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I have a geodesic dome. Triangles (2by 6 wood) sheetrocked. The tapers did a lousy job. It looks like they did not put enough mud under the tape. I know that I have to remove the tape. How should I repair it. What tape should I use. It has a 135 degree angle around the triangles. what kind of mud should I use.

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Hello. With out seeing it, you may be correct about having to remove the tape but more commonly the repair is to leave the tape there, knock down any high spots with a sander and then build up two or three more layers of mud feathering each one out about three inches further than the last using larger and larger knives.
1. JOINT COMPOUND:
Actually you need to add water to either type of compound, the premix should be thinned with water to a proper working consistency, depending on what you are doing with it.

I use quick set for the first coat on **** joints and outside corners because of it sets harder than the premixed types. We also use it for prefilling any gaps in the sheets. Setting type compound also can be sanded and recoated within as little as 15 mins, so we also use it for small repair work or patching.

When you get into the premixed types of compounds there are 3 basic types. All-Purpose, Light, & Topping Mix.

The manufacturer's and the industry specs call for All-Purpose to be used for taping, light is used for subsequent fill & finish coats. Topping Mix is strictly for final finish & texture coats.

TAPE
Regular old fashioned paper tape works as well as any.
THEN FOR TECHNIQUES:
http://www.drywallinfo.com/tapingjoints.html
Regards, Joe

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

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Use setting type compound for filling over screws. This compound doesn't shrink and does a better job of covering them up. Light weight compound is fine but is soft. It does shrink as it dries so you'll need maybe 3 or 4 coats to get the dimple area covered. I use setting compounds on all my second coats for this reason. This applies to tapered seams, end or surface joints and corners. You want to tape the drywall with all purpose compound that does shrink so it pulls the tape tight when dry. I use the TapeBuddy taping tools for a tight, no blister seam. Let this dry and second coat with the setting type compound and your finishing project will go much faster.

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If for some reason A hole becomes appearent and a Man or women have to fix it.......... Mud around The hole with a light coat of drywall compound and then put the screem mesh drywall tape in plece.Let it set.Remember to cover the hole diamenter with tape and mud in all edges to be uniform. Let set till dry and white and smoothly apply another coat without leaving streaks of mud. Last coat..........put a little water in a ice-cream tub or something of this nature and add drywall compound to make something to the nature of a pancake batter and feather out the edgesof your best mud job that you ever did, let dry and lightly wash down with sand-paper and get ultiment resaults every time..Prime and paint.

on Aug 21, 2010 | Audio Players & Recorders

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How to repatch small sheetrock holes in walls


Well here is a tip that im shure you will enjoy!
How to patch a hole in your wall !
Don,t worry about cutting from stud to stud so you have something to screw too, just cut out a piece of sheetrock alittle larger then your hole ,
Then take your cut sheetrock piece and put it over the hole!
Then take a pencil and trace the cut sheetrock over the hole
Then cut out the hole to the size of the traced piece of sheetrock

OK here comes the fun part: Take 2 larger wooden paint mixing sticks (you can get them at any paint store , sherwin williams,ben moore, home,depot , sears, wallmart,lowes..you get the idea! and there always free so stock up for future holes,

Now take one stick and put it into the hole so that both top and bottom of the stick are equal lengths so that you can put 1 screw countersunk on both ends from the wall side ...what that screw is doing is making a secur backing for you to screw your cut piece of sheetrock to! ...but one is not enough so get that 2nd paint stick out and stick that also behind the wall and screw it from outside at top and bottom ...now your ready to screw that piece of sheetrock to the painsticks ..after thats done just tape and spackle ...once you try this you will always use this technique ,,GUARANTEED!..good luck and happy repairs, glenn

on May 31, 2010 | Tools & Hardware - Others

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Mar 06, 2014 | Drywall

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How do I repair a large hole in my drywalled wall in my living room that is right beside the door frame?


