I just bought this machine and getting a hold of support at 1-800-4-singer is a joke. Its always busy. I will load the buttonhole pressure foot and have all the settings correct but when I push the foot pedal it will just beep. Nothing will move. Is there a secret step that is not mentioned in the almost worthless manual?! :) I LOVE the machine so far...
Thanks but I did have this done. I actually (finally) got through the customer service number but they couldn't help as I didn't have the machine in front of me because I have to call from work during their hours. I tried it two times the orginal time and then again today so their only suggestion is to take it to a warranty shop and the closest one is 3 hours away. If I can't get it figured out this week I'm just going to return it and go with a Kenmore that my mom has and has never had a problem with it. Thanks for your help!! I really appreciate it!
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Re: Won't stitch a buttonhole
Your machine is telling you that you have missed a step.
Probably the buttonhole lever is not all the way down. it is left of the needle at the top of the machine by the lamp and has a picture of a button hole on it.
Hope this helps
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You are stuck in buttonhole. The selector knob does not spin round and around. It is moved from Stitch 1 to stitch 14 and back. Try selecting buttonhole and then running the knob in the other direction to straight stitch. If that does not work, (1) drop the lever that senses the button hole attachment, (2) sew a few stitches backward, (3) push the button hole lever rearward, once, hard, (4) rotate the stitch selector to straight stitch.
Have you pulled down the buttonhole trigger lever at the back of the sewing area? most modern machines have one of these - when you use it with the button hole foot, you'll see the foot has a little piece that sticks out and triggers the lever to begin stitching the reverse bead and bar tack of the buttonhole.
Are you using the buttonhole foot when you try? It will look like this.
Also, there is a lever you need to pull down to deploy when stitching buttonholes. It triggers the machine to stop stitching out the side of the buttonhole, reverses then does the other side. Its a little lever up in the head near the pressure foot bar and needle bar. It will touch the sticking out finger on the buttonhole foot to trigger the reverse motion in the programm.
Ensure that your stitch width and your spacing are set to a green-light setting. Also, ensure that your stitch wheel will operate(It will lock in the case of a jam.), and check to see that the stitch you have selected is compatible with the kit load you have onboard, i.e. for buttonholing, ensure you have the automatic buttonhole foot attached and the buttonhole lever down. In all other stitches, ensure the buttonhole lever is in the full up position.
The 7444 Precision is a "Smart" machine, and will not allow you to attempt a stitch that simply will not work with the wrong stitch spacing and width settings applied. Move the sliders slowly until each one lights up green, or at least does not light up yellow/orange at all.
Most sewing experts will tell you that the best buttonholes are made with the Singer Buttonhole attachment that has been available since the 1930's. It makes perfect buttonholes every time. Everyone complains about the modern machines not making great buttonholes and not working correctly. Just do a quick search on eBay for one of these vintage attachments and your problem is solved once and for all. Don't waste all the time and money trying to get your machine fixed to only find it does not make good buttonholes...the best solution has always been the buttonhole attachments made by Singer, which the professionals use even with modern machines. They can be found in low or slant shank.
When a machine does an "automatic buttonhole the feed does not move for a few stitches and maay jam if there are too many stitches made in this position. Is it an automatic buttonhole or can you choose how many stitches for your bartack?
You ask about 0.5 well that is halfway between 0 and 1 on the stitchlength and this is indeed the recommended setting for buttonholes. If you are doing a manual buttonhole set your machine to this for the sides and zero for the bartacks but you only need about 6-10 stitches on the bartack. Fininsh it off securely by setting to straight stitch and stitch length zero for about 4 stitches to lock the thread in.
These are the exact instructions from the Manual.
1. Select one of buttonhole patterns. 2. Replace the presser foot with the buttonhole foot. (Install presser foot with little red mark towards the front) 3. Insert the button into the buttonhole foot. (the part located in the back crescent shaped) 4. Lower the buttonhole lever (to the left of the needle) so that it drops down vertically between the stoppers A and B. 5. Carefully mark the position of buttonhole on your garment. 6. Place the fabric under the foot. Pull out the bobbin thread underneath the fabric to a length of about 4 inches to the rear. 7. Align the buttonhole mark on the fabric with the mark on the buttonhole foot, and then lower the buttonhole foot. 8. While holding the top thread, start the machine. *Sewing will be completed automatically. 9. When sewing is finished, use a buttonhole opener to open up the frabric in the center of the buttonhole. Be careful not to cut anyt of the seam thread. I hope this helps.
I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zigzag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.
1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.
2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.
3. Put the zigzag foot on the machine.
4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.
5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zigzag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zigzag foot.
6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zigzag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.
7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.
8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zigzag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.
9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.
10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zigzag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.
11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.
Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.