Question about Husqvarna Forest & Garden #952802239 235E 16" Gas Chain Saw

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The bar and gear cover will not go back on. The

The bar and gear cover will not go back on. The metal band will not fit over the round metal piece with the spring inside that fits over the gear.

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The metal band is the chain brake . It must be compressed so you need to move the brake handle forward.

Posted on Feb 01, 2010

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Missing piece


Hi it's called an Axle Key ., Cheers

Dec 20, 2016 | Health & Beauty

Tip

Layman?s Instructions to replace the transfer belt for a Samsung CLX-6200FX...


Intro: This is a fairly difficult task, so really make sure you want to do this first. Factor in the cost of the transfer belt(maybe $25 dollars off of Ebay??) and it's not such a good deal. Anyway, for the DIYer diehards, keep reading.Necessary equipment:1. Number 2 philips screwdriver and a really small flathead screwdriver2. Disposable gloves3. 12 inch strip of cardboard or plastic4. Vacuum cleaner5. Spring hook removal tool (can made a simple one with a pair of pliers and a paper clip)
Disassembly: 1. Place the transfer belt assembly down on a table, so that the paper belt drive is on your right side. Remove the paper drive belt assembly by removing the three bright screws that hold it in place.
2. Turn the whole thing over and remove the rubber roller at the bottom. This is done by first carefully remove the spring that hold one of the plastic end in place. Choose the end that has the metal grounding tab on it. Be really careful to not damage the plastic tabs that hold the spring ends. The grounding tab must be pulled up slightly in order to go over a plastic nub before you can slide the plastic end off. Don't pull the metal too hard, or it will be permanently deformed. Place these parts to one side. The metal ends of the rubber roller have a little bit of grease on it, so just leave it there.
3. Flip the transfer belt assembly back over and on the right side, there is a protruding piece of plastic that has an electrical connector attached to the end of it. It's held in place by two black screws. Remove those two screws and the assembly will now hang there by the wires.
4. Remove the top plastic piece (covers the green release lever). There are four black screws that hold this in, two screws on each side. The part will dangle because it is connected by the same wires that connect to the piece in step 3.
5. With the removal of the part in step 4, the green release lever assembly is completely exposed. There are two springs (one on each side) that pull the plastic ends of the release assembly to its normal position. These springs need to be carefully removed. The spring hook removal tool is handy here. Finally, there is a holding tab on each of these end pieces, which needs to be carefully pulled up about 2 mm or so and then the end will slide off the metal bar. Don't lift up on the tabs too much or they will break off.
6. There are 4 bright screws that hold the excess toner tank. (This is the big piece of plastic with ribs, that the paper belt drive assembly was attached to. This tank will now come off, since the part in step 4 has been removed. The tank will be full of excess toner, so have the vacuum cleaner handle to clean up the mess. Shake the toner out into a garbage can.
7.
Underneath the excess toner tank is a scraper/cleaner bar. Two bright screws hold the bar in place. Take care to not deform the metal grounding tab that grounds the bar during operation.
8.
Take the left side plastic panel off now. There are 4 black screws that hold it in place. It should come free. If something is holding it in place, then you probably skipped step 5 and didn't remove the green release level assembly yet.
9.
There is a round rod which will come loose as soon as the left side panel is removed. This round bar works with the scraper to clean the excess toner from the transfer belt. Note that one end of the round bar has been machined to have a smaller diameter. That end goes toward the left side plastic panel. Put the round rod aside for now.
10. There are two round rollers on the top and bottom of the transfer belt assembly that are used to stretch the belt. The bigger round roller is spring loaded to provide the tension needed to keep the belt flat during operation. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the compression spring (hidden under the left side plastic panel earlier) so as to release the tension from the belt.
11. Put your gloves on now, because in the following steps, foam rollers will be exposed and it's best not to get body oils on them.
12. There is still tension on the belt because there's a compression spring on the other end of the big round roller, but that's okay. Now, press on the plastic end piece that holds onto the roller to completely release all tension on the belt. The belt will now slide off. It won't come off easily since it's a tight fit. Just work at it and it will come out. Note, one side of the belt has a rubber track inside of it. That's the orientation that the new belt must go back in on.
13.
With the old belt removed, the inside of the transfer belt assembly is now completely exposed. Vacuum the excess toner dust.
Reassembly:
14.
Note where the round bar that pressed against the scraper should be. There are pieces of plastic protruding here which will damage the new transfer belt as it is being put into place. Cover these protruding points with a strip of cardboard, 12 inches long and about 1-2inches in width.
15. Now, holding everything in your lap and with the right side down, press on the end piece of the big roller as before, so that it is possible to slide the new belt down into place. Take your time, and it will finally get into place. Try your best to not fold the transfer belt material in any way. You will know the belt is in place when the rubber inside track goes into the groove of the black plastic roller at the near end of the big roller.
16. Put the compression spring that pushed the end of the big roller back into place.
17.
Slide the round bar approximately now where it should go. Remove the protective strip and position and push the bar end into the brass bushing. Remember, the machined end of this round bar should be aligned so that it clears the inner rubber track of the belt. I put a drop of light machine oil on the brass bushing, but I don't know if was really necessary.
18. Carefully put the left side panel back into place, noting that the smaller roller end and the round bar have to aligned properly before the panel will slide into place. Again, I put one drop of light machine oil on each brass bushing just before putting it all together. Four black screws are used to hold the panel in place.
19.
Put the scraper bar back into place using two of the bright screws. Note, the metal tab on one end should be pressing against the bar, making electrical contact when it is in properly.
20. Put the excess toner tank back into place, using4 black screws.
21. Return the green release lever assembly pieces back into place, basically performing the earlier steps in reverse. First position the lever bar in place, then slide the ends back on. The retaining tabs should click and the ends will be locked into place again. Putting the springs back into place is easiest with the help of the hook removal tool.
22.
Thread the top plastic piece back over the green lever. You may need to press on the green lever just a bit to get the piece back in and again to align the screw holes. 4 black screws to hold this top plastic piece.
23. Put the electrical connector piece back into place. Note that it hooks over the side panel piece. Route the wires into the proper place, so as to not smash them as the two black screws are used to reattach this piece.
24. Put the rubber roller back into place. Steps are the exact reverse of what it took to take it off.
25. Finally, fasten the paper belt drive assembly back down with the 3 bright screws. Note,this piece hooks into the top plastic piece before it is screwed down. Use a small flathead screwdriver, as needed,to make sure the grounding tabs are not messed up as the assembly is put back into place.

