Question about Frigidaire Washing Machines

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I discovered a leak from the bottom of my machine shortly after I had moved it about 6 inches. The supply hoses are not leaking nor can I see a leak coming from the drain hose. At least not from the part of the drain hose I can see. I see that the drain hose goes inside the machine at the bottom left (when looking at the machine from the front). I do not know how to gain access to where the drain hose attaches to the outlet because the bottom of the machine has no access. I saw the two screws that hold the back ot the top door section of the washer but the fromt of the top seems to be held in some other manner. How do I get that door section off so I have access to the inside of the machine and the drain hose?

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What is the make and model # please??

Thanks!!!

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

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1 Answer

The washer is leaking out of the back of it. It is leaking from a black short rubber hose that has a clear plastic flat hose on it.


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

May 20, 2010 | Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My Kenmore 48102 washer is leaking from the bottom and also when it is cycling it makes a whirring noise. We have moved a couple of times and I don't know if I got something loose that lets the water leak...


1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

Replace any valves that are cracked.

Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Apr 28, 2010 | Electrolux Kenmore 3.5 cu. ft. I.E.C....

1 Answer

A pin fell out of the bottom of the washer


The pin is just an alignment pin used during assembly at the factory. You need not worry about it. However the water leaking is a separate issue. The leak could be the pump leaking. But I suspect since that pin was knocked out of it's plastic holder during your move, the suspension traveled enough to damage the hose going from the bottom of the tub to the pump. Come of those hoses were a harder (read cheaper) corrugated plastic instead of rubber. It's an easy fix and I replace those plastic hoses with a rubber one.

Dec 31, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaks water out of bottom


hi friend,
1washingmachine2_thumb.jpg
Evidently you have reason to believe your washer is leaking. Probably there is water on the floor near the machine. Fine, then the first thing is some detective work. with an absorbent hand towel begin to inspect the areas where water enter or leave the washer. Those places are: 1. the hot and cold water inlet hoses located in the back and top of the machine and 2. the washer drain line, located in the back and bottom of the machine.
  • Step 2 One at a time, dry both ends of the hot and cold water hoses. watch for water to bead up. Water may be leaking from more than one place so don't stop with the first leak you find. Inspect all four possible connections and the hose itself. If there is a leak at a hose connection it's an easy fix. shut off the water supply of the leaking hose, unscrew the hose where it leaks and wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threaded or male part of the connection. inspect the flat rubber washer in the female part of the connection. replace if it seems very worn. re-tighten the connection, dry and turn the water back on. check for the leak to return. If the leak in somewhere on the hose itself you will need to buy a new hose. Hot and cold water hoses are marked.
  • Step 3washingmachine3_thumb.jpg Next we need to check the hose where water drains from the washer. It comes from the washer near the floor level and usually inserts a male into the female of the washer hole. It then moves to the drain leaving the house. Again, dry the entire hose. Then you will have to run the washer. Use flashlight and inspection mirror to help you look for a leak during the draining process. If it leaks at the connection to the washer try reinserting and tightening the retaining screws. There usually are no threads to wrap. If that doesn't fix the leak or if you find a leak in the hose itself you will need to replace it.
  • Step 4 If you still have a leak under the washer it is probably in the drain hose between the drain pump and the outside hose or the short hose between the tub and the drain pump. This may be getting out of your level of competence. But if you want to be a Renaissance Man, give it a try.
    Unplug the machine. Now you need access to the bottom of the machine. depending on your brand you may be able to 1)remove the front by inserting a painters scraper and prying the spring snaps up, 2)remove the back by taking out screws and the rear plate or 3)you may have to go in through the bottom. With help tip it over on it's side. of course the machine will need to be empty of clothes and water as it's heavy enough already.
  • Step 5 However you access the inside bottom of the machine you will see a rubber hose coming down from the tub to a small electric drain pump then a plastic line will leave the pump and go to the back of the machine where it will meet up with the drain line you inspected in step 2. With your inspection mirror and flashlight look for water to indicate a leak. These lines are often held on by metal springs and can be moved or adjusted with open jaw pliers. If you find one of these hoses damaged take it off and bring it with you to your appliance store for a replacement.
  • jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); }); Tips & Warnings
    • take digital photos before you remove any part. if you get confused you can use it as reference
    • don't work on the inside of the washer with it plugged in.
    hope this helps u
    please rate me.....................
    thank u for using fixya
    regards
    sivaranjini

    Nov 24, 2009 | Maytag Washing Machines

    1 Answer

    This fill hose is leaking on my maytag a612 washing machine. It is leaking at the little plastic thing that the hose runs through. Is it possible just to bypass whatever that is?


    Hi FordMan! The little thing is the water inlet valve and it is not possible to bypass it, since that is what allows the water to flow into the washer and is what also shuts the water off, once the tub is at the level needed or selected.

    However, you might discover that if you shut off the main water supply valves at the house connection point, you can just tighten the hose connection at the water valve, as it might just be a little bit loose.

    If that's not the problem, remove both the hot and cold water supply hoses from the washer side and replace the rubber washers in the hose ends.

    And if that doesn't resolve the leaking problem, you'll have to replace the water inlet valve to stop the leak. But try the first 2 steps before you move onto replacing the valve.

    If you discover you need a new valve, you can go to www.searspartsdirect.ocm and with the full model number of your washer, locate the replacement valve and see a line drawing of your washer and get the price for the valve. This is an easy repair for most DIYr's to tackle and you should be able to do it, once you've got the parts, in about 20-30 minutes with just a couple of common hand tools. Just remember to unplug the washer before attempting any repair and turn off the water supply connection at the wall near the washer.

