Question about Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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My seams pull apart

I've been sewing for years on on Janome serger, but lately the seams aren't tight -- when I flatten the seam and pull at it (as it would pull when worn), the seam actually pulls apart -- not so that it comes apart, but so that it looks very unattractive with lines of stitching horizontally all up and down the seam. Is there something I need to adjust?

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  • 1,388 Answers

Sounds like a tension issue.

Check your tension units and thread guides are clean and free of lint....a rag moistened with methylated spirit (denatured, surgical etc) run between the disks will help.

Normal factory tension setting = 3 for all dials although resetting this style of tension unit is, frankly, awkward, so if it ends up being other than 3, don't worry too much, just write it down somewhere handy.

Start with all at tension 3 and try using 4 different colours of thread and sew a scrap to see the balance of the tensions to more easily locate any that are loose.

Ideally, the 2 needle threads should appear as secure dots not at all "loopy", while the looper threads should meet neatly at the edge and be a firm join without pulling at the edge on one side or the other.

Get the needle threads right first, then small adjustments to balance the looper threads....after a few adjustments you will probably have it back to normal.

If you want any more help with this, just drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Feb 18, 2008

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I got a new Brother 1634D Serger and would like to make a quilt on it. How do you get a 1/4 inch seam? please help me


Don't expect a quilt to be as accurate from a serger as from a sewing machine. First, you probably want to focus a strip quilt where rows of strips are stitched together. If you do strips, you won't have to worry so much about maintaining an exact 1/4" seam. You can also vary the widths of strips in order to camouflage any seam variations. Avoid a pattern that requires points being aligned! Any seam width variances will not as obvious as an error (it is intensive getting an accurate 1/4" on a sewing machine--so-o-o-o much more difficult on a serger). There are usually seam width marks on a serger that you can follow as a guide, but straight line serging is very difficult to accomplish. You can always try marking a line on your serger using painter's tape.

FWIW, making a strip quilt on a serger is a fast way of finishing a quilt. I divide my quilt into 3 or 4 sections, like making it in thirds or fourths. That way, when the quilt begins to grow, you are not constantly grappling with flipping or turning the heavy and bulky fabric. Instead, do each section separately, then stitch the sections together to make the whole quilt.

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How do I set my Bernette 334D to overlock thin T-shirt material?


Thin, light-weight fabrics present some issues with sergers, ie the fabric tunnels with the stitching. Usually, it is better to use a narrow seam. Also, a stabilizer (wash-away) or even adding a strip of thin paper (toilet tissue, adding machine tape, etc) to the seam will help the fabric hold its shape when stitching. I have also sprayed & ironed heavy starch on thin fabrics to help stabilize.

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Jul 02, 2016 | Sewing Machines

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What size needle required for sewing Velvet curtains??


What kind of velvet? Poly-based fabrics often require ball-point needles to avoid pulls. For apparel weight velvet (something I'd make a skirt with), I'd probably use at least an 90, possibly heavier. For really heavy, upholstery-weight, I'd use my walking-foot machine and a 100-110 (often used for jeans). But I'm sure I'd want to bind all of the seams on my serger, I often bind after sewing the regular seams, but for very heavy fabrics I'd bind first (just run up all of the edges of each piece before sewing seams).
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Apr 06, 2015 | Janome Memory Craft 4900QC Mechanical...

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On my bobbin side of the materal after i sew its just tons of thread on that side and the stitch is not tight


Loose on bottom indicates trouble with top tension. Re thread your machine with the presser foot UP. sew a test seam. If you still have problems adjust the top tension. sew a test seam. If you still have problems clean between the tension discs with some sturdy fabric and unwaxed dental floss. Sew another test seam.

Still problems? Wind the top tension tight then back off 1/4 turns until the seam is balanced.

Aug 16, 2012 | Janome Sewing Machines

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Stitching is too loose on the Juno Janome Serger Model 3434D


sergers the most frustrating machines. Every time you change fabrics you go through a tension adjusting phase.

First make sure you have threaded the machine in the proper order. upper looper, lower looper, then needles from right to left. Always thread any machine while the presser foot lever is in the UP position.

If you ever break a thread... you MUST pull all threads and rethread using the proper order.

Ok that's out of the way. Pull all your threads and get out several pieces of the same fabric scrap. Thread each pathway with a different color. This will help you determine which thread is giving you fits. Sew a test strip. Which thread is loose? tighten/loosen that tension. Keep doing this until you have a well balance seam. Then clip the colored threads starting with the upper looper thread, tie off to your proper color for your seam pull the thread through and up through the throat plate. proceed in this manner with lower looper, right needle, left needle. Sew a test seam.

Good luck.

Aug 08, 2012 | Janome Sewing Machines

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Hi. About 5 years ago I purchased a Janome 744D Overlocker which I have only used once because the thread on the underside keeps snapping, and the needles keep breaking off. The foot is also very touchy...


