Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
It seems there is a slight leak (I think because of the top seal worn out)at the bottom which caused the clutch to seize up and preventing the unit from spinning CCW. I removed the clutch and was able to clean and lubricate it. I guess I had the bolt on too tight and the unit refused to turn. After loosening it could turn fine, however...
Now the unit refuses to agitate or spin.I have conducted all tests on the unit I could find. Motor test, spin test, drain test, quick cycle test, etc, but it returns no codes.
On normal washes it will fill, start to agitate then quit. Also the counter stops counting down. (did this before the clutch clean-up).
Before the unit would just stop counting down and would just keep agitating on and off.
Spill test: Start to spin normally then just stops. Feeling, observing, and listening to the belt underneath, the motor is not having trouble turning the drum. It just stops and refuses to turn anymore. Spin test will finish.
Motor Test: Motor spins the tub at 50 RPM just as the manual says it should (though with a bit of ticking sound).
SN is 10008874EL
Any more ideas?
“”It seems there is a slight leak (I think because of the top seal worn out)at the bottom which caused the clutch to seize up and preventing the unit from spinning CCW.”” Yep I’m sure you may have a slight tub seal leak. Was the One-Way Roller Clutches upper bearing ring and Clutch Pulley mounted One-Way Roller Clutches bearing severely rusted up? Could you turn the wash tub CCW by hand with very little resistance before you started into the Clutch Maintenance?
“”I removed the clutch and was able to clean and lubricate it. I guess I had the bolt on too tight and the unit refused to turn.”” I believe you did not have the upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring seated in the Outer Tub correctly when you reassembled. It is a tricky fitment/reassembly process. If the ticking sound if coming from the area of the clutch pulley that tells me it still not quite seated properly.
I recommend to lay the Washer completely on its back with a 4x4 placed just ahead of the drain hose exit, the fitment process is a bit tricky. You have to get that upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring seat properly in the base of the tub. I believe the ticking sound is coming from the Clutch Pulley assembly is that correct. When you opened up the Clutch pulley was the clutch spring OK?
“”Now the unit refuses to agitate or spin.I have conducted all tests on the unit I could find. Motor test, spin test, drain test, quick cycle test, etc, but it returns no codes. On normal washes it will fill, start to agitate then quit. Also the counter stops counting down. (did this before the clutch clean-up). “” Ok so that was the original problem correct?
If so I agree with the fist forum member’s solution. The Control Board is expensive unless you buy like I do e-bay used with Membrane Console. I feel you have lost PWM signaling from the Control Board to the Motor Controller input. The Main Control Board is in the Console. Can’t rule out a Motor Controller for sure but I lean toward the Main Control Board also P/N 25001217 item 23 for all series. Before that I would try reseating JP4 on the Motor Control Board. The PWM input signal from the Control Board comes into the Motor Controller on that plug. This digital signal controls Motor Speed and direction via the Motor Controller. This may buy you nothing but no cost involved also check for corrosion on the plug and mating Motor Control Board connector. The Service manual will take you through removing the Motor Controller it’s a tight work area as the clutch. Remove the AC power cord to the washer before these checks.
AZ Control Board 25001217
JP 4 on the Motor Controller;
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
This is indicative of a Microprocessor fault...
Posted on Feb 01, 2010
Testimonial: "I was thinking it could have been to, but I have no experience with eletronic washers and the manual does cannot cover all possible problems. "
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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