a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
did you hone the bores before fitting new rings ( old glazed bores will not allow new rings to seal properly)
did you space the ring gaps around the piston and not have them all line up ( if the ring gaps were not spaced around the piston , the oil will pass straight up the gap and be burnt in the combustion chamber --alternately the flame of combustion will get to the sump down the gap)
did you take care as to which way up you put the rings on the pistons ( there is a top etched on each ring and if this was not adhered to then the ring edge acts as a scraper and pumps the oil into the combustion chamber . also the compression pressure cannot get behind the ring to force it onto the bore wall
did you fit new bearings to the big ends ( old bearings will allow more oil onto the bore walls and this makes controlling the oil by the oil ring difficult)
did you fit the valve stem seals correctly( if they haven't been fitted correctly then the vacuum from the idling will suck oil past the valve stems
If you missed one or more in the rebuild then that is why you are burning oil
There is a check seal installed around a series of holes drilled into the lower part of the cylinder. The check seal could be a band or oring. It sometimes falls out of place. If broken just use any rubber such as tire tube that will fit snuggly in place. If check seal is in place then make sure that the driver piston does not bind or the piston ring fits too tight or too loose. Driver should move down cylinder with little finger pressure but should not however just drop down the cylinder. Finally, check the lower bumper for cracks and that the metal washer below the bumper fits the driver blade snuggly. If the washer is missing, make a washer out of tire tube and cut a small slot for driver to pass thru. Good luck
If the fuel is leaking into the car you will need the replace the seal on the top on the pump assembly not the seals on the pump itself but before changing the seal just double check the fuel lines are tight and the leak is actually from the fuel splashing out of the tank. The seal your after is referred to as the pump assembly oring ( big rubber oring around the top of the assembly a smear of silcone can be used as a temporary fix but erge you to get it fix properly as soon as possible and fuel fumes in the cabin can be extremely deadly)
Hope this helps
The problem is the o-rings. The diffuser o-ring has to fit tight into the volute to go back together correctly. This is a common o-ring and can be found at any on-line supplier. You will need the model number of your pump and they should be able to help you. (you may also e-mail me your model and i can give you the part number: email@example.com)
As long as you have it open, replace the housing o-ring as well, this will ensure a good seal on the v-clamp once you get it back together. It is a good idea to have these extra two o-rings along with the shaft seal anytime you open the wet end of the pump, just in-case there is bad wear on the current seals.
Causes of piston not retracting are as follows. Cracked /worn bumper, if cracked air will leak between piston and bumper. Try test, remove nails and dry fire gun against rubber or soft wood; depress trigger push gun against wood/rubber and hold in this position. Piston should stay down and no air should leak past nose. Worn piston oring, piston should not slide down cylinder under its own weight. Loose or missing check seal, remove cylinder and look for black rubber band around series of holes. Band should be in place and fit snuggly. Good luck
Long story short, it will leak from under the screw cap (rarely) and from the rubber ring around the puncture pin. The grounds clog the metal filter and creates pressure that escapes from under that rubber ring. I cut a thin styrofoam plate to fit under the screw cap. It's really snug for the first few times, then it will loosen up. Second is to tighten the seal between the top of the 'my cup' and that rubber seal. I used 2 styrofoam rings that sit between the 'my cup' and the hard plastic it sits on when you fit it in the hole. It bring the cup like 1/8 inch higher to the pin and increases that seal. I made many cups after that and it has never leaked. I'm looking for a good rubber ring to fit around the 'my cup' to replace the rings for the seat.
The cotton bag wraps around the hepa filter - the blue plastic part will not be visible once the bag is in place. The silver ring sits inside the cotton bag to hold the sides of the bag against the sides of the vacuum top-half. DON'T pull the plastic inner seal and outer seal apart. They snap together and snap onto the lip of the vacuum top-half. It's a bit of a struggle snapping the seal back onto the lip.
When you open the machine door, you will see a manufacturer's badge. Record the model number and call around to order the door seal from your local parts vendors. Have the replacement seal ready when you are changing the seal. If you remove the seal and then go to source it, then you might not remember how it was put on initially.
To replace door seal, First turn off machine and unplug from its power source.
Next remove top lid. Two screws in the back of the top lid and you can slide the lid back and up to remove. See if you have a clear view of the door seal from above the machine and see how it is joined to the drum mouth. There would be a metal ring holding it in place. Locate the screw which tightens it and unscrew it to loosen the ring.
Next the wire ring which you have already seen on the front of the seal needs to be removed. These are normally spring loaded. Feel around the ring until you get to the spring tensioner. With a flat screw driver, stretch the spring to pull the ring out from around the seal.
Now observe how the door seal is clipped around the front panel of the machine. The seal has a groove which fits snug agains the rim of the front panel. You can now remove the seal by pulling around the edge.
Now go back to the top of the machine and do a similar thing to remove the seal from around the drum. Make sure you observe how it had fitted on originally, and also observe if there are any differences between the top and bottom of the seal where it sits on the door. There normally is a difference.
When replacing the seal in the reverse manner, make sure you fit the seal correctly around the lips of the drum and the front panel. make sure you also correctly tighten and refit the rings to hold the seal in place.
Once you have finished run a couple of quick cycles without cloths, to make sure there are no leaks and that the seal is fitted properly.
The spacer plate (called a wear ring) should indeed be installed between the front plate and the impellor. The wear ring should be installed the correct way around, with the flat face against the front plate. Assuming that you're fitting the front plate correctly each time (it only fits on one way) there shouldn't be any issues. I can only assume that you have either fitted the incorrect impellor or it hasn't been tightened fully onto the motor shaft.