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Turn on, nothing happens . Heater element and hi limit replaced, no heat. Reversed wires on heater element, it turned on, then just shut off, and nothing ....checked circuit breakers at bos, nothing tripped, but no power to dryer motor now....

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There should be fuses in the back of dryer check them

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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1 Answer

95 hot springs soverigon burnt wire


heaters and stoves use elements that heat up,and it does require the wires with matching resistance,that wire if u check it heats up if u replace it thats y it breaks,try a thicker wire for the resistance

Jan 26, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Start shut down


follow this steps and use the Voltmeter, and fix it. God bless you
oubleshoot a thermostat:
  1. Shut off power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
  3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
  4. Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
  5. Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
  6. If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.
Test and replace a heating element:
  1. Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
  3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
  4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
  5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
  6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
  7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.

Some elements is in Short circuit, test the procedure before

Oct 09, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

If everything else works why wont the heat come on. the water is still hot and the ac and the fan works but no heat


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

Troubleshoot a thermostat:
  1. Shut off power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
  3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
  4. Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
  5. Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
  6. If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.
Test and replace a heating element:
  1. Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
  3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
  4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
  5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
  6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
  7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.

Oct 08, 2013 | White Rodgers Water Heaters

1 Answer

Had hot water this morning, then a leak in public water lines about block away, caused pressure drop. No hot water. Shut breaker off, and found 2 safety thermal shut-offs (couldn't tell if they had been...


It is possible that when pressure dropped from city supply that it created syphon and sucked water from your heater back into city lines. This could have caused unit to burn out heating element. I don't know if your unit has any backflow prevention to prevent this from happening.If you can I would suggest that you check incoming power to your heater. It should be around 240 volts. I also would check reset or limit switches again. Hope this helps. Thanks

Nov 06, 2010 | Stiebel Eltron Electric Tankless Water...

2 Answers

No heat and believe it to be the thermal fuse on kenmore dryer 63


Unplug it, remove the back, f73a9b7.jpg1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic) the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat AND you have
checked the element and found it to be good. 2. heater assembly.
3. 250f limit (if bad no heat, timer won't advance)
4. heater element
5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run.
(if you do not have a meter remove and inspect this heater coil for breaks).
6. control thermostat
7. heater (warms thermostat to shut it down faster for delicates)

Apr 13, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

No heat, but dryer turns.


There are three common causes of a dryer not heating. First is a busted heating element. Second, the thermal cut-off has blown. Third, the high limit thermostat is not working.

Disconnect power to the machine and remove the screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel (toe panel) holding it in place. Pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You now have access to the heating circuit.

Remove the heater shield by removing its mounting screw and pulling it off the heater housing.

The heater terminal block is located at the left opening of the heater housing. Disconnect the wire from one of the heater terminals and measure the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter set to X1. The resistance should read 7.8 -11.8 ohms. Replace the heating element if the resistance reads open.

Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element and remove the screw securing it to the heater housing. Slide the busted heating element out of the housing and install the new heating element. Secure it with the screw and put the terminal block in place. Connect the heater wires and reinstall the heater shield.

Slide the lower front access panel up into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

Feb 28, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How to replace heating element on dryer model #96282100


This is a fairly simple procedure. Just follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present even with the dryer turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear and remove the exhaust vent hose.

3. Locate and remove the screws around the perimeter of the dryer back panel and remove panel.

The dryer heating circuitry will be located on the right hand side (as viewed form the rear). The heating circuits consist of the following components:

Heating Element - (part number 660982)
*Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - (part number 279769 includes the Hi-Limit Thermostat).

*If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is determined to be defective it is recommended that you replace BOTH parts at the same time. That's why they are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

The heating element is located inside the heater box. The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

Searspartdirect.com has an excellent exploded view diagram of all these components. Just type in your model number and locate the following under the "bulkhead" section:

TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat - Item 1
Heating Element - Item 14
Hi-Limit Thermostat (by itself) - Item 34

The reason I mention all these components is because if you have not confirmed the heating element to be defective, you may actually have a blown TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat. Its easy to assume a bad heating element if the dryer fails to heat, but it may or may not be the cause. Just some additional things to consider, that's all. These components cost less than a heating element too. If you have determined the heating element is bad, then continue with the following:

4. Disconnect the leads to the heating element and locate the screws that hold the heater box in place.

5. Locate the screws on the outside of the heater box that hold the element in place. You may also have to remove the TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat.

6. Once the screws are removed, the heating element will slide out of the heater box. The element fits tight and it may require a little effort.

7. Once the defective element is removed, install the new one by sliding it inside the heater box. Make sure you align the screws holes.

8. Reinstall the remaining components and reinstall the heater box.

The rest is self-explanatory.

NOTE: A good heating element will read approximately 9 to 13 ohms. Make sure you disconnect any leads before taking any measurements to ensure accuracy of your readings.

The following link explains a good portion of what I've already explained to you, but it may help as well:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention the section that discusses proper air flow. The majority of all dryer heat related problems are attributed to poorly installed, kinked, clogged or crushed exhaust vent ducting. If you haven't thoroughly inspected the dryer and ducting recently, now may be a good time to do so. Otherwise, any components you replace will fail prematurely. Not to mention, a clogged dryer is also a fire hazard.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.

Oct 20, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Oven not heating


if that hi limit is bad or tripped you wont get heat.the hi limit should sit near the heater if not in it.if you find this is tripped your thermostat could be faulty.from the schematic try to trace the wires from the heater to the hi limit and then jump it out.let me know.

Dec 11, 2007 | Maytag MER5755QAS CleanDesign Electric...

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