Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

4 Answers

Mitsubishi WD-52525 Failure

Our t.v. picture became scrambled the other day. Then it continuously became worse and eventually went to an all black screen. After we lost the picture, the lamp light went completely red. Assuming it was the lamp, we replaced it, even though we replaced the current one less than 6 months ago. After replacing the lamp, we still have no picutre, but we do have audio. Now as we attempt to turn the t.v. on it will come on with a blank screen for about 20 seconds and then shuts itself off. Now the status light shows red. I've read several blogs about possibly capacitor failure??? Any suggestions or solutions for our problem?

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  • 21 more comments 
  • Angered Feb 19, 2008

    Well, now when I attempt to turn the t.v. on, I can't even power it up. All I have is a steady red lamp indicator light, and when I attempted the Device and Menu buttons, I get nothing????

  • Angered Feb 19, 2008

    We attempted to take the T.V. apart to see if swollen capactiors were the problem. Once we got into the back, there were three silver boxes, next to where all the inputs are. Then we could not get any of them removed? Are we even looking in the right place? I think we are in need of the service manual to get this fixed, any suggestions for locating one?? THanks for all your help.

  • Angered Feb 24, 2008

    We downloaded the file you suggested, we still can't access the power supply or DM board area. We even have the service manual, but it doesn't tell us how to remove the metal shield around the three boxes. Someone else had the same problem and posted a picture of the area I'm referring to at http://www.angeldesigngroup.com/jessie/p...

    There are no instructions listed how we remove the metal shield to access the boards?? I guess Mitsubishi says it's an older model, but it was manufactured in 2004 and bought in 2005. Not that old. Any suggestions??

  • Angered Feb 26, 2008

    Finally got into the supply board and guess what? Found 3 blown capacitors. One was leaking a brown fluid. We have since ordered the replacement capactiors and are looking forward to solving this technological crisis. Thanks for all your help, and saving over $1000 of listening to the T.V. tech.

  • freetv77 Feb 27, 2008

    Help - just like above, I took my 52525 apart in the back and I can't figure out how to get all the PWB outs. I have the service man. but mine looks a bit different (it doesn't have "4 black screws" per the man.) How do you get these boards out? I know it can be done based on these posts - Help!!

  • Angered Feb 28, 2008

    freetv77-



    I hate to tell you this, but you have to literally take your t.v. apart to get to the power supply. We had to take the back, and front screen and plastic casing, even the front speakers out to get to the power supply board. It's no easy task, but with patience you take every screw out and get to the board. We even purchased the service manual, but our chasis was covered by a metal shield that you need to release from the front. The power supply will be in the front near the right speaker as you look at your t.v. Hope this helps.

  • Anonymous Feb 29, 2008

    Thanks! I was afraid this was the case, but I wanted someone to confirm before I started taking the FRONT of the tv apart...BTW, did you get yours to work?

  • Angered Mar 01, 2008

    We are still working on removing the old capacitors and replacing them with new. Radio Shack, did not have the ones we needed, so an electronics store ordered them for us, and we are waiting for them to come in. We'll let you know how it turns out.

  • Anonymous Mar 01, 2008

    Freetv writes: Ok, I took off the screen, all the speakers, then I took off the entire screen outer housing (i.e. the entire top of the tv), finally I was able to remove the major inner baseplate (i.e. the entire bottom of the tv) , then, and only then, was I able to get to the shielding of the boards. Had trouble with three screws in the front (speaker location) of the shielding of the main PS - need a very long screw driver. Finally I got the shielding off the main PS to discover there are additional internal screws holding the boards to the tv. I removed them, and at last, I was able to actually pull the board units partly out of the tv. I can tell I have at least two bad caps on my main PS board, and I am still looking at the others (actually, I don't have them fully apart yet...

    There was a lot of dust inside, and I am not at all surprised I had problems given all this dust/lint. I think I will try to order parts that are good up to 125 degrees rather than the rated parts of 105...at least for the main PS.

    I can't believe what I had to do. The manual was completely WRONG about getting access. Based on what I can tell, there is no other way to get to these parts except to take the entire top (screen, screen holder, base plate, speakers) of the TV off as well as the back.

    I thought this would take 2-3 hours, instead it has taken me four evenings!!! And there is not guarantee this will fix it or I won't do damage in the process (or even be able to get it back to in one piece. So a word of warning before anyone else trys this - make sure you have a lot of time and a lot of space before you try this. And, make sure your wife is not made at you when you start because she will be by the time you are finished!

  • Angered Mar 09, 2008

    Replaced the capacitors and put the t.v. back together, know it won't even power up??? Any suggestions??? Other than just buying a new T>V>?

  • Anonymous Mar 09, 2008

    Freetv here: ok, very good news on my front - I just finished and my tv is back together and works!!! Recall I was getting a scrambled screen and some message like "check components for power".
    First - here are the parts I ordered from mouser.com










    Mouser #:



    647-UVZ1E332MHD












    Mfr. #:



    UVZ1E332MHD






    Desc.:



    Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 105 Degree 25V 3300uF 16X25 20%Tol 7.5LS 105Deg







    RoHS:




    RoHS Compliant














    Asterisk, '*', is not a valid character for Customer Part number.