on Feb 24, 2011 | Samsung CLX-6200FX Printer

1 Answer

Something shifts back and forth under the drivers seat when I turn


check the seat rails for tightness, if that what you are talking about. now it you are talking about the gear or bands shifting that the bands on the transmission need to be adjusted if you have gear shift than the gears are round off and it will shift out of gear.

if none of these than i need more information.

Mar 25, 2015 | Seat Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cover won't go on.round metal strip won't fit on round spindle that turns chain.E-235.Do I need the break bar?It doesn't line up either. DB


Sounds like the chain brake was set when you took the cover off. You need to disengage the chain brake (release it) so the round spindle will fit inside. Look for the two parts (one on cover, one on saw) that match up at the base of the chain brake. You won't be able to fit the whole cover on, but if you can line up where the metal triangular gear engages the chain brake, you can give it a snap to disengage it. What I have done in the past is to line up the two parts and push down on the top of the cover where they meet so as much of the gear is in the chain brake release as possible ( I put a knee on it ) and then give a snap to release it. Be careful though, because the cover part is plastic and you don't want to strip that part of the chain brake assembly. Good luck.

Sep 04, 2011 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

Can't put the cover back on my model 240 28" chain saw. the band will no go over rhe brake


Sounds like the cover was taken off with the brake on. On some of the Huskies, the brake is engaged with a three-part metal piece that fits into a corresponding shaped part on the cover and is engaged with a firm click on or off. The piece looks a little like the old nuclear bomb shelter signs, like three pie wedges with the narrow parts meeting in the middle. Be careful not to strip the plastic part when trying to marry these two sections together or you will be buying a new cover. I lined up both parts, made sure it was in as far as possible, put a knee on it, and snapped the chain brake off. This opened the band, and it fit once again. Note: I did this correctly the second time it happened to me. The first time resulted in a brand new pretty cover for my used saw because I tried forcing it and stripped the plastic part it the metal piece fits into. Good luck.

Sep 04, 2011 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

1 Answer

I have a Poulan chainsaw, model no. PP4620AVX. I removed the clutch cover and now I can't get it back on. The circular section which has some type of metal band appears to be the problem. When I try...


The cover looks easy, but it is a special fit problem. There is a screw device with a very small pip which fits into the chain bar on the side. When you put the chain and bar on together, you have to adjust this BACK toward the sprocket with a flat screw driver. Now you can fit the bar and chain in with the chain around the sprocket and very loose. Place the cover on after visually seeing a passage for the chain oil from the angled plate - through some slots in the side, though the side hole in the bar, and up through that invisible inside drilled hole between the chain groove and the bar side hole. Move the cover back and forth before tightening. Ensure that the screw pip device is snapped into the bar so that you can move the bar forwards and back using the flat screw driver. Now tighten to less than hand tight. Adjust the bar forward so you can just see three bottom guide teeth in the chain when you pull on the middle of the chain from the bottom of the bar. Now you have the right tension on all those sharp links and you can give the cover bolts a good tightening, not to crack the plastic or metal though. Be sure to clean all the dust out of the band area with a tooth brush as this can lock up the band and not let the chain revolve at all - making it act as if the chain brake is on. Also be aware of the tiny roll/spring pin in there which wants to fly out when cleaning. It controls how the band works when you trip the chain brake.

Jun 21, 2011 | Poulan Pro Chain Saw 46cc 20"

1 Answer

How doe the band on my chain break attach to my chainsaw mine is broken and i do not know how to install it. or how to get the clutch off so i can replace it


It can be a little tricky!

If you are referring to chain break band

Tools you will need:
1/2 Socket (to remove bar nuts)
T25(torq) or you can use a Flathead screw driver but is a little harder.

