My Evolve chews up the first half inch of every seam I try to sew. All fabrics are affected, and the fabric jams up and often I have to manually pull it out. Then the rest of the seam is fine. Really ruins the work - any thoughts? I have cleaned it, changed needles, etc.
I had this problem. The trouble I was having was that in order to begin serging with the needle in the fabric was very awkward, there was bunching and then lumping and chewing up. So, now I trim into the fashion fabric with scissors, ALONG the EXACT line I will be following with the knife for about 1/2 inch, so that when I place the fabric under the foot, I can sink the needle and turn the handwheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE (!) for two or three turns. This solves the problem. To explain it another way, begin the trimming you want the knife to do with scissors just a little bit, place your fabric with the cut edge butted right to the knife edge, lower the foot, sink the needle and hand-turn for two or three stitches before putting your foot on the pedal. I can HIGHLY recommend a repeat read of your manual, I read and re-read mine before I tried sewing. This is a very complex machine.
Evolve is a serger and can't sew backwards. Start on a scrap and then onto fasion material and then cut off scrap. You'll have to use fray check where cut or it'll pull out. I'd ask your dealer. It shouldn't do this. Do you start w/ a thread chain? You have to except for the chain or cover stitch where you have to start on material.
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try these suggestions
Reduce the stitch length to zero. The machine will stitch in place and form a locked stitch
1) rotate the material and sew over the same stitching. Leave the needle down in the work and raise the presser foot, then turn the fabric around.
2) decrease the stitch length to very small for a few stitches
3) hold the fabric and prevent it from feeding at the beginning and end of a seam, which makes very short stitches
4) stitch about 1/2", raise the needle and presser foot, return the fabric to the beginning position and stitch over the first half inch of seam again. Do the same at the end
most Sergers have a blade adjustment that allows you to move the blade closer to the sewing plate as well as further away sounds like yours may be to close to plate. Open the door to the underside of your sewing machine; their should be a round knob at the base of the blade are. Turn the blade until it moves away from the sewing plate. test and see if you have adjusted it enough so as not to cut your stitching off. hope this helps
If the needle jams when sewing over thick items, it may be you have a dull needle? Not all machines can hem blue jean material without a hand to help the flywheel around, through the doubled over seams.
Additionally, when sewing the basic two pieces into one piece, start with the presser foot ON the fabric about a half inch sewing in reverse first, backing up to the fabrics edge and then proceeding forward through your fabric.
Fabrics too heavy or too light, are the common issues with home and commercial sewing machines.Knowing your machine and how to operate it; will get you through these "issues" when sewing.
Cheers, Happy New Year!
San Diego, CA
You have a "birds nest" of thread in the bobbin case. work the flywheel back and fourth until you get the needle to raise. Then you will need to cut bobbin thread under fabric before you can remove fabric.
Make sure you hold thread in back of the lowered presser foot when you begin stitching, and that the needle is piercing the fabric so that the fabric isn't slipping down into the feed dogs (under needle plate area).Hope this helps you out,alexlefebvre.Jimmy
I am assuming this is a simple stretch waist band with elastic about 2cm wide attached to a skirt or trousers. You need to measure your wist and cut elastic that length plus 2cm. Then join the two ends by overlapping them 2cm and zig zagging the elastic together with regular sewing machine. Now mark the elastic in quarters, ie hold it flat with the join in the middle and mark each edge with chalk or a fabric removable marker. Then put the marks together and mark the edges again so you have 4 marks equally spaced. Now do this for your garment too. It may be bigger in back so mark front and back, then half this to find the side quarters. Put elastic on inside of garment against raw edge and pin the quarter marks on elastic and garment together. Set up overlocker for 4 thread wide seam. Test seam and adjust tensions if necessary. Now you need to serge the edge of the fabric and elastic together, trimming the fabric but not cutting the elastic and stretch the elastic to fit the garment as you stitch. Elastic on top, fabric right side down underneath. Take out pins before you get near them! Start by lifting the front of the presser foot with your finger and placing fabric and elastic under, then start stitching on and straighten up once the seam is onto the elastic. Dont lift the pressure foot, you just stitch, stop, stretch the elastic to the fullness of the fabric, hold it and seam forward a few inches, then stop and repeat the process. Once right round go over your starting point, then turn and serge off the fabric edge and chain off. Cut, pull the chain to pull it flat and tie a hald hitch in it right up close to fabric. Now turn the elastic band to the inside of the garment. You need to secure it. Usually a straight stitch just onto the lower edge of the elastic with sewing machine from outside.
Try using a double strip of tissue paper 1 1/2 x5/8 inch placing it about 3/4 inch under edge of fabric and middle of seam allowance. Start stitching on the tissue paper and continue onto the fabric to the end of seam. After that remove the tissue. You can also hold both threads and slightly pull them when you first begin the seam to help them reach the back feed dogs.