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Clarion model RT-9032C AM-FM receiver on/off switch

My Clarion model RT-9032C AM-FM receiver, installed as OEM in a 1987 Mazdda RX-7, has an inoperative on/off switch. If I can find a replacement switch, that would be great. If not, I'd like to find out what contact downstream of the switch should be powered when the switch is on, so I can introduce power to that contact with an external switch. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this unit?

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  • jstevens517 Jan 31, 2010

    Since I can't get power thru the internal switch into the radio I see the only solution, other than replacing the switch, to be introducing power downstream of the inoperative switch. Am I missing something?

  • jstevens517 Feb 01, 2010

    Yes, this is very helpful. Thank you.

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It sounds like you're trying to introduce an external switch to the inside of the stereo, which would work I guess but it's a lot of work to crack open the stereo and locate the leads.

I think you'll find it far easier to go upstream of the power switch, and introduce an external switch to the power supply in to the radio -- as though the car was turned off.

To do this, just locate the red wire with the black stripe (or black wire with red stripe) on the back of the stereo and introduce your switch there.


If it comes in handy, here's the wiring guide for the rest of the stereo hookup:

Clarion model RT-9032C AM-FM receiver on/off switc - dotted-line-527.gif 1987 Mazda RX7 Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/White
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue/Yellow


Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Red
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/Green

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

  • Rob C Jan 31, 2010

    Ah, I thought the problem was that the system was always on, and you needed a way to turn it off.

    Sounds like the system is always off, right? Then you're absolutely right that the only fix is inside the unit. I don't have a schematic for that stereo's insides, but 1980s vintage stereos are not very complex.

    I can't tell from the pictures I found if the power is activated by pressing the volume knob, or turning the volume all the way down, but if you look where this control mounts to the board, you'll see a set of 3 or 6 connectors that are small solder bumps. These are the volume controls. You'll also see a pair of larger solder bumps that are the power connections.

    If you use a continuity tester (or meter set to measure resistance) and measure from the 12V Switched wire to these solder bumps, you can locate one that is the power input -- the one that's connected to the 12V switched -- and one that's the downstream side of that switch -- the one that's not connected to 12V switched in.


    I realize this isn't what you were asking for, but hopefully it helps you get some progress.

    For what it's worth, it looks like there's someone trying to sell one of these stereos on eBay, and not finding any buyers. You may be able to contact the seller and make them an offer.
    Here's the first auction, closed with no bids.
    Here's the second auction, also closed with no bids.
    I'm not that seller, and I don't know a thing about his/her stereo.



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