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Whirlpool RJE3100N0 stove burner wire broken

My Whirlpool RJE3100N0 stove top back burner is no longer working. I've checked it out and one of the two wires to the plug (that you insert the burner coil into) has disintegrated and needs to be replaced. I'm having problems finding a diagram or solution to this online. It looks as though the wire is bunched to the rest of the wires running to other burners and I can't tell where it goes after that. Help! I need to get this fixed!

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Its real simple. there are two wires going to the recepticle. cut them near the recepticle and replace. go to the parts store. tell them you need a whirlpool burner receptticle. done deal. keep it simple.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

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My whirlpool electric stove not turning on


Make sure it is plugged in and you have power to your house.If everything is dead check your fusebox for blown fuses if you have circuit breakers reset the breaker for the stove by turning it off then back on. If the burners on the top work,but the oven won't you probably have a burned out bake element .To change this turn off power to the stove and unplug remove 2 or 3 screws holding the bake element and remove the wires to the element by loosing the screws on the terminals note sometimes bake elements plug in in this case just unplug. Reverse process to install. Reapply power and test.

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GE Stove tope range not working


If the phenomenon is intermittent, and you get it going and coming as you restart the oven, then it is likely a bad wiring or a bad connection.
Ensure first that the circuit breaker is ok and well in place, then proceed testing wirings.
Check connectors to buners, hobs, and controls panel.
If all wirings and connections are OK, the what reamins is a faulty control panel or a fault on some of the knob controls.

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my whirlpool electric stove top two big buner is not working

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My MSR Pocket Rocket will no longer light. Prior to the complete malfunction, the flame started to become much weaker, and then finally, the burner just would not light. I've removed the rubber o-ring on...


Hi, chances are the jet is clogged - I've experienced this myself on the same stove.

I would leave the rubber o ring alone, the chances of the hole there being blocked are slim, it is more likely to be the outlet jet you can see throught the holes on the riser tube under the burner head.
This tube can be unscrewed - you may need to put something through like a pen for leverage. Once you have done this you can remove the tube and you will see the tiny jet in the top of the brass nut on the knurled base of the stove. Then its simply a matter of finding a thin enough wire or pricker to prod araound in the jet. I have a fine wire brush that works well, although I have only had to do it once in several years.
Put it all back together and you should be back to full power - the whole job takes two minutes tops.
The other thing I did was screw the riser tube back hand tight only - this means I can dismantle and clear the jet when camping if required. It doesnt affect performance or safety. I put a strand of the wire in a blob of blu tak in the plastic case the stove comes with - job done! Hope this helps.

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I have a whirlpool stove and one of the burner doesn't work but the light on switch works. What could be the problem and how can I fix. Help pls.


1.TURN THE POWER OFF TO YOUR STOVE! In most houses, the electric stove is on it's own circuit breaker. If you are in an older home, you're probably lucky you even have a stove...just kidding! If you had your kitchen updated, every electrician should have wired your stove to its own circuit breaker. Shut off the circuit breaker.
2.Remove all the burners and catch plates under them. You are going to lift the top of your stove up. Once you've done that, see what kind of receptacle you have. You'll now have to shop around to find the part. The local appliance store charged us way too much. Lowe's or Home Depot might not have your parts, or they might. Amazon might have your part and if they don't, they will direct you to someone that will. We could have saved half the purchase price if we'd gone there in the first place.
*A quick note* The receptacle is wired to the switches at the front of the stove. They complete the entire circuit, so that is the only thing you need to worry about--from the switch to the receptacle.
After the stove top is lifted, you will find another tray under it. If the wires from the receptacles go under the tray to the "on" switches at the front of
your stove, you'll have to lift this tray up as well. Remove the tray and any other panels you need to in order to get to the switches.
3.Follow the wires, which should be color-coded for that stove top burner, until you find the switch it hooks to. If you have not purchased the parts yet, go ahead and disconnect the wire from the switch and pull the receptacle from it's aluminum cradle. You'll want these parts to take with you to find their replacements.
*note* Your new wire receptacle should consist of the housing for the burner to fit snug into, and two wires that extend from the other end. Electricity works in a circle. If the circle is broken, you have a short and that is where the spark comes from- your electrical current was trying to reach the other side and sparked to get there.
If you do have the parts, compare them to the old ones to make sure they are the same. Nothing worse than spending time on a repair with the wrong parts.
If you have the RIGHT parts, find the correct end of your wires and just slide it over the terminal at the switch. They might be the screw types. Whatever you have, connect it. It does not matter which one went where. As long as you are using the empty wire terminals you just uncovered with the old wires, you are completing the circle.
*Note* I have seen some receptacle kits that do not give you enough wire and require you to splice wires together. Not only is that a bad idea, but does not conform to electrical codes requirements and could result in fire. If the new equipment did not come with long enough wire to reach all the way from receptacle to switch, purchase a longer wire at your local hardware store. For a few pennies more you could be saving your family's lives.
4.Once you have hooked the receptacle ends to the switch harness, tie down the wires alongside the wire bundle until you get to the end.
5.Attach your burner receptacle to the aluminum clamp.
6.Attach your aluminum clamp to the stove top.
7.Screw down all the pieces you removed- anything covering the switches and the bottom tray. Put down your stove top and put in place all the shields and burners. Turn the circuit breaker back on for your stove and try it out!8_10_2012_8_42_55_am.jpg

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Frigidaire Glass Top Stove - Model #FEF668CJ5C The


Check your incoming power for 240 volts and your circuit breaker.
Check the cord where it attaches to the back of the range. If they are OK,look for a loose or broken wire.
There are no fuses in-line with the surface burners.

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1 Answer

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You are looking at approx. $450.

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YOU HAVE A BAD STOVE SWITCH,TAKE THE TOP BACK PANEL OFF STOVE,HOW FIND OUT WHAT COLOR WIRES GO TO THE STOVE LIGHTS,NOW ONE SWITCH AT A TIME REMOVE THOSE WIRES CHECK TO SEE IF LIGHT GOES OUT NOT RECONNECT WIRES AND MOVE ON TO THE NEXT SWITCH UNTIL YOU FIND THE BAD ONE THE REPLACE IT,HOPE THIS HELPS-MIKE

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