    Availability



    2 Ships Now









    $1.15

    $2.30

















    Mouser #:



    647-UVZ1E102MPD












    Mfr. #:



    UVZ1E102MPD






    Desc.:



    Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - 105 Degree 25V 1000uF 10X20 20%Tol 5LS 105Deg







    RoHS:




    RoHS Compliant














    Asterisk, '*', is not a valid character for Customer Part number.















    Availability



    12 Ships Now









    $0.47

    $5.64












    For additional information on availability, click on the Mouser Part #.













    MERCHANDISE TOTAL:





    $7.94































  • Anonymous Mar 09, 2008

    FreeTV again - now back to Anger. First - when my TV was still apart I tried to power up and it would not. I got a solid yellow "status" light. I checked the service man. and this is a code for the "filter cover is not on". I replaced the filter cover and it powered up.

    Do you get any sign of life? The rear fan should turn on even if the tv doesn't work. If the fan dosen't work you don't have power. This means you power supply is not working. Now this may sound silly, but did you make sure you plugged in the power cord to the power supply? I has a white connector that goes to the supply. It was a pain for me, so I remember doing it.

    Also, I have so many close calls along the way. The main power board has three or four little metal tabs that are supper fragile. They are actually fuses and the power supply won't work if these are blown. Putting my power supply into its box I broke one off - fortunately I found it on the ground and was able to solder it back in to place. Also, there are so many of these thin wire tab connectors between the boards. It is very hard to tell if you have these in correctly. I guess I go lucky, but I won't know for sure until I try all of the different inputs. That is, I only tested my TV with the compact flash slot. (TV is in the garage and I don't have a cable out there.)

    Please update me on if you have any sign of life at all. We will go forward from there.

    And for my final advice; pray a lot and give God the glory if you get it fixed!

  • Angered Mar 09, 2008

    Yeah, we don't even get the fan to power up, and ** status light indicator. Looks like we will be taking the whole thing apart again to check it over. Did you only have to fix capactiors on the power supply? We didn't remove any of the 3 rear metal casings? We'll keep you posted.

  • Angered Mar 09, 2008

    Free TV-

    How many capacitors did you end up replacing? We attempted the 2 3300 10 V and replaced them with 3300 uf 16V. I see you had some 1000 uf in there as well. Were they blown or did you just replace them anyway? And we only checked the front board not the three that were sandwiched between each other. Maybe this is our problem?

  • Anonymous Mar 09, 2008

    FreeTv here: Ok, let me make sure I understand what you wrote. You indicate 1)** fan, and importantly 2) you get the status light blinking Red per ** in the service manual. Is this correct?

    Assuming yes, the problem is "Ballast or Exhaust fan stopped". This is good news. You power supply is working, and it looks like you doing **t make all the connections to get the all the fans working. If you followed the service manual like me, you took apart the Ballast for the light and took off two connectors. This is behind the front view left speaker (and in fact, you did **t have to take this apart for our models). Make sure you put both of those connectors back. There is also a connection for the fan that sits above the power supply, and for the fan that is connected to the back metal plate. Make sure all these connections are made, tight, and proper.

    As for replacing all the other capacitors, **ne of them were obviously blow whereas the two 3300 on my main supply were blown and leaking dielectric fluid. Several of my 1000s look like they might be starting to bulge so I replace all of them anyway (and upgraded to 16V) as a precautionary measure. So, I don't think this is your problem in this case.

    Anyway, if you are in fact getting the blinking Red status - I think you simply have a bad/missing connection to a fan or the ballast. You might only need to take off the back of the tv (plastic side and metal panel) to fix this, and that is **t very hard at all. You should continue to try and fix it at this point. I had trouble finding the connection for the fan on the metal board. I had to take out the three bottom screws holding in the main RCA connection box (i.e. almost all of the inputs to the TV), pivot it out of the way, and then I found it. I think it was FN2 or something like that. Check all the fan connections, and make sure they are all "clicked" in solidly.

    Good luck and let me **w what happens. I am praying for you.

  • Angered Mar 10, 2008

    Free TV-

    We don't have any power and ** status light indicator. Once we put it all back together we get **thing. ** fan, ** status or lamp lights, and unfortunately ** power. We didn't remove the ballast, when we took everything apart. And I checked and we did have the power supply cord, and everything else connected when we took it apart again.

  • Anonymous Mar 10, 2008

    ok - this sounds like something basic on the power supply. It has a glass fuse on the main power board. Check the fuse to make sure it is not blown. Also, count the small metal tabs and make sure you did not break any off during the process. Finally, make sure you did a good job installing the new caps. If they are not properly installed the supply won't work.

