (tensioner) to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To install a new belt (if required) and re-install the pulley, follow these steps:

1. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

2. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

3. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram H.

NOTE: If you still have the teflon glide type tensioner, Whirlpool recommends you replace it with a conventional roller type idler pulley. The teflon type tensioners caused premature wear to the drive belt. A replacement pulley can be ordered on line at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number is 341241 and is listed as item 33 under the "Cabinet" heading. NOTE: You can view helpful exploded view diagrams at the first the 3 sites on the list.

Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws.

NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them.


If you have any questions about this repair, or if your model number differs from the one you have this question listed under, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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