Question about Televison & Video

1 Answer

Rca scenium hd52w140 wont power up.... again

Chassis atc311 replaced resitor that blows when the hv splitter goes and put in a new hv splitter and it worked great for the night then my girlfriend was watching tv this morning for about 2 hrs and she said the screen became distorted and the volume acted funny and the screen went im back at square 1 and dont no if the splitter is bad again or what. there is a burn mark on the circuit board under the resistor (i think its#14705) but thats been there even before i got it working again. there is a small spark on the bottom of the board just before that resistor's lead on the flyback side of it. i have a new fly back too but dont want to go to the trouble of putting it in if its not needed plus even if it will help i probably wont be able to tell because the splitter is probably gone. i really cant find any further detailed info or pics or diagrams of this on line. if its car trouble theres hunreds of picures and even sponsered web sites with step by step procedures but ive found nothing like that for this. im sorry for reposting or whatever but i need some answers and hiring someone is out due to lack of money and im pretty handy just need to get an idea of what to check out first and other possibilities that could be an issue. thanks and sorry for the novel

Posted by on

  • 9 more comments 
  • jetedwardz Feb 19, 2008

    this may seem unplausible but right before the location of the arc could i drill a very tiny hole and have the resistor lead closest to the arc go into my new hole and solder it in place so i can bypass the damaged conduit or whatever its called if it doesnt entr the path of another circuit or conduit? im really tring to do all this myself. what is the part number of the circuit board that this and the flyback is on. and what is the name of it. any help is appreciated because im reaching here. thanks

  • jetedwardz Feb 20, 2008

    ok did a lot to this tonight after work, at least it felt lik it cause of all the shopping around i did. i replaced the flyback. what i thought i could do to stop the arcing wont work because it is another circuit that is arcing to the resistor lead's solder joint.the burned old resistor created the thinner circuit to become exposed where the gap between the resistor solder joint is small. i cleaned it up and there is a little valley which i could probably fill with a non conductive material and also cover the little exposure of the other circuit with it too. Any ideas of a liquid i can fill the gap with that is non conductive which will harden(i was thinking of melting a bit of a plastic pen to fill it and cover the top of the other circuits bad spot. So anywys when i unpug the in on the hv splitter the tv stays on and there is no arcing that takes place,but when i reconnect it it arcs and doesnt power up after a few attempts. so this means the splitter is bad again? thanks for your help accordian man and any ideas you have about anything is appreciated.

  • jetedwardz Feb 21, 2008

    thanks for the advice. i didnt have access to the paint so ended up melting a pen and also looked over everything for bad spots and dry solder joints and reinstalled. again works without the flyback hooked up but not when it is (but thats what i figd was going to happen)so good news is the plastic mustve worked because now 2 1\4 watt resistors started cooking so i unplugged it and ordered new splitter from acme along with the cooked resistors so after i put these new parts in hopefully i have a dependable tv. why do you think the 2nd splitter only lasted 1 day? could it have been because of the arcing that was taking place? or the flyback was bad maybe? thanks again

  • jetedwardz Feb 22, 2008

    hi again what is the regulator and where and what does it look like i havent seen anything about it are they expensive? thanks

  • jetedwardz Feb 22, 2008

    sorry accordian man but could you dumb it down a little for me i figure it must be near the house power supply but am not sure what the heat sink is. could you describe what it looks like.again really appreciate all the help youve given to me and i know ive asked quite a bit. thanks

  • jetedwardz Feb 23, 2008

    thanks i am goinjg to just replacw the hv splitter along with the 2 1\4 watt resistors and remove the plastic i applied and use silicone to neutralize the arcing and see if i get it to last awhile. ill be on again to share the outcome. have a good one

  • jetedwardz Feb 25, 2008

    man it went again. new flyback new resistors and new hv splitter(2nd new one in aweek). is the regulator in the section of circuit boards where the plug goes. and do you know what the main circuit board part nmber is and does it come with all the parts like the flyback and everything else. do you know the part number of the regulator. im sorry this is just getting dismal