If you live near a Home Depot or Lowes they sell partial sheets of drywall. Cut a square slightly larger than the damaged area from the new drywall. Trace this around the damaged area and then cut out the damaged area with a key hole saw or sawzaw or if you don't have those just your utility knife. You can probably buy all the tools and materials for a lot less than hiring someone. Since you said the hole is next to a door you shouldn't have to worry about electrical wires, but just in case, take a flashlight and look into the hole before you cut to make sure. Now you should have a hole the size and shape of the new piece you cut. The area against the door is against studs and you'll have to just keep cutting with your knife until you get through to the wood. Now, on the other side of the hole across from the door take a piece of scrap wood and put it inside the hole and press it against the inside of the wall so half the scrap wood is behind the wall and the other half is exposed in the hole. While you're holding the scrap wood you'll need to screw 1 1/4" drywall screws through the existing drywall and into the scrap wood. The scrap wood should now be tight against the back of the drywall and partially exposed to resemble the stud on the other side by the door jamb. Now you have backing for your patch. Place the patch you cut earlier in the hole and screw it in place. A screw gun or drill with #2 philips head screw tip will make this job easier. The screws should be counter sunk just slightly so the heads don't rip the paper. If you do rip the paper you'll need to put in another screw near that one or else you'll have problems later, especially near a door. Now finish the hole with joint compound. You can buy this at most hardware stores in a one gallon bucket. You'll need a role of drywall tape as well. I recommend the fiberglass mesh tape for ease. Also you'll need a taping 6" taping knife and a tray.
Fill the joint compound tray half way and mix it around with your knife until smooth. Take the fiberglass tape and stick it to the wall around the patch to cover where you cut. Spread a thick layer of joint compound over the fiberglass tape and then gently wipe it all off with one or two strokes. Repeat this until all the tape is covered with a thin layer of "mud" (joint compound). Make sure all the screw holes get filled too. Let this dry for several hours, maybe overnight. Put the excess mud back in the bucket and clean your tools. When the first coat is dry take your 6" taping knife and scrape away any blobs of mud that you left behind from the first coat and then apply a second coat. You may need a third coat. Sand the joint compound until smooth tapering the edges to the paper. Again, be careful not to sand the paper too much, you don't want to go through. If you have smooth walls, you're in luck, now just paint. If you have textured walls then you have more work. you can get spray texture in an aerosol can at the hardware store. Read the instructions on the can and practice on the left over drywall from your patch. Note: you'll never make a perfect match with this aerosol texture but you can get it close. The only way to get a perfect match is to use a compressor and and special spray gun for joint compound and it takes some practice. You can rent these things in most towns if you're very particular. Good luck

Aug 09, 2013 | Tools & Hardware - Others

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Patching a hole in drywall/sheetrock


The best way to patch a hole when you don't have backing material is as follows:

Step 1: Cut the hole out square with a keyhole saw or utility knife:
www.all-wall.com/s.nl/sc.11/.f?search=keyhole+saw

Step 2: Cut a piece of drywall, (the same thickness as the wall that you are working on), to fit fairly tightly into square hole. (HINT: You don't want the patch to fit so tight that it breaks the corners when you try to put it in.) If done properly, this patch will not want to stay in the hole by itself. You must leave 1/32nd of an inch all the way around the patch. Once the patch has been properly fitted, you are now ready to start taping it in.

Step 3: Put the patch face down on the floor or table so that you can easily work on it. Using drywall mud/compound & the 5" knife, lightly mud the back side of the patch (www.all-wall.com/Categories/Joint-Knives/Hyde-Stainless-Hammer-Head). Place a piece of drywall tape over the patch, allowing it to hang over the edge of the patch about 1 1/2" on the top/bottom of the patch (paper tape flaps).(www.tooldistrict.com/2inx500ftpaperjointtapepn500bypermaglas-mesh.aspx) Holding the tape firmly against the patch, wipe down the tape with the 5" knife.

Step 4: Once the piece of tape is wiped down, you are now ready to apply mud to the section of wall where the paper tape flaps will be laying. Place the patch over the hole, tapping it into place until the patch is laying flat on the wall. Holding your fingers on the seams of the patch, wipe down the first paper flap, and then the other. (HINT: Always wipe down the top flap first, then the bottom flap. Make sure the patch is flush with the wall, or recessed slightly. If the patch is sticking out from the wall even a little bit, it will be very difficult to hide!)

Step 5: Now that the patch is in, mud the horizontal seams in, paper tape, and wipe down. Repeat the process for the vertical seams. (NOTE: You may use mesh tape on these seams if you wish because mesh is a little thinner than the paper tape; making it a little easier to cover on the next two coats. Don't make a special purchase if you don't already have some laying around, it's not worth it. ( www.all-wall.com/Categories/Fiberglass-Mesh-Drywall-Tape/Thin-Drywall-Mesh-Tape )Let this dry for 12 hours before coating again.