Remove 2 bar nuts,Clutch cover,bar,chain, 2 screws on black bar handle right behind clutch cover(this is needed because there is a hidden screw there for the chain break) You will need a new chain brake (my guess is that it is part # 530071893 aprox $15) but you will want to verify that with your model number.

You should see the chain break assembly, 3 - T25 screws are visible after the clutch cover is removed(note sometimes you have to clean saw dust to make screw head visible) the other T25 screw is hidden under the black bar handle. Once you remove all 4 screws on the chain brake you will be able to pull it off.

Installing the new one is the tricky part because if it is set(or break is on) you will have a hard time putting it on.One of the easiest ways is to focus on it near the muffler you will see that a metal 3 pronged gear fits into the plastic part of the chain break handle.and if the band is too tight to fit over the clutch drum you will have to carefully reset it by applying pressure onto the area that has the 3 pronged gear and chain break handle make sure that the handle is pushed forward all the way while you apply pressure then slowly pull chain break handle back till you hear a "snap" this resets the chain brake spring and the band should now fit over the clutch drum.Now, proceed with putting back together 4 chain brake assembly screws,2 handle screws,and bar,chain,clutch cover,and 2 bar nuts.

Please note it is important that you apply quite a bit of pressure onto chain break area where metal (3 pronged) gear fits into handle while resetting or when you reset it the metal part can cut into and damage the plastic piece in the chain break handle.

You can see a breakdown here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Poulan-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Model-P4018WT/1324/1503220/P0506041/00002?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=P4018WT

Hope this helps!

Feb 20, 2011 | Poulan 18" Wild Thing Chainsaw

1 Answer

Neddle brakes - Out off the course when sewing large patterns


The reason of this missbehave is a destroyed plastic buffer, which is attached to the move limiter for the needle bar frame. It is quite a little delicate to open the machine's housing due to some hidden scews. Neccesary is to open it. You have to empty the accesory drawer. Then you have to remove the underside cover. The right side cover must be removed as well (take care of the screw which fixes the middle part of this. It is found from below through a small channel, just fitting a screw driver through the hole). Below the movable small table at the lower left front, there is a small turnknob for adjusting the horizontal alignment of big patterns. This knob has to be pulled out, also the round cover below it (best use a little hook and pull the cover out at its small hole seen from below). Remove the two screws directly under the movable table. Remove all screws, which are fixing the front cover from below the machine. Remove the hood which covers the needle bar just as you would like to change the light bulb). There are two scews to be removed holding the front cover. The foot presser handle has to be removed as well. Now gently pull the front cover off the machine. It might be neccesary to help moving the cover at the upper side, inserting a screw drivers blade into the gap between cover and machine frame. The cover should snap off now, if there are no forgotten screw connections left.
After the cover is released, take care of the ribbon cable, wich connects the display etc. with the electronich mainboard. the ribbon cable can be teared out carefully of the mainboard connector. Now you have clear sight onto the needle bar's mechanics. if you push the needle bar to the right, you can see, that the needle bar frame is stopped from a small metal piece, fixed with two screws. At the touch point of the frame and the metal piece, there is (or was) the plastic buffer, which is now destroyed and has the consistence of used chewing gum.
There are two choices: Either you find a spare part metal piece with good plastic buffer or you will have to improvise the buffer by handcrafting it.
After you repaired the metal piece, you will have to adjust it.
Moving the needle bar to the right, the needle bar clutch have to release the needle bar before the needle is over the point to stitch to the plate.

Remark: Due to the different length of the screws it might be a good idea to give some notes, which length belong to which hole.

Wish a good success,

Bernd

Feb 06, 2010 | Singer Quantum XL-6000 Computerized Sewing...

1 Answer

MAC "WIRELESS MOUSE" A 1015. The cover fell off and the metal bar on the cover will not stay in place and the small plastic cover over the light will not stay in place. help


I used Krazy glue (ethyl cyanoacrylate). The metal spring bar was originally held to the the cover by a piece of plastic sticking through the larger round hole at the latch end of the metal bar. Put the glue at that spot only.

Oct 27, 2009 | Apple Bluetooth Wireless Mouse m9269zm/a

6 Answers

I have a Husqvarna 345e chainsaw. Can't get the cover back on.


That metal band you see which is preventing you from putting on the cover is part of the chain break mechanism. You were suppose to disengage the break before taking off the cover (I did the same thing). To get it back together you need to disengage the break by a tricky procedure and that will make the band diameter larger so it fits over the clutch. To force the band open, you need to first place the cover over the two bolts that hold the bar. As you already know, the back of the cover will not be able to fit over the clutch. Now in this angled position, bend (force) the break lever down (gray thing on top) until you can force together the sproket in the cover onto the mating pastic fitting built into the break lever. Now you can use the break lever to force down the internal spring and open the metal band. That will expand the stainless steel band and it will fit around the clutch. If you now push down on the back of the cover it will snap in over the clutch. Once you see how it is done, it is not so hard, but it is tricky because you are forcing some of the parts slightly out of position to get it back together. .

May 18, 2009 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

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