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Have a Maytag Atlantis Gas Dryer & the flame ignites when you begin a cycle but goes out shortly after. I have replaced the Hi-Limit Thermostat but the same thing happens. Any idea's?

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Gas dryer are very sensetive to air flow,make sure dryer is clean of any lint,check airflow sensor switch,there is a low temp swith that is normally open,this closes when the burner turns on and stays on after the burner goes out to make sure it cools to a safe temp, lint and airflow first,hope this helps

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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IT COULD BE THE FLAME EYE BLACK BOX OR THE TO COILS ON THE REGULATOR 2 ROUND BLACK THINGS I WOULD JUST REPLACE ALL PARTS UNLESS YOU ARE GOOD WITH OHM MEATER

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a gas dryer, model MDG7657AWW that will not stay heated. Every time I put it on, the flame comes on for about 21 seconds & then shuts off. I replaced the igniter, hi limit thermostat, cycling t


On a gas dryer the heat normally only comes on for 30 seconds or until the drum temp reaches 160f at which time the flame is shut down by the cycling thermostat. The drum temp then starts to drop. When the drum temp reaches 105f then another blast of heat is issued for 30 more seconds.That is how they work. Put it all back together and trow a load in there.
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Oct 28, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag DG410 gas dryer-no flame, no heat. I replaced the ignitor - that apparently isn't the problem. Other ideas?


Motor runs, but main burner will not ignite
1.heat switch set wrong---correct switch setting
2.defective timer or timer circuit---check timer wiring--replace timer motor or switch as needed
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor---clean switch or replace as needed
4.gas supply valve closed----open gas valve
5.inoperative solenoid coil---test coil for open circuit & the voltage to it
???
Pilot burner goes out
1.insufficient gas supply---- low gas pressure or clogged pilot filter or partially closed gas valve
2.carbon deposit on thermocouple tube---clean tube & check pilot burner for proper combustion
3.improperly adjusted pilot flame--adjust pilot flame until faint yellow tip begins to appear
4.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple---replace

Clothes not drying, but dryer runs & heats
1.defective operating thermostat---test thermostat, replace if defective
2.fan or it's pulley loose on shaft---tighten set screw
3.incorrect heat or timer settings---reset timer
4.clothes to wet when placed in dryer----wring out or extract water from clothes before placing in dryer
5.clogged lint screen or duct (little air motion)---clean out lint screen & duct

Sep 22, 2011 | Maytag PYG4500A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Heat


it could be your radiant flame sensor on the burner tube that senses the flame,or it could be bad boost and secondary gas valve coils on the gas valve located inside the unit,a defective high-limit or cycling thermostat on the burner tube,any one or combination of these can cause your symptoms

Apr 26, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Maytag Atlantis. Model#- MDG7658AWW gas dryer. My issue is that the dryer starts to heat up ( the way it should ) at the begining of any cycle but cuts the flame after one minute & the dryer...


Problem is not with the thermals. You gas coils on the valve have gone bad. Replace both of them and you will be fine. Very inexpensive repair. Part number is 12001349 at approx. $45.00.

Jan 31, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag gas dryer ldg7314aae my flame will not stay lit. Heats up flame kicks on then goes for about 20 seconds then shuts off. The dryer runs for about 20 more seconds and then the same thing happens...


you have done a lot . try running the dryer off the vent . when the burner is short cycling it a air flow problem . if off the vent does not solve problem ck the fan for a bad center . very common problem . and clean vent . ck outside for air flow and condition of vent hood .. hop this helps ..

Dec 03, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will not heat up...all vents are clear


if the motor turns,then it could be the glowbar/ignitor,the cycling switch,the flame sensor,the gas valve coils,a thermal fuse,temp switch,hi-limit thermostat,or the electronic dryness control

Oct 27, 2009 | Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Gas shuts off/flame off w/in minutes of starting maytag gas dryer


If you did all the things listed, there are only 2 left that will cause the problem. The cycle thermostat located on the exhaust vent and possibly poor airflow. Remove the connecting vent from the rear and try a timed load. If it works repair the vent exhaust problem. Most cycle thermostats include a thermister that could also be defective causing the short cycle. The flame sensor and gas valve coils would have been the number 1 diagnosis. I would need a model number to more specific.

Jun 14, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer does not dry clothes. Flame does not stay on


run dryer for 10 minutes then remove vent hose see if start working mean flame on for while, if it is then you need to clean your vent system.

May 01, 2017 | Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer

2 Answers

I HAVE A MAYTAG ATLANTIS GAS DRYER STOPS HEATING ABOUT 5 MINUTES IN


the flame going out is normal. the heat cycles on and off as called for by the thermostat. If the heat doesn't come back on i would start by changing the gas coils.

Oct 08, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MDG7400AW Gas Dryer

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