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I have a brigs & straton 19.5 hp oposed cyl that knocks with out a load but stops knocking with a load I have cked end play and main bearing runout both are in spec this only happens when it is cold also it runs way at idle even though the screw is backed all the way out any help would be great this thing driving me nuts

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  • pmay39 Feb 02, 2010

    possible but why would it stop by putting presure on the pulley

  • pmay39 Feb 02, 2010

    at idle with nothing turning it knocks of you let the clutch out not in gear only belt turning the knock stops the crank shaft end play and side play are in spec also it idles very high this thing is a 19.5 hp brigs & straton oposed cyl vertical shaft

  • pmay39 Feb 02, 2010

    on the idle if you pull the throtle closed at the the carb it will slow down but as soon as you let go the gov takes it back to 1200 to 1500 rpms

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Your knock may be a fuel knock. I would start buy removing the carb. and cleaning it. After you get the carb. off and take the fuel bowl off, check for crud in the main jet, the crud holding the float down letting to much fuel by. I think this is one reason it is worse when it is cold. If that does not do the trick, next thing to check for would be a carbon build up in the head. Pull one spark plug and look down in the cyl. see if you see *** and white deposits, and build up. Sometimes on some engines you can scratch out a good bit thru the plug hole. Hope this helps.

Posted on Feb 03, 2010

  • John Fourteen Six Feb 09, 2010

    Hello pmay39 have you fix your engine knock? What was the fix if I may ask ? I would like to know for future reference.

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If it is a fairly loud, sharp, metalic knock, it has to do with a bottom end issue. Even with run out within specs, if you have a balance issue, you can have some crank knocking, however I would come closer to believing that it is a rod connection, either at the crank or at the piston, (more than likely at the crank). If the knock is not as I described, such a noise can be made with advanced timing, (which could explain the run away), however ususally if the flywheel slips, it is a ****** isse rather than advance. The run away is likely a carb issue...most likely place to check, the needle seat. If it is leaking or out all together, you will experience run away. If it were me, I would remove the carb and soak in carb cleaner, then blow out with compressed air, and replace all gaskets and seats. One thing....is the governor working? It is designed to engage and keep you at 3600 rpm...If it is not working, something could have broken off in the engine case and may have a play in that knock. (Unlikely, but worth checking). I know I have given you a lot to check, but these engines have a farily simple, But dependable, design, and everything is easy to disassemble and check. Good Luck! I hope you find this to be very helpful!

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

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Sounds like a wrist pin on the piston

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

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1 Answer

3.1L has rod knock. I have 20yrs of auto mechanic and built a few engines, but retired now.


If the knocking is from the bottom of the engine, it may be the big end bearings have worn.
Replace them or not? Difficult question.

Replacing the big end (crankshaft/piston rod) bearings may stop the knocking/rumble noise. It depends on the crankshaft..

If the crankshaft has worn oval on its journals, fitting new bearings is unlikely to achieve anything as the bearings may break up due to the oval of the crankshaft. Removing the crankshaft and checking the journals for ovality/regrinding if necessary isn't a 5 minute job.

You say you have good oil pressure. That's a positive.

Personally, in your situation, I would try an engine oil additive that's designed to eliminate knock provided the main bearings haven't worn down to base metal. It's the cheapest option.

Failing that - and again, personally - I would remove the oil pan and fit new big end bearings in the hope that it would work.

The next step, if that doesn't work - would be to remove the crankshaft and have it reground and fit oversize bearings. Or get a 2nd hand engine...

You say the car was given to you for free .. you have nothing to lose. Try an additive first.. molyslip/molybdenum or whatever...

Good luck ...

May 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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Engine knocks when running.


Manual transmission ?? Noise coming from Engine ?? Transmission ?? These rigs are notorious for crankshaft main bearing issues.....Does the engine crankshaft have excessive end play ??

