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Bevairucr60a compressor running but not cooling the capilarry tube only gets cold about 3 inches evap does not get cold and condenser does not get hot but copressor is running jumped the thermstat think cap tube is slugged . costumer agrred to change of compressor but i would like to find the whole unit all together evap,comp and coil drop in replacement

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Before you go replacing stuff, better check the freon level. It sounds that it may be low. Could be a leak in the system. I'd do that first. Symtoms point in that direction.

Posted on Jul 04, 2010


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Older GE fridge model number TFX20JRXAAA. Why is it not cooling below 50 degrees?

Depending on refrigerator age it could possibly be 2 things if you have no ice buildup on evaporator coils in freezer. 1st-- the discharge tube on the compressor is the smaller of the tubes. It actually should be hot when working right. The other bigger tube is the suction line which is the return line from the freezer coils and should be slightly cool not cold enough to sweat. when working right. You may be low on freon which should never happen unless your tubing developed a small leak somewhere. Refrigerators don't need recharged like car units because everything is soldered shut not bolted together like cars. If he freon leaked out the leak would need to be found--repaired---and then recharged with the proper amount of freon. The other possibility with older refrigerators say 15 years or older is what is called a low capacity compressor. It runs, but the inside gets worn out and it doesn't pump the freon like it should. The end result is exactly what you describe but low freon does the same thing.

Jun 09, 2015 | GE Refrigerators


Small Compressor Operation

Residential A/C and Refrigeration Hermetic Compressors
A Hermetic Compressor is a sealed, black can with 3 (on rare occasions, 5) copper coated steel tubes and electrical wiring coming out of it. The older models in residential refrigeration were usually about 8 to 10 inches in diameter and 6 to 8 inches high with flat tops. The newer models are smaller in diameter and taller but the refrigerant piping and wiring is basically the same. The refrigerant lines attached to the compressor vary in size according to function. The larger tube is called "The Suction Line" and pulls cold Refrigerant vapor back to the compressor from the "Evaporator". The Evaporator is the coil that gets cold and accomplishes its job of cooling Refrigerators and Freezers by removing the heat in them , not creating cold. That's a subject that requires a large explanation and too much to cover here. One of the remaining smaller tubes pumps out hot gas ( Refrigerant in a gaseous state ), under high pressure to the "Condenser". The condenser is the coil that is always hot and cools the gaseous refrigerant to change it back into a liquid. The third line is "crimped" and "brazed" shut. ( Like solder only harder) . The brazed tube is used by the factory to "Evacuate" ( Remove all the air) and "charge" (Add Refrigerant) the system. It is sometimes called the "Process Line" or "Pigtail". The electrical terminals are normally 3, small, round pins closely grouped together in a triangle and located under a "Bakelite" ( Black, Hard and Brittle, heat resistant Plastic ) cover on the side or top of the compressor. If the Compressor is running normally, it makes a steady hum or higher pitched wining sound. While running, there are several easy tests you can do to see if the system is working the way it should. First, the larger tube from the evaporator should be cool or even cold to the touch. But no ice or snow on it. The smaller tube going to the condenser should be hot and possibly hot enough to burn your forearm. So Be Careful when touching it. The process tube isn't used outside the factory except by one of us service technicians, (possibly), who would install an access valve for checking the refrigerant pressure in the system. The suction pressure determines how cold a refrigerator or freezer will be able to get. The compressor motor and refrigerant compressor are bolted together, mounted in the bottom of the can and then the top half of the can is welded onto the bottom half. (Hermetically sealed). While running, the lower half or so of the can should be cool. The returning refrigerant from the evaporator is used to cool the motor so this temperature is important. The upper half of the compressor should be hot. The cool returning refrigerant from the evaporator is pumped to a high pressure changing it to a gas and then delivered to the condenser. The electrical terminal designations are marked either on the compressor itself under the bakelite terminal cover or on the cover itself. The terminals are marked "R" - "S" and "C". They are the RUN - START and COMMON terminals. The motor needs help to start against the load of the compressor and when the equipment calls for cooling, a relay is used to MOMENTARILY jump the "R" (Run) terminal to the "S" (Start) terminal to give it that extra boost. There are two different types of relays that quickly break the connection between the "R" and "S" terminals when the compressor motor starts. They are called the "Current" and "Potential" relays. The "Current" relay operates from the difference in the amperage pulled by the compressor motor between starting and running. The "Potential" relay operates by the difference in the voltage between starting and running. The current relay pushes directly onto the "R" and "S" terminal pins on the compressor and can often times be seen to have over heated when inspected if the compressor just hums and doesn't start. Also, another quick test is to, "WITH ALL THE POWER OFF !!!!!, pull it off its pins and shake it up and down. It should rattle when shaken. The "Potential" relay is wired to the terminals (Not plugged in) and normally has a start capacitor in the wiring. A start capacitor is round and made of black Bakelite like the electrical terminals. They come in various diameters and heights. When bad, they will sometimes blow out a small hole on its top or show sins of having over heated. The potential relay is more difficult to check and a Technician should be called if you think your problem is in this type of circuit. Trouble shooting from this point on will require us to ask questions in relation to the information above. If you have a question for us, please be as specific as possible using this information as regards the temperatures and look of the things mentioned here. It will help us provide better answers faster with less questions to be answered. I hope this has helped you to understand compressors a little better and how they should operate. Thank you for trusting us to answer your questions. Roger

