Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV
Our t.v. picture became scrambled the other day. Then it continuously became worse and eventually went to an all black screen. After we lost the picture, the lamp light went completely red. Assuming it was the lamp, we replaced it, even though we replaced the current one less than 6 months ago. After replacing the lamp, we still have no picutre, but we do have audio. Now as we attempt to turn the t.v. on it will come on with a blank screen for about 20 seconds and then shuts itself off. Now the status light shows red. I've read several blogs about possibly capacitor failure??? Any suggestions or solutions for our problem?
This solution is in regards to the comments below made by guest users. YOU DO NOT...that's right DO NOT have to take the entire top or front of the tv off. I acquired one of these WD52525 sets for FREE because it had the blinking green light issue.
I managed to find a service manual online ( i wish i could find it again but alas it evades me) What i discovered is that you simply need to take the back lower plastic off. This is the one that surrounds the inputs. once that is off, you take off the sheet metal backing that labels the inputs and has the fan attached to it.
Once you have taken out the billion little screws that hold those two pieces on you can see to the left of the set all of the inner workings behind the inputs. On the very left bottom edge of the set there are two screws that are vertical and go DOWN into the bottom plastic of the body of the TV. once you remove those two and one more higher up that is horizontal, the entire electronic workings of the set slide right out giving you glorious access to the system.
Find those three screws took me the better portion of five hours, a six pack of cheap beer, and one fist sized hole in my wall...but once you find them its gravy from that point on. TRUST ME. A trip to radio shack and 8 dollars on capacitors later i had a perfectly functioning 52inch HDTV. SCORE!
I realize that description is nearly impossible to understand with words alone, but if anyone is till browsing through this forum and needs pictures of more help in finding these three screws let me know and i will do my best to walk you through it.
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
I just completed this procedure on a dead 52525 also. Two different boards had dead caps. I believe it was an earlier model as there was shielding around all of the boards and it was fairly difficult to disassemble/reassemble for a TV. It seems to be working correctly now.
Posted on Jun 16, 2008
Who needs a repair manual when I have you guys!! Last weekend, my 52525 died almost three years to the day. So rather than throw it away or spend hundreds (not to mention the inconvenience) of dealing with a repair shop - I read your posts. So I dismantled the unit (easily with all the great advice), found the swollen caps, ordered replacements from Mouser, installed, reassembled and the set works perfectly. Also cleaned and realigned the mirrors while it was apart. Like a new TV. Cannot thank you guys enough. Not to mention my family thinks I'm a hero!!
Posted on Mar 22, 2008
Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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