  • jetedwardz Feb 26, 2008

    ok thanks i did take the back off again and to my surprise it appeared fine. i heard a pop noise when the screen was flickering and then another pop kinda sound when i pressed it on one more time. later when i took the back off i started it up and the screen was black like the splitter thing but the green light stays on for a while longer. while it it on i hear a loud whining sound from the flyback or immediate area. i stupidly splice the thinner wire with the old one comeing from the front of the set. i should of run it to the front and plugged right in. i put a heat shrink over the splice and it was a little loose in places. and when i took the back off the thin flyback wire must have shifted as it was resting on the tall piece of aluminum by the flyback. i moved it away when unplugged but still whines or whatever. thanks for your help and time. oh yea i disconnected the hv spliiter in and the same sounds where present. so i dont think the hv is blown again. i should still probably look at the bottom of it so i know for sure . any ideas also is the regulater known as a voltage regulator because im having probs finding info and is it located on the same pcb as the flyback. Sorry for the grand inquisition

  • jetedwardz Feb 26, 2008

    thanks .so you think i should replace this regulator and flyback again. any idea the part number of the regulator or what i can expect to pay online. also i saw 2 things attached to pieces of metal near the flyback but they did not look like what i was expecting the regulator to look like. 1 looked like a black chip with 3 prongs going into the pcb the other i thought looked similar but didnt get a good look. again thanks

  • jetedwardz Feb 26, 2008

    is there a way to test the caps and\or regulator.also the number on the board associated with the 3 pronged thing is supposed to be a capaitor that commonly goes out with a bad splitter according to an online source. is the regulator sometimes refered to as a capacitor too? unless it was a different 3 pronged black chip shaped piece attached to the metal.thanks again i beginning to feel as though this prob will be corrected soon.

    oh yea the caps are the shoyt vertical tubes right?and associated ones will share similar pcb numbers as the reg and anything else on the same trace?ty

  • jetedwardz Feb 27, 2008

    is the regulator in this pic. it is just a general pic i had of the initial damage.the 3 pronged part i saw would be higher and towards the right. the picture ends below where i think it is located thanks



1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 979 Answers

Sounds as if you'll have to replace the regulator and filter cap for it, at the very least. You may have taken out the flyback again, as they're not very hardy when driven with too much AC bias. The arc that you are calling a spark will have to be addressed also. If you have an intermittent connection at that point, the feedback voltage will be incorrect and you'll have the same scenario on dealing with a dead set once again. Hope this helps....accordianman

Posted on Feb 19, 2008

  • 7 more comments 
  • Michael Borelli Feb 19, 2008

    Any jumpering you do must take into account whether high voltage is present nearby or is other components will be disturbed mechanically or electrically. Barring this, you should be able to make a new location for this part.,,,accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 20, 2008

    I would use a lacquer-based paint to try and stop the arcing. Many shops sell this stuff just for this purpose...accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 22, 2008

    Plastic is not the ideal insulator when it comes to high voltage supppresion. I can only guess that that is what you used when you said that you had melted a pen to use that plastic. You just may have to start from scratch, as the arcing is not doing any of the components any good at all. Could also be a bad regulator at this point too...accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 22, 2008

    The regulator is typically located on a heatsink close to the secondary of the power supply...accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 23, 2008

    The heatsink is a chunk of aluminum and the device is typically screwed to it, although I have seen them "sandwiched" between two pieces of the same type metal....accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 25, 2008

    Okay, I've narrowed this down to 2 likely culprits. You have one of two things happenings here. One is a bad feedback resistor that's tied to the regulator bias or base that's changing value due to heat/current, or the regulator is doing the same trick. Remember too, that if the reg has been "slammed' with current due to other failures, that this is usually the scenario when you have a "chain failure"...accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 26, 2008

    It is indeed called the voltage reg and is located very near the flyback and line in on the set....accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 26, 2008

