Question about Maytag MGR6775 Stainless Steel Kitchen Range

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Maytag mgr6775 trips CB after clean stove top with spray cleaner


This happened once before, when I put a wet nylon cutting board on the cooktop to dry overnight. I heard a pop and saw the control panel was dark. I checked the breaker and it was tripped. I took the cutting board off the range, checked for standing water (didn't see any), and let it dry out over night. In the morning, reset CB - worked fine.

This time, resetting the CB right away caused it to trip again. Letting it sit over night allowed the breaker to be reset, but as soon as my wife tried to light a burner (spark ignition) - it "popped" and tripped the breaker.

She noticed a small amount of smoke from around the rear burner knob. We removed the knobs and noticed the rubber gaskets around the holes. They had some gunk left around them, and the rear control's gasket appeared to have been dislodged slightly (not seated as well as the others).

I service computers, and feel confident about investigating the cause of the problem. I was looking for a service manual, when I stumbled across your site (google). I've replaced the oven igniter some time ago, but haven't cracked the back open yet. Is there a service manual pdf? I think I want to inspect the area under the knobs, and look for some gunk causing the short. Any ideas, guys?

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  • Steve B Feb 18, 2008


    The cord doesn't screw on. This is a gas stove fitted for LP gas. It uses 120Vac for it's ignition and computer. The power cord comes in, splits to two terminal blocks (black & white; push-on lugs).

    I found a service manual on (sorry if that's a no-no to mention), and began to inspect:

    - found no evidence of shorts, no blackened or pitted wiring.
    - found that to disassemble the maintop enough to examine the spark switches properly, I'd probably destroy the screws securing the burner assemblies to the maintop, so I aborted that operation.

    I suspect that the crud accumulating under the knobs eventually defeat the rubber ring gaskets around the holes the gas valve shafts come through, allowing stray liquid to seep through an get into the spark switch.

    I tried plugging the power cord back in and resetting the CB - the stove seems to be working again; no more cb trips. I cleaned the rubber rings and maintop surface around the holes, and will advise my wife about liquids on the cook top and knob areas.

    Thanks for your attention!

  • Steve B Feb 20, 2008

    So this morning the CB tripped again and my wife said there was no loose liquid that she could see. I think I'll disconnect the spark igniter and see if it stops tripping the CB.

    If it does, I suspect I'll have to replace the switch asy., which brings me back to the question about screws. Are they specific or generic self-tapping screws? (no specs on the info I've seen).

    It appears that Sears has a kit of 8 Screws that might be the mounting screws for the burners, but the picture shows them pointing the wrong way. I guess that doesn't matter as long as they are the right ones. I just don't want to take one out and see that it's wrong and not be able to get the right ones immediately.

  • Steve B Feb 14, 2009

    Yo, RandomCrap!

    The part number is 12002790 Switch-ignr. I got mine from If you google the part number, you'll find it available from several sources, most of which were cheaper. I use Sears because I've gotten lots of parts from them over the years, and have been satisfied.

    Good luck!



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Same problem here, except that the ignitor switch attached to the knob/valve stem shorted out and caught fire. It's a poor design. The rubber grommets don't do an adequate job of keeping liquid out of the ignitor switches, and the switches themselves have no drains and are prone to shorting.

You can remove the cooktop without disassembling the burners.

First remove the two screws that hold the front of the cooktop down against the range. You'll need to open the top oven door to get to them.

Then remove the large rear sheetmetal panel, and unplug the 7 wires running from under the cooktop to the control modules. They plug right into the control module. Two of the wires come from the gas manifold on the left. The remainder come from the five ignitors, and are orange/brown. You may want to label them. Also remove the green ground wire.

Now unscrew both hard gas lines where they attach to the gas manifold underneath the cooktop. As you look at the rear of the range, with the sheetmetal panel removed, you'll see the manifold in the top left area. Although you can't see it from the front, the gas manifold sits underneath the row of knobs.

You should be able to carefully lift the cooktop off the range.

Inspect the five white squares attached to the valves on the manifold. If you saw smoke, then one of them is probably somewhat blackened/charred. Mine was.

Now if I could just figure out where to buy replacement switches.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • RandomCrap Feb 15, 2009

    Thanks for the part number!

    $37 for a poorly designed plastic switch -- unbelievable! I opened up the burned out switch -- it's literally a couple of bare metal strips (contacts) inside a plastic housing. They probably cost 25 cents to make.

    I may just remove the switch and live without it. The way this range is designed, all the knobs will ignite all of the burners, so the one missing switch is more of a convenience than a necessity.

    I really do appreciate the input though.


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First thing to inspect is where your cord screws on the range under the range let me know what you find and we will go from there and if you service computers you should join this site can pick up extra cash here

Posted on Feb 18, 2008

  • robert samples Feb 18, 2008

    well didn't notice it was gas sorry the knobs them selves aren't electric but they have ignighter switches mounted to them sounds like the breaker was the problem or the circuit breaker breaker might be overloading but i believe you kay have it and yes your right you don't want to remove the screws un less you have to although you can raise it up enough sometimes enough some times to get the panel off where the switches off there are two spring clips on the front of the range that you can depress with a putty knife to release the top some are on the sides some are at each corner of the front but if the ignighters are ok the switches are good

  • robert samples Feb 20, 2008

    well im here for advice before i pulled the top id pull the back panel and see if the clock shorted that's a more likely suspect the igniters and the switches are not high voltage its just 110 any way is the range on a dedicated breaker or is there other things on it the voltage is reduced by the ignition modual there is nothing electrical under the top except the igniters and i doubt they are the promblem look putting a wet cutting bd on it would not cause a breaker to trip the most getting it wet will dom is make the igniters spark until it dried if your breaker is tripping and your clock is working you got a problem some where else i would rule out every thing else before i blamed the range ive been doing this for 15 years and ive never seen a gas range trip a breaker you work on computers so you know about voltage reduction the ignighters are the same way send me an email and ill send you some reading material give me your complete model number first id change the breaker id go to a 20 or 25 amp next id change the out let they can short out too or get a extension cord turn every thing off in the kitchen and try the range by its self get the model number off of the serial plate on the range and send it to me at and the problem with removing the screws is most of the time you'll break one and cant get it out to put a new one in and i really doubt thats where your problem is but i can be wrong though



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