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Pilot light comes on but heat does not come on.

Pilot light comes on but heat elements do not ignite/flame and hence no heat. Furnace contains a 2 year old new 36C84 gas valve with added resister board (installed with thought that well gas psi was not high enough). Thank you. (It's cold in Akron, Ohio!)

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You will need to take out the ignitor, and if it has some black carbon build up you can take a piece of sand paper and remove the carbon until the ignitor is shiny, replace the ignitor and then give it a try.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

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PILOT LIGHT COMES ON BUT WHEN YOU TURN THE KNOB TO ON IT DOES NOT LIGHT UP THE CIRCLE PLATE IN THE HEATER. IT JUMPS AND THE FIRE COMES OUT THEN IT GOES OUT.


I'm not sure what unit you are troubleshooting but if the main burner is igniting and that main burner flame is blowing out the pilot flame, it's possible the pilot flame orifice needs to be cleaned. The orifice can get stopped up and produce a weak pilot. And I've seen a pilot lite, but be blown out by the combustion of the main burner igniting. Now you stated IT JUMPS. If you mean the pilot flame jumps, as if it gets large then weak and goes out, then the gas valve is giving you trouble and may need to be replaced.

Mar 09, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heater doesn't come on?


The electronic ignition system in a gas furnace is a modern development that allows more reliable performance than standing pilot furnaces, provides energy savings and contributes to better furnace efficiency (AFUE). With a standing pilot, found most commonly on older low efficiency furnaces (55% to 65% AFUE is not uncommon), a small gas flame is always burning and is known in the lexicon of American home repair as a "pilot light". The problem with this type of "analog" ignition is that it wastes energy by constantly burning gas and can sometimes be unreliable. These issues have led to the development of electronic ignition systems for mid to high efficiency furnaces that exceed the U.S. government's established minimum AFUE rating of 78%. The electronic ignition occurs typically in one of two ways:
  • Intermittent Pilot, or
  • Hot Surface Ignition The intermittent pilot system uses an electronically controlled high voltage electrical spark to ignite the gas pilot and then subsequently the main burners, when the thermostat calls for heat.
    The hot surface ignition system uses an electronically controlled resistance heating element not unlike a light bulb filament (and shown in the photo above), to ignite the gas burner.
    It is important to understand some of the other components of a modern furnace that you will encounter depending on the type of high efficiency furnace you have. Why? Because they can also come into play in repairing an electronic ignition furnace when it won't run properly. Let's take a quick review of the types of furnace designs and components found in high efficiency furnaces using electronic ignition.
  • Nov 14, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

    1 Answer

    I have a heil furnace ac is working heat wont come on?


    Check the white wire is making contact well in the t-stat.
    Is it gas heat or electric/heatpump
    If gas then check your flame ignition system to determine if it is lighting a pilot or has a hot surface type glow element. If it does not sense the flame it will refuse to run gas for heat and or check that the electric enducer fan is comeing on before the pilot even attempts to light. It must run to prove a draft induction exist for the furnace baffles before it will attempt to start heat.
    If it is a heat pump then it should fail to heat side on the reversing valve and not really need to be checked since your AC works. The call for AC has reversed the valve to even get cooling. So it is going to be heat strips failing or sequensers failing maybe even low refrigerant on a heat pump system. I know this is all a bunch to digest remember it is usually electrical and just a loose wire! So start from there and T-stats do go bad just because they can!

    Oct 08, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

    1 Answer

    Burners not burning, pilot light is off. How do I start the pilot light?


    There is no pilot on this unit. It is electronic ignition.

    On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

    What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

    Mar 29, 2010 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

    1 Answer

    Furnace cuts off before reaching set temp.


    You can make sure it is not the thermostat by crossing or jumping the R and W terminals (or associated wires) together. This will keep the furnace calling for heat. As it is approaching set temperature, get in front of the furnace and inspect the air filter to make sure it is clean, watch the control module for any error codes that may be turning off the system prematurely.

    On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

    What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

    Mar 07, 2010 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

    1 Answer

    Furnace does not come hot surface ignitor does not come on


    On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

    What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

    Dec 29, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

    2 Answers

    FURNACE COMES ON AND SHUTS DOWN WITHIN 15 SECONDS


    On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

    What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control). When all else fails, check the ground connection for corrosion.

