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Inside the oven. There are usually 3 fuses. 2 are on the board, while one is on a wire enclosed in a plastic twist to open capsule. The fuses in a microwave oven is a little bit specialized. Be sure to get the proper replacement part.
The "negative temperature coeffecient" (NTC) thermistor was left unplugged after reassembly or it is defective.
It is the hood thermistor, and should be plugged into connector P4 on the circuit board.
I think it should be at the bottom of the board, on a little tongue-like protrusion, as shown in the attached photo.
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you don't find yours,
or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can
download it here (just enter your model
You can also find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number from the tag on the oven here.
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
Hi Adam, Built in over the range? The models change so rapidly unless it is less than a year old there probably wont be an identical replacement, Fortunately the mounting brackets remain close if you stay in the same brand. Whirlpools can be purchased at almost any retailer like Lowe's, Sears, BestBuy etc. Measure the the original and look for one that fits that dimension. Eric
It's very easy to do if you can get the circuit board. Take the two screws out of the plastic fan grill and pop it off. There should be one screw above the control panel. Take that off and the panel should pop off by slightly pushing up. Unhook all the wires and unscrew the board. Put the new board in and your done.
FIRST ,,MICROWAVE OVENS ARE REALLY SAFTY MINDED AND THATS A GOOD THING....THERE ARE USUALLY THREE DOOR SWITHCES NEXT THE KEYBOARD--THE ONE ON TOP AND THE ONE ON BOTTOM ARE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SWITCHES,,YOUR PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE ONE OF THESE IS NOT MAKING CONNECTION..YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO PRESS 'DOWN" WITH A LITTLE PRESSURE ON THE DOOR AFTER CLOSING TO SEE IF THE FAN WILL START,,,IF YOU NOTICE --THERE ARE 2 LATCHES(HOOKS) COMING OUT OF THE DOOR,,WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED,THOSE LATCHES ARE SPRING LOADED AND MAKE CONTACT ON THOSE SAFTY SWITCHES....THIS IS NOT A CUSTOMER REPAIR--MICRO'S ARE JUST TO DANGEROUS WHEN YOU TAKE THE COVER OFF--IF THIS DOES BRING THE FAN BACK ON--YOU GOT A BAD DOOR SWITCH AND SHOULD BE A REASONABLE REPAIR
THE OTHER SOLUTION STILL WOULD BE A CONNECTION PROBLEM ON THE KEYBOARD ITSELF-THE WIRES JUST PLUG ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD BEHIND THE KEYBOARD---STILL A EASY REPAIR--GOOD LUCK TUNICA
The most common causes for a lack of heating are a bad door switch, a loose connection on the magnetron, a bad magnetron, bad connection on the control circuit board, a bad relay on the board, bad high voltage diode, or bad high voltage transformer.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383