Mar 26, 2014 | 1992 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Renault scenic knocking


Well,
There could be a few causes. The rap really could be the bottom end, or number 3 cylinder, or piston slap (when cold), a belt-driven component or cam drive components or even a nerfed valve. The best way to find out is to listen, but I illustrated the Timing Light Trick first if your ears aren't trained (and while you are hooking up that light with the engine running, take the time to listen to it and 'train' your ears to finding out what the heck that noise REALLY could be and what it certainly ISN'T (such as a bubble in the tire thumping the fender, but hey, you are stopped with the car in park while you're hooking up that light, right? (Always work SAFELY).
Here's the breakdown before you declare it's the bottom end:
1) Connect a timing strobe in accordance with the manufacturer instructions to the main secondary coil wire. If you have a coil over plug installation, there may be an adapter you would need to get.
2) In idle, flash the strobe. If the knocking appears to be in time with the timing light, it's the upper half of the engine (cam, tappets, valves, etc.)
3) In idle, flash the strobe. If the knocking appears to be twice that of the strobe, you can conclude it's something in the lower half of the engine. Generally, crank journal main bearings make a worse metallic ringing under load. Connecting rod bearings usually quiet down under load if they're worn as the extra slack is taken up by cylinder pressure.
4) The most accurate test is to use your ears. Listen with a stethoscope all over the engine until you can tell me whether that knock is really a faulty power steering pump bearing, an alternator bearing, the number 3 cylinder or the camshaft. Take the time - you are training your ears to listen to what the engine is telling you.

Of course, if you have gas in the oil, it'll knock. If you did an engine flush, it may knock - all that gunk overloads the filter to the point the bypass opens in the oil pump - you're SOL if that happened. If you're out of oil, it WILL knock. If you changed heads recently and now you have a knock, the most likely cause for that is coolant in the oil; whoever changed the head burped the old one off without draining the coolant from the block. Even a small amount of it running down into the crankcase from that operation will create an acid that will destroy bearing surface material in a very short period of time. Even a complete oil change will not get all the contaminate out of the engine.
Lastly, Stop Leak may turn into Stop Engine - so if you use oil additives like these that can possibly clog the journal oil holes and cause a knock.

Bottom line - do your research, listen to what that mill is telling you, rule out belt driven accessories and oil levels (and condition) and when this knock started. Finally, tell me where that knock is coming from - a belt driven component, number 3 cylinder or the flexplate (auto slush boxes) or the flywheel (gearboxes).

Oct 21, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ive rebuilt the oil pump on my 98 bonneville and the oil pressure is still low and causes my motor to knock


The problem isn't with the oil pump. The oil pumps job is to move oil around the engine. What the problem is, the main and rod bearings are so worn out that it can't create oil pressure anymore. That's why you have a knock in the bottom end of the engine. The tighter the clearances are at the main/rod bearings, the better the oil pressure you'll have. The cam bearings also play a roll in producing oil pressure.

Mar 22, 2013 | 1998 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

Low end knock after major rebuild


So many possibilities. It could be rod bearing, but could also be main bearing end play. If you put a piston in backwards, you get a knock from that as well. Wrist pins tend to make a higher pitched knock. But make sure it is not something simple like a lifter rattle before anything drastic. Listen around with a mechanics stethoscope or length of tubing, to pinpoint source.

Apr 13, 2010 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Engine knocking,1998 safari awd It's the only way to fix bottom end removing the engine or it can be done just taking the oil pan down- Any suggestions thanks Top end was strip and inspected by machin...


sorry to say knocking usually a rod knock--wrist pin-bearings-which means removing engine-also the engine cradle and front end dont let u drop the oil pan to get to the lower end of the crank shaft

Oct 30, 2009 | 1998 GMC Safari

2 Answers

Oil pressure drops when idling and knock from main bearing.


How many miles on it? Could be the oil pump if the oil level is full.

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2 Answers

Noking


a knock from the bottom of the motor is a big end bearing STOP DRIVING, new engine or rebuild required, a knock from the rear of the engine could be loose pressure plate on clutch assembly, that is if it is a manual, STOP DRIVING. a rattle from top end is lifters or rockers but you say its a knock so probably not it. one test to do, remove all drive belts to water pump etc and start if the knocking is still apparent then it is internal and time to consider trade in, rebuild or new engine.

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