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My Kenmore Dryer heating element will kick off as soon as I connect the vent to the back of the dryer. It will kick off with the vent not connected to the wall just connected to the back of the dryer. The vent is a standard aliminum vent with no obstruction in it.

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Make sure the vent is not bent any were, you can try to put pantie hose on dryer and see if it still shuts down if so it is your heating element getting to hot

Posted on Jan 31, 2010


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Firstly, take off the vent that hook up to the rear of the dryer, if the dryer got heat again. You should clean the vent. Else, there are quite a few component caused no heat. They are: thermal-cut-off (non-resettable), heating element.
Beware to unplug your dryer before opening it. The cut off thermal and heating element can check it connectivity by ohm meter. Normally, the cut-off causes this issue.
Check this link for more information

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Jimbo, this dryer uses a cyling thermostat to turn the heater on and off. If your vent is pinched or clogged, or the vent to the outside is clogged, you are going to have long dry times and damp clothes. Try doing a load with the vent disconnected from the back of the dryer. If everything turns out ok, then it's a venting issue. Catriver

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How do i change the high limit thermostat on a kenmore dryer # 72822

Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Slide the dryer out from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent from the back of the dryer. Loosen the retaining screw on the clamp connecting the vent to the dryer's exhaust port and slide the vent off of the port.
Remove the hex nuts holding the dryer's rear panel in place and slide the rear panel off to the side of the dryer. Locate the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing on the right side of the dryer. The oval-shaped thermostat can be found a few inches from the bottom of the heating element housing.
Unplug the two thermostat wires by sliding them off of the thermostat's contact posts. Slide the old thermostat out of the socket on the heating element housing.

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these dryers have a couple of thermal fuses on the back near the heater element test each thermostat and thermal fuse and heater element to determine which is bad then replace the one that does not ohm out or have connection through them

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Can be several problems: the heat element (coil) can be burned out, one of the over-heat sensors could be bad or overheated and did not reset ( this could be caused by poor air movement through the vent ) check your venting for good air flow. Could be a wiring connection that burned and needs repair because of the hi electric current demaned by the heat element. Goodluck, Macgivor

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if your dryer doesn't heat, check these:----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

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Your dryer may have a failed heating element (if electric), or a dirty burner (if gas). Likely though, the ducting that connects the back of the dryer to the vent is probably partially clogged with lint causing the dryer to overheat and shut heat off. Check the outside vent for lint buildup, pull dryer out and check duct work, also check vent pipe on back of dryer for buildup.

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Several reasonings. Step One make certain that you have 220 volts coming to your outlet. It takes 110 for the motor, and it takes 110 for the heating elements. If you have a volt meter that would be the best way to do that. Take the red and stick it in to the long part, and the black lead to the ground. Fuse houses was bad about this. Step Two it could be the elements are kicking off too soon. That is usually a sign of almost blown element. Step Three the heat sensor for the element prematurely kicking off the element.

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I'm not familiar with your dryer model but general advice regarding dryers with the problem that you have described would be to ensure that any filter on the outlet is clean, whether it be a condenser or traditional external vent.

Ensure, if it is vented rather than condensing (only connected to a drain) that the vent tube has clear access to expel the damp air circulated during the drying process.

If the wash load is heating to a substantial temperature in the dryer, it isn't the element causing the problem.

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are the wires coming in from your cord hooked up right? Cord has 3 wires the middle one is your ground. in the back of dryer where wires go in you'll see three connection points the middle one is your ground. Check that and re-post TY

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