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Friedrich Mini-Split system with dead-band problem

I have a Friedrich MW12Y1F/MR12Y1F That seems to heat and cool just fine, but cuts in and out too frequently. The on time seems reasonable, but the off time is as short as three or four minutes. The apartment where it's installed is well insulated and sized to match the unit's output. I've installed it exactly in accordance with the installation instructions with regard to "clearances" and so forth. The problem is what I would compare to a "dead-band" problem - it's too short. I've spoken with a Friedrich support person - not much help here. Other strange characteristics: To get a (heated) room temperature of around 72-73 degrees, I have to set the remote down to 68 degrees. The "dead-band" problem is also the same for cooling mode - short off time. During installation, one of the flared fittings failed and I had a service technicial repair the fitting and add R410A. I made certain that he added a dryer since the system had been "opened," knowing how "hydroscopic" the R410A compatible lubricants are. Could the service tech have added too much refrigerant? Could the thermister be faulty? I have checked around the indoor unit for drafts and everything is fine. The Friedrich tech claimed there was no way to adjust the dead-band? Could I add mass to the thermister "bead" to effect it's characteristics? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • lwdarnell Jan 31, 2010

    In my original post, I used the term "hydroscopic;" that should have been "hygroscopic."



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: Indoor unit temperature between 60F & 70F after R22 charge..

If anything, it appears undercharged. Purging is not recommended. @90 degrees the high side corresponding pressure is 168.4 and Low side coresponding numbers re70psi/68degrees. With all due respect to the tech I think . If your room temp is 80, the corresponding high aide pressure is 143.6 , Low side 85 psi Yup, undercharged. Now do me a favor and don't start any "but he said" wars going. If anything, Just call him back and tell him something is still not right. Ask him to bring you a pocket rergerence for temp/pressure relationships. The numbers I gave you are for R-22 which is commonly used in residential applications. Well, good luck and keep your cool. IDon't purge. R-22 is very expensive asis everything else. You may want to dispute anny additional service call charges. Good Luck

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: split system outside unit won't come on for cooling, only heating

Check your filters, dog hair and lack of maintenance will definitely burden the cooling mode of the Mr Slim units.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Fujitsu AOU24CL fails to cool towards evening timeframe.

Hi Hal,
Yes the outdoor temperature is defintely affecting your ability to cool with this unit. I have had the same problem with some Mitsubishi units cooling server rooms in banks. Below 0 they don't want to work, the refrigerant shrinks to the point where the system thinks it has lost it's charge and shuts down.
The way to get around it is to either add more charge to the system, which will have to be removed in warmer weather. Not a fun thing to have to dotwice a year....
Or slide cardboard in front of part of the outdoor coil to raise the head pressure slightly... this will also have to be removed in warmer weather to keep the head pressure down enough in warm weather. It is kinda like the truck drivers do to get heat in the cold weather. Only you want to stop some of the heat from escaping and lowering your pressure in your system too much.Partially boxing in the whole unit will also work. A lot of grocery stores will partially box in all of their units in very cold weather...
You will need to see what is the best fix for you, but you have some things you can try now...

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!


Posted on Dec 11, 2009

  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: installed new LG 18000 btu mini split heat pump,

a heat pump is a finely tuned machine that can be very efficient yet very frustrating at times. I could give you better advice if I were looking at the unit but hear are some things that may help. The unit has a defrost mode that cycles every 30,60,or 90 minutes. If you take the cover off of the condensing unit and near the top you will see the adjustor. unless you live in arctic or very humid cilimates, it should not be set to 30 min. Also the unit may be low on refrigerant. you can check this with a thermometer. put the therm. on the hot gas line(big one) and it should be 110 degrees hotter than the outside temp. Insulate the point of contact around the therm. and gas line. Also, your aux. heat may not be coming on to supplement the heat from the pump. i.e. the fusable link could have burned up and the heating element wouldnt be coming on(elec. models). there are too many variables and combinations of problems that could cause this.

Posted on Dec 24, 2009

  • 407 Answers

SOURCE: problem with mitsubishi air roof units

The thermostat would need to be insulated better from the air that is surrounding it. Im assuming that the thermostat is located on the wall unit where it blows out the air. This could mean that it is actually reading more from the outside temp, than whats inside the house. Another thing to consider is the location of the thermostat, even it being close to anything in the house that produces some kind of heat will effect the condition of the air. If anything, its the manufacturers mistake if it was properly installed in the first place and if defective, they should replace it. hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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