Red eyes appear in all my photos how do I eliminate that? Also if I am taking photos outdoors on a snowy day with not much sunlight how can I get good photos?
Red eye is cause by the internal flash being mounted to close to the lens center axes and is a common problem with most all cameras built this way. Many manufactures have attempted to use "red eye" reduction which fires a pre-flash to close the subjects retina before the actual flash for exposure. Does it work in my opinion no it just cause the subject to think "Oh there's the flash the picture has been taken" and they move while the actual pictures is being made. Yet others tried to send a high intensity light in the subjects direction and that wasn't much better. To get around the red eye with a point and shoot camera you need to get the flash away from the camera. It's called "Off Camera" for your camera it would require an optional digital flash that will sync with the camera flash shutter speed mounted to a bracket that holds the flash above the camera at least 4 inches. However in the case of a pocket camera such as what you have, there now comes the problem of how to trigger the optional off camera flash. This can be done but requires a little non intrusive hacking and a piece of aluminum foil. All this extra gear has now pretty much destroyed the concept of a pocket point and shooter but you asked how to eliminate it as well. The U bracket and flash can be obtained through camera accessory manufactures another item you will need is a photo cell slave mounted on the flash which is mounted to the U bracket. T tripper the flash a small piece of reflective foil is taped in front of the flash angling the reflected light towards the photo cell slave. The slave "sees" the flash from the camera and triggers the optional flash. There are no wires involved so in fact this second flash could be mounted on a tripod to the side of the subject just as long as the camera flash is directed toward it. Once you get one optional flash to fire it is possible to connect multiple flash units using slave cells and create a studio lighting effect. You have now taken a point and shoot camera and turned it into a studio camera cool huh? Okay to address your second problem I feel as if I have to tell you what is happening before i explain what to do. Due to the mass amount of snow and possible overcast conditions you camera built in light meter "sees" this as a lot of light and closed down the aperture and or increases shutter speed, which in fact will under expose the scene. To work around this problem you need to switch you camera off any type of auto exposure zone and go to a manual setting. Look at the cameras light meter reading and purposely over expose it in most cases by two stops of light. I know this most likely all appears to complicated BUT, it's not beyond the capacity of your camera.
Dec 26, 2010 |
Canon PowerShot SD750 / IXUS 75 Digital...