    Again, if you get no sign of power at all this is something basic at the main power supply. It sounds like a fuse issue.

  • Angered Mar 11, 2008

    Well, it looks like the fuses are all in tact and in good condition. All the small silver fuse tabs appear to be in place. And all connections securely made. We are going to have the T.V. tech come out and look it over tomorrow. Do you think we are okay with the 16V 3300 UF replacement capactiors? THe tech said there is a way to test them and he checked and they appeared to have a good connection?? We'll keep you posted.

  • freetv77 Mar 11, 2008

    Freetv here:

    16V should be ok - I used 25V just upgrade and make things "beefier". If you paid someone (that has good skills) to put the caps in you should be in good shape, and it is a good sign that all the tab fuses are still there.



    Good luck with the tech. So far everything on my TV is still working perfectly.

  • Angered Apr 16, 2008

    Does anyone have the schematics for wd-52525? We've replaced the capacitors and checked the fuses, but still have no power?

  • garmo1 May 24, 2008

    WD-52525 TV, owned for 3 years now. On my 3rd bulb, got one year on my first one, 2yrs on the second one (Don't let it run 24/7 anymore), then when I put the 3rd one in, after a month the tv kept going off on fan code.

    Then one day, powered it up and got all blue screens on every input. After reading all of this stuff, I found the service manual online, but that is basically useless. You have to dismantle the whole top end to get to the boards. But found the 2 swolen caps, ordered them from mouser, and I am happy to say it is up and running again. Only 3 screws left over, so not bad. Not for the faint of heart....but doable....Hopes this inspires others. Less than $15.00 and good as new....Don't pay the repair man!!!!!!

  • wecos May 28, 2008

    TV kept scrambling then went off totally. Next day tried and just got voice no picture. tried changing bulb and then kept getting the red bulb light and the TV would shut off by itself when I would try the device or menu buttons on the set. now just nothing.

    stumped.

  • mroell Feb 25, 2009

    I turned the TV off on Monday night & when I came home from work on Tuesday night the TV will not power on. I changed the batteries in the remote, unplugged the power & rebooted everything. It still will not power on even if I try to use the button on the TV. Any thoughts??

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This solution is in regards to the comments below made by guest users. YOU DO NOT...that's right DO NOT have to take the entire top or front of the tv off. I acquired one of these WD52525 sets for FREE because it had the blinking green light issue.

I managed to find a service manual online ( i wish i could find it again but alas it evades me) What i discovered is that you simply need to take the back lower plastic off. This is the one that surrounds the inputs. once that is off, you take off the sheet metal backing that labels the inputs and has the fan attached to it.

Once you have taken out the billion little screws that hold those two pieces on you can see to the left of the set all of the inner workings behind the inputs. On the very left bottom edge of the set there are two screws that are vertical and go DOWN into the bottom plastic of the body of the TV. once you remove those two and one more higher up that is horizontal, the entire electronic workings of the set slide right out giving you glorious access to the system.

Find those three screws took me the better portion of five hours, a six pack of cheap beer, and one fist sized hole in my wall...but once you find them its gravy from that point on. TRUST ME. A trip to radio shack and 8 dollars on capacitors later i had a perfectly functioning 52inch HDTV. SCORE!

I realize that description is nearly impossible to understand with words alone, but if anyone is till browsing through this forum and needs pictures of more help in finding these three screws let me know and i will do my best to walk you through it.

Posted on Apr 23, 2010

I just completed this procedure on a dead 52525 also.  Two different boards had dead caps.  I believe it was an earlier model as there was shielding around all of the boards and it was fairly difficult to disassemble/reassemble for a TV.  It seems to be working correctly now.

Posted on Jun 16, 2008

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Who needs a repair manual when I have you guys!! Last weekend, my 52525 died almost three years to the day. So rather than throw it away or spend hundreds (not to mention the inconvenience) of dealing with a repair shop - I read your posts. So I dismantled the unit (easily with all the great advice), found the swollen caps, ordered replacements from Mouser, installed, reassembled and the set works perfectly. Also cleaned and realigned the mirrors while it was apart. Like a new TV. Cannot thank you guys enough. Not to mention my family thinks I'm a hero!!

Posted on Mar 22, 2008

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Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.

For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.


Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:

12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected

Posted on Feb 18, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Cary Farah
    Cary Farah Feb 19, 2008

    Blinking Problem


    http://www.chrisandnat.com/Projects/Blin...


    http://www.jeremyburns.com/Mitsubishi-Gr...



    http://www.fixya.com/howto/h159332-mitsu...


    http://hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php...


    replace DM





    Picture of bad caps


    http://www.auctioncreations.com/wd62525a...



  • Cary Farah
    Cary Farah Feb 19, 2008

    go to chris and nat.com and click on the blinking tv text and download the pdf.

  • Cary Farah
    Cary Farah Feb 25, 2008

    go here

  • Cary Farah
    Cary Farah Feb 26, 2008

    please mark post as fixya!

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You all;

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