Question about Genie Company Genie Excelerator Down Limit Switch Part 33950s

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Just installed a new genie garage door opener. Adjusted both the open and closed magnetic limit switches. Open works fine. Close switch does not stop the door. What could it be switch or circuit board?

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Change the sensor and make sure the magnet comes close enough to activate it. Sometimes I have even changed the magnetic ones for real switches too.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. Interesting you mention a magnet. I don't see one unless its built into the carriage."

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There are two kinds of limit switches used with modern Genie openers. The simpler design has a lever that projects down a couple of inches and activates a simple connection. The fancier design uses magnet(s) hidden in the carrier (the piece that moves when the opener is activated); these magnets activate reed relays in the limit switches, so there are no levers with these units. The simple lever switches are what have been supplied with most openers over the years.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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1 Answer

Garage opener try to close door when door at close position


There are upper and lower limit settings, it sounds like you have the lower limit set to low. Adjust it so it stops the door as it contacts the floor and see if this solves the problem. It is possible these limit controls are damaged and will not stay set. If that is the case it may be best to replace the opener if you cannot find a replacement.

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This is the close limit sensor so yes it should work. They have them for $2.40 right now from an Amazon vendor - http://www.amazon.com/Genie-Excelerator-Close-Switch-33950S/dp/B00283OBXY/ref=?ie=UTF8&m=A1CTO3U79X1RZ3

You can also buy replacement sensors as a 10 pack in case you end up needing more from here -
http://dpcdist.com/flangemountcontactandmagnetendleads.aspx

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Sounds like a problem with the safety photocells, to confirm locate the where the safety input is on the opener and bridge out the terminals ( not the supply voltage terminals) if the door then closes the photocells are the problem.

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IT COULD BE THE SAFETY EYES.

ARE THEY ALIGNED? BOTH LED'S LIT?

YOU MAY HAVE A CABLE OFF OR BENT TRACK.

IS THE SENSITIVITY SET TOO LIGHT?

IF YOU CAN'T SEE A PROBLEM, I WOULD CONSIDER CALLING A PRO THEY CAN NORMALLY FIX A MINOR PROBLEM FOR UNDER $ 100.00. CALL THEM. GIVE THEM A DESCRIPTION OF YOUR PROBLEM. ANSWER A FEW QUESTIONS FOR THEM AND GET A PHONE QUOTE

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How do I reset my garage door opener. It is a Coromaster 2000 motor. The closing and opening setting are out and the motor only stops due to resistance.


The Coromaster 2000 does not operate off limit switches. It has a quarter-revolution optical pulse counter. To re-program the open and close limits do the following: Ensure that the door is open at least a couple of feet. Press the reset button once or twice Short out pushbutton and common and hold until close limit and then release. Door should stop at your new close limit. Wait 5 seconds. Short out pushbutton and common and door will open. Hold the short until open limit and then release. Limits should now be set.

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Sounds like a skinned wire on your front or rear limit switches is touching metal. Go over your low voltage wiring and test again.

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I have similar jerkiness problem and have gone through all the nine yards of possible causes. The motor stops at random position and at random time. Even when I unhook the door from the carriage, it still showed this symptom. It started when I had one torsion spring broken. I replaced both torsion springs and adjusted for weight balance. Make sure the two cables windup properly along the thread of the pulley; Checked the photo eye sensors; checked/test capacitor; cleaned rpm sensor; adjusted all possible force settings; make sure limit switch at sound; re-programmed my remote just to check if the logic board somehow still work on this side and it did;
One important observation I have is that when I adjusted the carriage chain, I've noticed that the opener unit turns off and on as if there's a loose connection/contact. This I pursued more. The more I investigate, I spotted a "tiny" spark on one logic board soldering at the transformer footing as I **** the back panel (where the board is mounted) back and forth to simulate the on/off due to the loose contact observed earlier. This one solves everything! All I had to do is take the logic board out and re-solder that failed connection and Hooray - it fixed the problem!
Hope this helps someone with similar issues,

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1 Answer

Garage door close but motor keeps running


The close setting limit switch needs adjusted. Once it is adjusted it should work just fine.

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