What is the warranty on the drum

that sort of failure indicates an engineering and manufacture fault
even though the warranty may have run out
in consumer law there is a term "reasonable expectation" which roughly translated means that even though the warranty has run out , it is reasonably expected that the machine will perform for longer than the warranty period
Talk with a lawyer as you probably could get a new drum for the cost of the labour required to fit it

Hi,
Looks like a main rubber seal that leaks.
You have to check and replace the main shaft center rubber seal that holds the main rotor from the motor to the washer tub.
Thats why theres water around the the lower compartment, it only drips a small ammount thats why it doesn't wet your flooring.
Check also some small clothing that might have lodge in the center shaft and broke your seal.

Hope that helps you out!
Thanks for using Fixya!

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following for how to pull the agitator(s)s and drum. You don't have to pull the pump, motor, gearcase and drive tube:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

NOTE":

You don't have to buy a special spanner wrench ($20) to remove the spanner nut. I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (about $9.00 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked over one of the tabs on the spanner nut, tap the handle with a hammer and it should loosen.

Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer. Use a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap up on the wood.

Not sure if this applies to you, but I do remember back in January 2006 was the date that a large amount of the appliance manufacturers reduced the period of time that their appliances were covered by the manufacture, changes affacted nearly all types of major appliances.
Most went to a all inclusive 1 year parts and labor warranty and you the consumer would be responsible for all failures and labor after the 1 year period which started from the date of purchase. You may have made your purchase smack dab in the middle of the transition period and then details would probably be determined by way of manufactured date.
Good luck !

Here's one place you can order a new drum. However, if the drum has cracked twice in four months you need to find out if there's something else with the dryer that's making the drum crack. You also need to think if you're doing something like putting shoes in there or something that's stressful on the dryer.

We just discovered the same problem. The drum is cracked at the seam in the very front of the drum. We are going to call tomorrow because I agree, this seems like a manufacturing defect to me. I'll post the outcome after we talk with Maytag.

Not sure what the cost of a new drum is, but yesterday I fixed one. I took a chance and bought one of these dryers with a crack for $70 on Craig's list. Not an easy job, but if your handy, know what your doing, and have the tools you can get the job done in about 3 hrs. Here's how:

Disconnect the dryer and move it to a space where you have plenty of room to work. Remove the drum belt from the motor, noting how the belt goes through the belt tentioner and motor. The drum comes out the front, once the front is removed. Be gentle and you'll have the drum out in less than 30 minutes. Be very careful with all wiring and connectors. Gently remove the felt edging at least 8 to 12 inches away from the crack. It is glued to the drum. Use some duct tape from the opposite side of the drum to hold it way from the crack. Next position the crack together as closely as you can, and hold it together with a set of vice-grips on the outermost edge. Using an ACETYLENE torch (not normal propane) and brass brazing rod with flux start near the inside/center of the drum and work your way out toward the edge. Take your time, use lots of heat, and make sure the brazing sticks. I rested my drum on a metal trash barrel so it was up in the air and I could braze it comfortably. Next find a piece of stainless steel. I used a hose clamp. Verify it's truly stainless by seeing if it sticks to a magnet. A stainless should just barely attach. Very few hose clams are truly stainless. You can also use a piece of old kitchen sink, or cut a piece off a stainless dog bowl, moulding, etc. I cut off the end on the hose clamp, and positioned the strap of the clamp on the outside of the drum, perpendicular to the crack about 1 inch in from the edge. I used a clamp to hold it in place. I then brazed each end of the hose clamp. Then remove the c-clamp, and do along the hose clamp to add strength to the area so it does not open up again. After your done, brazing, go back and take some time to really clean up the outside of the drum with a grinder. The drum rotates on rubber wheels which run along the outside of the drum. If you did this right the drum wheels will NOT pass over the hose clamp, but only pass over a small amount of brazing over the actual crack. This takes some skill to accomplish, but the brass brazing will never leave rust marks on the clothes. When I ran the dryer empty you could mildly hear a bump as the wheels passed over the brazing. However with a full load you don't even hear it at all. Got home with the dryer at 4:45, and had it done by 7:45. It may break again in 6 months some where else...but for now it works like a charm.

the hose from the drum to the pump, and from the pump to the drain, are at the front,
Movement of the drum during wash cycles, wears the short hose between drum and pump and it develops cracks, eventually a wash load of any size will finally cause one of the cracks to penetrate through the rubber, and constant drip occurs.
Its an easy fix, no more than screwdrivers needed.
the local parts guy will have the hose, even if it is labelled ge frididaire whirlpool the same hose is common to many makes and models

• turn off water unplug washer
• pop the endcaps off the control panel, and completely remove the phillips head screw under each endcap
• lilft the control panel ~1inch and flip it over the back of the washer,
  (do not dislodge the water level sensing hose or we'll be back to fix it later, hinges are plastic, dont bust em)
• remove the two brass clips under the control panel
  (note position for reinstall)
• remove lid switch connector
• lift entire body up ~1 inch and remove forward
• motor pump hoses gearbox are now exposed.

examine hose from drum to pump, and from pump to cabinet rear,
replace cracked and crazed hoses.
reassemble in reverse order

You may have had a foreign object slip under a loose drum baffle. Manually rotate the drum to locate wwhich baffle it is in.

do you still have it warrenttied