Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer
It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these: It doesn't pump or spin It pumps, but doesn't spin It spins only with the lid closed It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these: The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it. The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
lid switch is bad chance are you can by pass this by removing the timer header and crossing the outer wire on the lid switch that it mounted closest to the lid not the power cord this will tell you if you need a switch
Posted on Dec 03, 2007
Tip the washer backward, inspect the bottom of the gearcase for oil. If oil is present, the oil has migrated to the clutch causing it to slip during spin. The gearcase and clutch will have to be replaced if oil is present. Check the owners manual for limited warranty on the gearcase. If oil is not present, the clutch is just worn and should be replaced.
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
HI It sounds like the spin basket drive is going bad. If it was the lid switch, you would get no sound. Let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on May 16, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
Take note of your symptoms:
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.
2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.
If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
When you look down into the agitator, are there 4 white plastic points that look slightly melted or otherwise deformed? If so, using a small flat head screw and a small hammer, separate the white plastic from the surrounding translucent plastic. Once you've done that, it should easily pull apart.
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
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