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Re: dryer won't heat
The back panel doesn't come off for service!!! Most heating and control components are available behind the kick panel below the main dryer door.. With electric dryers my normal train of thought in diagnostics is to start with source of power. Do I have 220 volts available at the terminal board where the electric cord is connected??? Quite often I find a blown fuse, etc to cause it to stop heating as the motor will run fine on 120 volts as thats all it requires, but the unit will not heat with out 220 volts to the element.. best of luck, and have fun, ttfn
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From the model number it seems this machine was made by Whirlpool for Kenmore. The thermal fuse is on front bottom near the blower wheel.
a) Pop open the front panel.
b) Then remove front door panel by removing the two secrews
c) Remember to disengage the door switch wiring
d) you will see the thermal fuse near the blower compartment.
e) If thermal fuse is burned out then it should not have continuity on OHMS scale on a multimeter.
Hello there and welcome to fixya Heating elementOften
a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker
or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special
wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity
means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating
elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is
burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside
the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually
embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the
fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To
determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
for using FixYa. No Heat
issue in an electric dryer is usually caused due to three things mainly:
Thermal Fuse, Wiring Harness and/or Heating Element. Start with checking the
Thermal Fuse which is mounted inside the back cover panel to the exhaust duct
and is mounted in white plastic housing. If that’s fine then the Heating
Element should be checked. Please do rate the solution if the
issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance. Thanks Rylee
There is a thermal sensor attached to the housing of the heating element, you can check the thermal sensor by jumpering the two wires to the thermal sensor together, and then run the dryer and see if the heating element is now working, if the dryer is now heating up then replace the thermal sensor.
Hi Please check the things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - House fuse or breaker (needs two of them), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse (not all models), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. And also check the things that could stop a gas dryer from heating if you have a gas dryer: -Glow bar igniter, thermal fuse (not all models), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance. Thanks Rylee
1. No power to the dryer Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.
2. Heating element A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.
3. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check:
1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST.
2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer.
3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on.
4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad.
5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat.
6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms).
7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up.
I hope this helps you.