on Feb 05, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Why is freezer/Frig at 51/59 degrees with both fans running?

Good Morning Friend,

I understand your Frigidaire refrigerator, model# FRT18G6JB6, is not cooling well. I also see that you have checked the gaskets, cleaned the condenser coil, and manually defrosted your refrigerator. I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your appliance and determine why it is not cooling. Hope this is helpful,

-Best Regards-

Jun 23, 2014 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool full size refrigerator el87trrrv02. I noticed it was not cold but blowing air. We pulled it out and began troubleshooting. There was what seemed like too much water in the drain pan, no...

1st fix the timer problem, next if the temp is erratic by-pass the thermostat for 3 ~ 6 hrs and see if the unit continues to drop in temp. Never run the REF on an extension cord. If the evap only gets cold near the cap line could be a system leak.

Oct 30, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator wont get cold

If compressor is running check and make sure your cond. fan and evap fan are running. Also check in freezer and make sure evap. coil is not covered in ice. Also clean your condenser coil. You could be low on refrigerant. There are quite a few things to check.

Nov 01, 2012 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Cabinet flanges and mullion very hot to the touch and not cooling at all, model ed25qf

turn your frig off as soon as possible! this is an easy fix but if it goes to long it can cause permanent damage to the compressor and then you have a huge repair bill, or a big piece of trash :(

What has happened is this:

There is a fan called the condenser fan that blows air across the compressor to keep it cool. This fan has stopped working for some reason and now the compressor is VERY hot. When this happens it stops running and you get zero cold produced.

The reason the mullion is hot is because there is tubing connected to the compressor that is run through this area for condensation prevention purposes. When the condenser fan stops working, this tubing gets much hotter than normal, and that is what you are feeling.

So, replace the condenser fan motor before the compressor gets to hot that it damages itself! If I can be of further help please let me know, good luck friend!

May 25, 2010 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

Whirlpool el7atrrkq01 won't cool

First, please re-check to see if both fans are running, the condenser fan by the compressor and the evap fan in the freezer. Next, empty the freezer and remove the evap cover. look at the evap coils. Are they completly frosted up -- if so, you have a defrost problem - this will cause the condition you describe- IF they are not frosted, are only a few of the passes of coil frosted and some just wet with no frost? Then that means you need some freon. The fact that you have some cooling means that the compressor is probabaly OK.

Sep 01, 2008 | Whirlpool EL7ATRR Refrigerator

2 Answers

Goodman a/c not cooling

It looks like you did make some improvements when you replaced the coil and metering devise. The fact that this system never ran right "out of the box" is suspicious. My first instinct is that the system is either unmatched in size or the whole system is sized incorrectly. Do your Heat gain/Loss calcs and see if it matches close to what is in there, both for the coil and condenser. Secondly double check that the evap you installed is matched the same as the condenser. In some situations the ID coil can be over sized by a 1/2 ton. But that is the only exception and it does not apply to all cases.

If the system is sized and matched correctly, then I would consider the compressor to be the problem.

Jun 28, 2008 | Weather King 10AJA2501AH Air Conditioner

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