    I will suggest, as the manufacturers all do these days, that if your machine is over 8-10 years old, you also replace both the Hot and Cold water supply hoses, as hoses tend to start to break down after 8 years and could rupture causing extensive water damage, etc.

    Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

    Oct 25, 2009 | Maytag SAV4655A Top Load Washer

    1 Answer

    Can't remove front panel on Amana washer


    access through the back panel about 10 screws. Its likely the drain pump or one of its hoses.

    Aug 23, 2009 | Amana ALW480DA Top Load Washer

    3 Answers

    Water leaking from under washing maching


    hi,

    your going to have to study it. put the machine on its side and look for access panels or a whole plate to remove on the bottom or rear. take the panels off and study it while its running, maybe put the machine up on blocks, careful of moving parts of course.
    hopefully it may just be an adjustment with a clamp. also the agititator seal inside the machine may have be bad, pop the cap off the agitator, remove the bolt and pull it straight up and out and study the seal area, might be leaking right down the middle too.

    good luck

    J


    Jun 26, 2009 | Fisher Paykel Eco IWL16

    1 Answer

    Front loading washer smells of mold maybe leaking water


    1. Find out where the leak is coming from. Does it leak constantly or during one part of the cycle?
    A constant leak means the leak is in the valve where the hoses hook to the washer, the supply valves, or the lines to the washer from the water supply.
    The other two options are when the washer is agitating or pumping the water out between cycles.


    2. See if it leaks during both cycles and the test there would be to lift the lid just as it starts to drain and wait to see if the water stops leaking.
    If it doesn't, then run the drain cycle to see if it gets worse or better.
    Results may not be immediate as it would take a few minutes for whatever water there to finish dripping.


    3. Wait until the water has been pumped out, lift the lid and check the drip again.
    When the location of the leak has been determined, unless the washer has been frozen, most leaks can be fixed without parts and just using hand tools.
    If you have an older, top load washer, the back or front will come off so you can observe where the leak is coming from.

    WARNING. You are working with a moving, electrically hot machine that could flood.
    You must take your time and not put your hand or hair in somewhere that can catch you.
    You should not have to get into the upper control center, thus reducing the shock hazard.

    4. Before turning the machine on, remove a cover. On some washers, there are two screws on the bottom L & R front corners that take the front panel loose.
    Once the screws are removed, the front cover is hinged at the top and you simply pull the bottom away from the machine until it comes un-hooked, and set the cover aside.

    There shouldn't be many exposed wires or ends, but a few. Don't touch the terminals or lay something metal in the machine that could fall on the terminals.


    5. Take a flashlight, look for obvious leaks or better, water stains around nuts, hose clamps, etc.
    Most likely you'll see some water residue here and there and that would be normal as a washer is wet. Look for puddles, long white streaks, calcium deposits.
    Most likely, you won't find standing water, but some clues of where you should look when the machine is running.
    Unless this leak is so obivous you can see what's wrong, you don't need to start it and you should repair the problem.
    Once possible areas have been identified, you should start the machine as if you had a load in it and start to watch for the leak.

    WARNING- Make sure you have no tools laying in the machine and you are out of the way. There are spinning parts and live wires once you turn the machine on.
    Stay clear, and watch your hair and hands.

    Once the machine is full and starts its cycle, look for leaks.
    Let the machine do its cycle and as it goes into each part of the cycle, look for the leak.
    Once you find a drip, stop the machine by lifting the lid or pulling out on the control knob, and now observe more closely.
    Remember, water runs down; where it drips is not necessarily the place of origin.

    6 Find the leak and make the needed adjustment (which will be all that is necessary most of the time).
    If it is a part you need, get the make, model number and serial number of the washer and call an appliance parts dealer or repair service if you don't think you can repair the problem.



    If the washing machine leaks water while it is filling, pull it away from the wall and see if the water drips from the inlet hoses or valves as the unit fills.
    If it does, tighten the faucet packing nuts. Then, inspect the hoses and replace them if they have become cracked.
    Also look for cracks in the casing of the inlet valves. Unplug the unit and lift the top to better inspect the valves.

    Replace any valves that are cracked.

    Valves usually crack when the hot water in the house water supply is heated to greater than 170 degrees.
    They also crack if the house is left cold during the water and water is not drained from the unit. A cracked inlet nozzle can leak during fill.
    The leaking water will drip down the outside of the tub and collect under the unit. Be sure that the hose connected to the inlet nozzle is tightly clamped.
    Replace the nozzle if you find cracks in it.

    If the leaking occurs at some time during the wash sequence other than when the machine is filling with water, unplug the unit, remove the back panel and examine the parts under the machine.
    You can make a closer inspection by tipping the unit over onto it's front or side.

    Tighten hose clamps that have become loose. If water is leaking from the pump, replace the pump.

    The gasket between the tub and the splash guard may wear out and leak. To check the gasket, lift the top and remove the snubber and splash guard.
    Replace a worn gasket. A hole in the bottom of the tub can develop.
    If the hole is less than 1/4 inch in diameter, remove the agitator and basket and seal the hole.
    If the hole is larger, replace the washing machine or tub.




    Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

    Jun 24, 2009 | Kenmore 44072 Front Load Washer

    2 Answers

    WATER LEAKING FROM UNDER THE WASHING MACHINE


    follow the hose from where it connects into the washer.. take off that panel and pinpoint leak. more than likely a hose is unattached

    Apr 15, 2009 | GE WWSE5200B Top Load Washer

    2 Answers

    Removing dishwasher


    Washers have a fill line to a small blue valve underneath, there is also a power supply, and drain line hose. Make sure to turn breaker and water supply off, before removal

    Jul 06, 2008 | GE Dishwashers

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