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the level measurement may be blocked. At the back there should be a small pot connected to the drum by a tube. if the tube is block
ec then it won'tdetect that there is enough water to turn the heater on
If I understand you correctly your washer is a hot and cold fill but originally you had only a cold supply, hence the 'Y' junction? Now that you have a combi boiler you can supply hot water to the washer so you have a cold hose direct to the cold supply and the hot hose to the hot water?
If this is so, I believe the 'pre-wash' light flashing has nothing to do with the water supply- providing that both supplies are actually being fed into the washer!
So- no promises but it's worth carrying this out anyway!
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play. It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
your auto air vent is in the top right corner inside the burner compartment.
you may need a new one or auto air vent.
clicking like this is usually on the divertor head or divertor valve.
very strange pump clicking. firstname.lastname@example.org