Question about Desa International CBN20T Heater

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Wall mounted CBN30T, pilot goes out

I have a wall mounted CBN30T,I just started using last week, it works for about 20 25 mins. So I cleaned it, wiped the dust off everything and compressed air.

When I cleaned it I took the glass plate off. Which seemed to help more than anything. When I put it on the pilot flame chokes, it will try to stay lit but generally cuts off after a few mins, the thremocoupler doesnt seem to turn it off, I think the pilot flame goes out, which triggers the coupler to shut the valve and then the whole thing turns off. Since Ive cleaned it, and left the plate off, it works 30 mins to an hour.

Is the gas/air mixture off?
Would that cause the pilot flame to struggle to stay lit?
It doesnt last long at all with glass plate on, making me think it needs more oxygen to stay lit properly.
Perhaps the pilot should somehow be aimed more into the burner flame? so that the burner flame keeps the pilot lit. (Ive seen the burner reignite the pilot several times, which is why I think the pilot light is the source of the problem.)
Im renting, landlord is nice enough, can call the the right people if need be, but Id rather get warm asap, and I like doing things myself.

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IF its balance flue it could be blocked . Burner or orifice blocked lack of air to pilot slightly blocked thermocouple defective .

Posted on Mar 04, 2017


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SOURCE: I have a blue flame GLO WARM 20btu wall model # WMP20A

Look for and clean the flame sensor.

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  1. You can try repositioning the thermostat bulb.
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SOURCE: I have a glow warm 20000 btu natural gas unvented

well, these heaters are typically thermostat-bound, and I have found that they simply will not burn continuously, like a blue-flame heater. Try turning up the setting--this will make it come on/off more often, effectively heating at least one med-lg room, and partially for adjoining areas. Keep in mind that these only rated for 700-1500 SF--that is NOT the floor measurements, but square feet of airspace; eg., a 10' x 15' room has 10' x 15' x 8' (8 foot ceiling) =1200 sf. That said, My 15k btu wall unit had been the sole heating source for my entire home for 5 years, until last year, when I acquired another smaller unit. However, I typically only use a few rooms, and shut off unused areas (ya, was 'cool' in unused back room areas).

Posted on Jan 19, 2011

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I am having a problem with a cbn 30t wall mount heater with the front cover off the unit works fine when the front cover goes on the pilot flame gets erratic then goes out. if I have the front cover on and...

I worked on plenty of them. Usally it is the termocoupling needs replace. It's easy to replace and you can pick that up at Fagers, Michells, or a heating and plumbing store.

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My heater, modle # cbn30t when I turn the pilot light on and ignite the fire it works for about 30 seconds and then stops, is this common and does anyone know how to fix it?

One possibility is that theThermo Couple is beginning to fail'
What is a Thermo Couple? (TC)
The Thermo Couple (TC) is a small Rod-shaped device with a couplewires coming out the bottom.
The TC actually generates a small electrical current from the heat ofthe Pilot.
This electrical current is sensed by the controlboard, or the Main Gas Valve.
As long as there is a pilot, it is safefor the Main gas valve to open, and admit the large amount of gas into theheating burner.

Now-- What helps this TC work the best?
It needs to be just at the edge of the pilot flame--- Not too muchin the flame, or the resulting poor combustion of the pilot flame, results insoot forming on the TC-- which insulated the TC from sufficient heat.
Obviously the TC has to be clean (of soot) in order to receive enoughheat, to generate the needed voltage to tell the valve that it is safe to open.
And age does deteriorate the TC-- some last a few years, but thatis about the end of life for most.
Replacing requires getting down where the TC is, and with a screwdriver (usually)-- loosening the bracket that holds the TC. Payattention to where the wires are routed, and any polarity indicated on the oldwires, and duplicate on the new one. Duplicate routing, and polarity, andposition the new TC at the edge of the pilot flame.
Pilot flame is maintained by pushing some over ride button-- for aminute or two, until when you begin to release the button, you can feel thatthe voltage generated by the TC is now holding the pilot valve open, instead ofyour pressure on the 'start' button.

Any further Questions, let us know..

Mack B

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1. Try holding the knob longer
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My Mom has a 1965 Gaffler & Stattler Mark 21 wall mount oven, it had the "Same Problem", People may tell you that the flame switch is no longer avalible but I found a universal fit flame switch at Applance Parts Center, I took the old part in and had it matched up, with a minor modification to the thermal sensor mounting bracket, "drilling a larger hole and lightly crimping it", it's a perfect fit, "problem solved". You may want to try cleaning the pilot light area with a small wire brush first, if that dosn't work try a jumper wire on the two terminals of the flame switch, if that works then replace the flame switch.
This operation can be done without removing the oven from the wall mount, just remove the two screws from the panel at the inside rear of the broiler, you will find the flame switch behind the panel it has two screws two wires a thermo leed and a sensor tip that goes up to the thermo sensor mounting bracket above the pilot light, the thermo sensor mounting bracket has one screw and a nut behind it, you will also need to remove one end of the 1/4" pilot gas pipe in order to remove the thermo sensor mounting bracket, When your done puting it back togather, check for gas leaks using soapy water in a spray bottle, a dish soap solution works great, also check your vent pipe connections.
After I cleaned the dust and grease out of this old thing, the 45 year old clock and timer started working again.
My Mom is very happy, try and find new oven to fit the cutout and vent, we saved a lot of $$$,
"Good Luck".

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ODS Demo

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