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BURNER WILL NOT LITE AFTER THE INITIAL HEAT CYCLE,THE IGNITER COMES ON BUT NO GAS COMES THRU. ALL IHEAR IS A CHATTERING SOUND COMING FROM THE BURNER AREA. THIS IS A KENMORE GAS DRYER, SER.# LGR762OLGO

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If the igniter glows do u see the flame, and then shuts off,
you can have a copule things going there

one you might a block exhaust vent,full of lint, even when it seems like the duct is clear all the way to the outside, you might have some lint inside the unit, try cleaning it by removing the back panel screews, the air duct, and then remove i thinks is 4 or 5 screws from the air shoot, open it an clean the inside, what sometimes happens is that the blockage is there on the duct, the heat is created but won't exit the unit, and it back flows, rising the temp, and the dryer won't turn back on till it cools off

if you clean the ducts an you still have the problem, then i would look at 2 thigs first the coils replace em

an then the gas valve....


goosd luck post some feed back thanks!

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

Testimonial: "VERY GOOD, ANDVERY QUICK RESPONSE. THANK YOU"

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Get FREE Standard Shipping on orders of $100 or more. Details
Range: Gas burner won't spark or ignite A surface burner igniter switch and a spark module activate the spark electrode when a burner is turned to the "Lite" position on a gas range's cooktop. If the surface burner switch, spark module or wiring in that circuit fails, the spark electrode won't work, and as a result the gas burner won't light. If those components work but the electrode won't spark, the problem could be that the spark electrode is coated with spilled food of is bent or broken. In addition, the electrode won't spark or ignite the burner properly if the ceramic insulation sleeve below the tip of the electrode is cracked or broken. If the gas burner isn't lighting, these repairs may help.
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Replace the spark igniter electrode

1396454293470.jpg The spark igniter electrode-also called the surface burner igniter-is an insulated electrode that provides an ignition spark to light a surface gas burner. It sparks and makes a ticking sound when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the spark ignition electrode if it fails to spark or if the ceramic insulation sleeve is cracked or chipped. How to Replace a Spark Igniter Electrode in a Gas Range Find This Part

Replace the surface spark module

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Hi,
Believe it or not your ignitor is probably the problem....
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...

Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

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On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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The gas burners are not igniting when being turned on??? When the dial is turned the gas comes on but the burner does not lite - no clicking sound? Thanks for any help!


Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good "blue" arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

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What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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