    Nov 23, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

    1 Answer

    Amana furnace main burner intermitent


    Sounds like dirty flame sensor. You can either clean it orreplace it.

    Apr 21, 2009 | Honeywell Power Humidifier: Furnace...

    1 Answer

    Lighting the pilot light


    The steps involved can vary slightly depending on your furnace model and pilot valve type, so if possible try and find the instructions inside the furnace door cover or in the instruction manual. This is for a gas fired furnace, but applies to any gas-fueled appliance including water heater. Two of the most common types of pilot valve body assemblies either have a red reset button and a gas valve or no reset button and a valve knob that can be depressed. But whichever type you've got, if you have an older model furnace with a standing pilot (flame is lit all the time) then this is the basic procedure.
    • Turn you thermostat to 80 degrees or to a setting that will demand heat. Make sure the thermostat is in "Heat" mode.
    • Go to the furnace and find the pilot valve. The pilot valve body is a box shaped device into which the main gas line will run and is located near the gas burners. It will usually have a gas **** or valve knob that reads "On, "Pilot" and "Off." Locate this gas **** or knob.
    • Turn the knob or gas **** to the "Off" position and wait about 3 minutes for any residual gas to clear away.
    • Find the pilot. It's located near the gas burner tube assembly in the furnace.
    • Get your match or lighter ready. Sometimes the pilot is hard to reach. If possible, try and use a long fireplace match when you light it. If you don't have a fireplace match then a butane BBQ grill lighter works well too. If you don't have that, then you can fasten a match to the end of a stick when you light the pilot
    • If you have a pilot with a red Reset button, turn the gas valve from "Off," to "Pilot."
    • If you have a pilot with no red button, turn the knob from "Off" to "Pilot."
    • Place the lit match or ignited lighter tip at the pilot and depress and hold the button or depress the knob as appropriate. Depress the button or knob for about 30 seconds. This maintains gas flow to the pilot until the thermocouple gets hot enough to open the main gas valve.
    • Once the pilot stays lit, slowly release the button or knob and turn the gas **** or knob from the "Pilot" position to the "On" position. This will ignite the burners and keep the flow of gas supplied as required for the burners as called for by the thermostat.
    • If the burners fail to ignite then it may be because the thermocouple did not get hot enough to open the gas valve. Wait a few minutes and then repeat the above procedure. This time hold the red reset button or depress the knob for about 45-60 seconds.
    • Once the main furnace burners ignite, adjust the thermostat to the desired setting.
    • If you've followed the previous steps on lighting the pilot and it still does not light after, or will not stay lit, then you probably have a problem with the thermocouple or an adjustment needs to be made to the pilot. You'll need a furnace service technician to replace or repair these parts. You may find that the pilot lights, but it is an anemic looking flame. That's a different problem we'll look at in the next section.
    • If the pilot lights but the flame is a weak yellow flame, it will not get hot enough to heat the thermocouple to its set point allowing the gas valve to open.
      A natural gas flame should be a bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip. The flame should be strong enough to hit the thermocouple tip about 1/2 inch from the tip end. If the flame is weak or shaky looking, check to see that a breeze or draft is not blowing on it. Adjusting the Flame
      There is usually a small screw on the pilot valve body that will adjust the flame. You may have to refer to the manufacturer's instructions to find the screw. Turn the screw as needed to adjust the flame throw. Yellow Flame
      A yellow flame is caused by lack of air and incomplete combustion. It can be caused by a dirty pilot tube tip. Split Flame
      This is caused by dirt in the pilot tube. Take a needle or small nail and gently clean the tube. Flickering or Wavering Flame
      A flame that flickers is usually caused by a draft.
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    Feb 18, 2009 | Water Heaters

    1 Answer

    Furnace shut off after 3 time flame from pilot


    Sounds like you may have a weak or bad flame sensor. If the circuit board does not sense a good flame it will not light the burners. Also if your furnace is 5 yrs or newer it should give you a fault on circuit board in the form of a blinking or a code itself.

    Feb 15, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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