Question about House Brand Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have several of these heaters in my rent houses and love them. The most problem I have is not being able to ignite the pilot with the user control igniter. Remove the screws that hold the front cover in place along with the front cover. Hold the pilot control down and ignite with a lighter. Keep the pilot engaged until thermocouple is warm enough to keep pilot gas flowing. If it will light this way then you need to blow out the pilot orifice. It seems that every year I have to go in after the summer season when the heater is off and clean the pilot/orifice lines with high pressure air. I believe spiders/bugs/dust block pilot orifice when it is not in use. You can also tell that orifice is blocked when you don't get a good blue pilot flame with pressure behind it allowing the flame to submerse the thermocouple. If the the thermocouple is not getting enought heat it will turn pilot gas off for safety reasons.
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
I had the same problem and fixed it with a small piece of Aluminum foil, an adjustable wrench, and a #2 screwdriver... If you're "handy", this is an easy 30 minute fix. I included a picture that may help you visualize the "fix" before attempting. In short, I'm not certain what happened or why/how it broke, but if you remove the valve/manifold you can blow air into the gas inlet (with your mouth) and adjust the knob and you will see that only when it's all the way pushed down you can blow air through the valve, otherwise n air/gas can not get through. Thats why the pilot will light, and when you let the knob out the flame goes out. If that is your problem, this fix will work. After I put the foil (explained below) to extend the brass pushrod that allows gas to enter the manifold, it worked as expected allowing air/gas to enter only when on "light" and through the LO to High sweep.
Step 1) Shut off gas and remove tank.
Step 2) Remove the black gas On/Off knob (pulls off)
Step 3) Remove the three on thumb screws inside the tank storage area to allow the entire top/heater mesh to slide down (like intended to store it, or how it came shipped in the box). Sliding this down will expose the bracket the manifold/valve mounts to.
Step 4) Remove the spring clip and washers from the stem on the valve. Remember the order, and dont lose any parts as this works your igniter. (I usually take a picture with my phone on these types of things, so I can recall how they went.)
Step 5) Carefully remove all the gas lines from the valve and the grounding wire at the rear of the manifold.
Step 6) Remove the two small Phillips screws that hold the valve to the bracket.
Step 7) Remove the valve from the unit.
Step 8) Remove the two small #2 Phillips screws that hold the aluminum and the brass parts together on the valve.
Step 9) Give a slight tug and the two pieces will come apart easily. A small aluminum part may fall out; this is okay as it only goes in one way.
Step 10) Take a small piece of aluminum foil 1 1/2 inches by 7 inches or so, and wadd it tight into a ball. I used pliers to get it tight and small (bigger than BB, but smaller than the end of a pencil eraser) You will see that it needs to go inside the channel where the brass stem will slide in and out of the "slotted" tube on the stem.
Step 11) Put it back together and try the "blow test" again to see if the aluminum ball was the right size to make it work ...again. I had to do this a few times to get the right size "extension". Also, be sure to blow into the "main" gas inlet and adjust the gas control knob through the push in and "light" the pilot mode all through the Hi/Lo sweep.
Reverse your steps and give it a try. Mine lights every time and works perfect. ...actually better than new, as it was always a task to light.
Hope this was helpful, as this was my first post...
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
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