Yes, overlockers sew fast, usually 1500 stitches per minute and with a blade in action alongside the loopers so there is a lot happening. Keep all pins well away from the seam edge, contrary to normal sewing machine techniques, if you pin two layers together, then place the pins parallel to the fabric cut edge at least 2 inches away from the edge so the pin goes nowhere near the foot or blade.

Check whenever you use it, that you firstly extend the thread aerial up to full height, you need to ensure the threads can flow smoothly to the tension dials as the thread will stream off fast, even the slightest catch of a thread will snap one, throw your tension out or damage a looper.

As you've had it all this time and not used it, why not consider investing a few dollars more and go to a class on overlockers, and learn how to thread it up for three, four, rolled hem and using the differential feed. If there is no class options in your area, then try the Janome dealer near you and see if they would consider giving you a a little lesson on using it. You could also check out the videos on You-tube or read some pages from Debbie on www.sewing.about.com, she has several pages on sergers (USA name for overlockers), explains the needles, threading, different techniques and maintenance. Or check out your local library for any books on sergers/overlockers, there are several good "how to" guides out there that would certainly help you get started.

Unfortunately there is no way to slow the speed to half speed, just practice with lots of fabric scraps at first, to get used to the sensitivity of the foot control. If you do dressmaking but aren't sure where to overlock or which seams you could only overlock, then consider just doing a three thread overlock around the edge of each fabric piece before you commence assembling the garment, just do your notch markings another way such as chalking them or using water soluable marker pen as the blade will cut away your outwards notches.

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I hope this helps you to master your overlocker, a lesson or class would help you with the steep learning curve at first.

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I have a new Viking Huskylock S25 and the serger tensions are off and I cannot get them adjusted.


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Have you got the thread aerial raised up to the full height? Remember also to put the plastic cone holders under the thread cones as you want the cone to stay still and the thread to feed off it - it does this very fast, sergers sew at 1500 stitches per minute so the thread streams off the cones very quickly.

Using a serger is quite different to a sewing machine and your model looks like its one of the later computerised ones with multiple stitch options including coverstitch. I'd suggest that you go back to your dealer and ask to spend time with them for a demo, thread up in front of them for pointers or take a class to familiarise yourself fully with the machine. Then go home again, break out the manual, and go through threading up from scratch several times until you've got it off pat. Remember to thread top looper, bottom looper, left needle, right needle in this sequence always, then pull all threads under the foot, lower pressure foot and serge off a short chain. To change colour thread, you can always cut and knot on new threads, turn tension down and pull through the loopers, but you've got to thread the needles fresh each time you change colour.

There is some good videos on You-tube, Nancy Zieman has a several and she's also written several books on using a serger and obviously the manual is first point of reference.

Each fabric will behave differently so for each new fabric, you will need to adjust tensions and move the blade to get it stitch and just encasing the cut edge at a suitable width. To work out how it should look, break out some ready to wear garments and have a look at those seams, then test and practice with your machine to get a similar stitch. Always test serge two thickenesses if you are going to use it to construct your garments and pull open from the right side to ensure the needle thread is tight enough so the seams don't pull open under wear.

Good idea to keep your test seam samples in a notebook and write down the settings you used for reference next time. I have to say, I've done flatlock with silky decorative thread once in 19 years - but I do know how to set up the machine for this. However, rolled hem with wooly thread is very useful and I often use this to edge hems. I'm envious of your coverstitch option, this is great for hemming and necklines and is something early sergers didnt do.

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Is there a dial on the right above the flywheel? This is where you adjust the stitch length on most sergers. It might be numbered from 0 to 5 or 4.

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If it has differential feed, there would be a dial there for this too, possibly under the stitch length knob - it would have numbers like -1, -0.5, 0, 0.5 and 1 on it.

If you are new to sergers/overlockers I highly recommend a class, demonstration or investing in a good book to get you started as they are not like sewing machines and many of the techniques are best demonstrated such as rolled thread edging and flat lock seams.

I've borrowed he Singer book "Sewing with an overlocker", or "Serge with Confidence" by Nancy Zieman from my library but there would be other titles too.

Apr 13, 2011 | Janome 2049LX Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Can i raise height of presser foot as material is too thick to fit underneath


Not unless the model you are using has more than one height adjustment. This would be addressed in the instruction manual for the machine.

If you raise the heigth of the presser foot too much, the tension control will open and the thread will not form a proper stitch - you will get a loopy stitch that will not hold.

Intersecting seams where you may have 8 layers of fabric can be flatten somewhat with a nylon hammer, or lay a cloth over the seam and use a regular hammer.

I use this when hemming jeans - the flat-feld seams are super thick when turned under for hemming.

Use a longer stitch length when sewing thick fabrics.

Make a sample, replicating what you will be sewing to test techniques and adjustments to the machine before sewing your project.

Feb 22, 2010 | Janome Sewing Machines

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