Step 6: For the next coat you will need a 10 " broad knife (www.all-wall.com/Categories/Taping-Knives-Stainless-Steel/Hyde-Maxxgrip-Extruded-Back) Apply mud to the patch, covering the tape from the previous application.You will need to leave more mud around the outside of the patch; not too much on top of the tape. It is already going to be a little high on top of the tape so you are basically creating an optical illusion by building up around the patch. Let this coat dry 24 hours.

Step 7: If the 2nd coat was done properly, then putting a finish coat, (3rd and final coat), won't be a problem. This coat is just to fill in any low spots that you weren't able to get completely full the last coat. And if you did get it full the last time, congrats, then it is just a skim coat to fill in any air bubbles that may exist. (NOTE: Whenever patching over an already painted wall, the drywall mud/compound will bubble. This is normal. After 2nd coat of mud drys, scrape off the air bubbles before applying the next coat.) Let this coat dry for 12-24 hours

Step 8: Now the fun part begins: Use a sanding sponge or a sanding pole to sand the patch off, (http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/A000_Dustless_Sanding_20.php). Then it is ready for paint!!

Good Luck!

If you should have any questions about"Drywall Finishing/Patching", or know someone who does, put your questions to Category:"Tools- Building & Power-HAND TOOLS" at FixYa.com

I will do my best to answer your questions about drywall finishing, but as you can see, just a simple patch is very involved. However, it would be best if we could speak on the PHONE or do a live CHAT. I can answer any question you have if it involves getting a wall ready for paint!

Jim

Key Words: Drywall/Sheetrock/Gypsum Wallboard, Patching, Texturing, Speckling, & Paper Tape

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1 Answer

How do you fix hole in sheetrock


Little holes... Spackle. Holes the size of a door knob, go to a "big box store" they have a repair kit, that makes things easy. But if it is a larger hole you will need to cut a matching piece of sheetrock to fit. Then tape and spackle and sand and repaint. If the hole is larger enough but is not big enough to involve one of the studs, then the "big box store" has some clips that will hold a piece of sheetrock suspended between the good and bad portions of the wall.

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How dom i remove shelves that were put up with wood glue without taking half the wall with it?


If wood glue is adhered to a painted surface, and the paint is adhered to sheetrock ... you are not facing good news.

I painted and did sheetrock for years.
Here's how I'd handle the problem.

Use sharp utility knife and cut through the sheetrock paper around object that is glued.
Once the paper is cut, you can tear off glued item and it will remove as little of the wall as possible.

Next, but some sheetrock mud.
But not your usual type.
Get the powered bag that you mix with water.
They make 15 minute set up, and 45 minute, etc.
Don't buy paper drywall tape for this job.
Buy the fiberglass tape that looks like a screen.
Clean up you wall so it's smooth.
Use knife to cut a taper edge around each broken area of sheetrok >>> this will keep the edges down so they're not sticking up
Mix up the drywall mud so its like toothpaste.
Apply mud into wall damage.
Here's the trick ... do not build it up so you have to sand it off.
Keep it low.
Put the mud on the wall.
Push the tape into the mud.
It won't be perfect.
Smooth as much as possible using your 6" drywall knife.
Do the project in stages.
Let it dry.
Take your 6" mud knife and use it like a spatula to scrape down the high points.
Keep it low so you're not sanding.
Mix more mud.
Apply a THIN coat over repair.
Let it dry.
Scrape it again with the mud knife.

Bring a table lamp over to where you're working.
Put the table lamp up close to the wall so the light casts across the repair.
The light will let you see the high and low points in the repair
Keep floating mud in very THIN coats until the wall is smooth
Put a coat of paint over repair.
Use the light again to look for dips and weaves in the surface.
Smooth it out with the mud
Paint the wall.

If you get stuck in the project, answer back and I'll give words of encouragement.

Oct 25, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

The wall has a big hole its a sheetrod wall but i want repair the hole instead of remving the sheetrod.


square up the hole screw some wood to the back of the sheetrock where you can attach a new piece of rock all along the seams be sure to set the heads of the screws slightly mud the seams take a sheet rock knife and press the tape into the mud remove air bubbles let dry apply second coat let dry sand smooth not down to tape apply third coat let dry sand and paint

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you need to seat it properly. It is probably a taper shank and socket, if so clean both parts with something like brake clean or similar dry off with a paper towel, fully retract the jaws, move table out of the way and find a block of wood. put taper into socket and place wood under chuck and strike the wood with a hammer a couple times to seat this, if other than that let me know and I will find something else, I would also need the brand and model number

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