    Your 3-pronged device is indeed the reg, and the bypass caps are very near. One or more of those caps could be damaged, too. Lastly, don't forget those resistors. Haven't shopped online for parts, so I really don't know prices that way. The reg should be about 14-25 bucks retail, and passive/reactive components should be negligible......accordianman

  • Michael Borelli Feb 27, 2008

    By the time you thoroughly test those resistors, caps and the reg, you could have taken a nice vacation, as you would not be worrying that you may have missed something. By all means, replace them and help stop the worry!...accordianman



1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

I need the schematics of the control module

The model listed is an older set----usually if it HAS the splitter it is up front----but most there is not one as it is part of the high voltage transformer----look on the label on the rear where model number is for a Chassis number, that will tell me instantly if a splitter exists or not PTK-------

Nov 05, 2012 | RCA P52926 52" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

CRT Question

Maybe, be safe. Run a wire with an alligator clip from the screwdriver shaft to the chassis ground while popping the anode off.

Jul 25, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

After replacing hv splitter and focus block and about four hours of adjusting the convergence board in the front I finally got a great picture, but now i notice when you have a title like on my dtv...

Is this set a RCA ? You may want to double check the seating of the Anode Lead from the HV Transformer to the HV Slitter, If pulled out
a little arching will occur with-in the Bock and cause premature failure if not corrected. Also make sure that all ground connctions are made from the CRTS to the HV Block if there are any.
Hope this Helps,

Jun 20, 2009 | Televison & Video

3 Answers

RCA projection P46732BA no power and arcing sound

The High Voltage Splitter is the cause of this and replacing it should fix the problem. Their should not be a shock hazard once power is diconnected. But just incase, ground each of the anode leads from the crts to ground. That should take care of any HV charge from the CRTS. Do make a note of which wire went went where, that is important. When you get the new HV Splitter, you will need to transfer the small board that is mounted on the old Splitter. Again, be aware of where the wires hook up to it and you will be fine.
Hope this helps,

Jun 18, 2009 | RCA P46921 46" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

I change module 267147r only works for 1 min

Most likely the modules you put in also blew again.

The reason is that there is a fault in another section of the set. For an example, the main power supply may also be defective. If its output voltages are not in spec damage will be done.

Many times when there are failures it is very important also locate the cause of the failure. This type of diagnostics can be involved and will require experience with a solid knowledge of the TV set, the proper test equipment, tools, and the service manuals.

The authorized service center is equiped, and has properly trained technicians that can service your set.

Jerry G.

Sep 05, 2008 | RCA HD56W58 56" TV

1 Answer

Was working fine for 6 years until it just sparks at the HV Splitter Box. Is it a bad splitter box? and if so where can I get a new one?


Mar 22, 2008 | GE 46GW945 46" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

ProScan wont turn on

PS52690 52" projection TV (CTC188 series) that won't power up. From what I have read here and other places, the most common cause of this is the HV splitter. Actually, when the unit was 3 years old, the HV splitter went out and had to be replaced but it was under warranty at the time. I have found that the part I need is 205064 and runs around $40-$70
A post in another thread said that you could test to see if the HV splitter is really the problem by disconnecting the HV anode (big red wire) from the flyback (not the splitter since that will arc), plug the TV in, power it up, and if the power stays on and you hear sound, replace the HV splitter to fix the problem.

Dec 05, 2007 | Televison & Video

1 Answer


Check first R14705 to see if burnt! If so then HV Trans is bad. Also if you need schematic try

Oct 08, 2007 | RCA HD52W140 52" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Wire diagram for splitter

On the 205064 hv splitter with the splitter mounted in the set,left to right, hv transformer,red tube,green tube,blue tube,plug on right side goes to screen asy,the black wires plug on the left side of splitter,which are grounds.

Jul 28, 2007 | RCA P52771AT 52" Rear Projection...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Televison & Video Logo

Related Topics:

461 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Televison & Video Experts

The Knight
The Knight

Level 3 Expert

75025 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17130 Answers

Cindy Wells

Level 3 Expert

5304 Answers

Are you a Televison and Video Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides