Question about Whirlpool GH7155XHS Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Power switch is faulty for microwave operation,fan and light. Microwave does not start when door is closed and start button is pushed, stops during operation and same occurs for fan and light. Clock continues to function well

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,047 Answers

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix - see this file) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

POwer switch - positivelock.jpg

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.


There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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Troubleshooting Guide


  • Problem: Totally dead oven.
    Possible causes:
    1. No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or GFCI).
    2. Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Clock needs to be set before other functions will operate (some models).

  • Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
    Possible causes:
    1. Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety interlock not engaged).
    2. Any number of screwups. :)

  • Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
    Possible causes:
    1. Door is not closed (some models).
    2. You waited to long (open and close door to wake it up).
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Defective interlock switches.
    5. Faulty controller or its power supply.
    6. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    7. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
    Possible causes:
    1. Damaged interlock assembly.
    2. Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.

  • Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac or relay.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.

  • Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective controller or its power supply.
    2. Broken display panel.
    3. Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).

  • Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    3. Defective controller or its power supply.
    4. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    5. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    6. Defective sensor (particulalry covection/mirowave combos).

  • Problem: Erratic behavior.
    Possible causes:
    1. Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
    2. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    3. Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
    4. Defective controller or its power supply.
    5. Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
    6. Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
    7. Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.

  • Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or perform the wrong action.
    Possible causes:
    1. Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
    2. Defective/damaged touchpad.
    3. Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
    4. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START button.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective START button.
    2. Faulty interlock switches.
    3. Door is not securely closed.
    4. Faulty controller.
    5. You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!

  • Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
    2. Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
    3. Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
    4. Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron filament.
    5. Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
    6. Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
    2. Faulty relay or triac.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective door interlock switch(s).
    2. Interlock switch knocked out of position.
    3. Misaligned door.

  • Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting to cook.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
    2. Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
    3. Shorted winding in HV transformer.
    4. Frayed insulation on HV wiring.

  • Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt carbonized food deposits.
    2. Exposed sharp metal edges.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
    2. Shorted HV capacitor.
    3. Shorted HV diode.
    4. Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
    5. Defective triac.
    6. Old age or power surges.
    7. Defective HV transformer.
    8. Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.

  • Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook cycle).
    Possible causes:
    1. Defective triac (doesn't turn off properly).
    2. Defective relay.
    3. Shorting wires.

  • Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
    Possible causes:
    1. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is closed.
    Possible causes:
    1. Shorted relay or triac.
    2. Faulty controller.

  • Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
    Possible causes:
    1. Low line voltage.
    2. Magnetron with low emission.
    3. Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
    4. Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
    5. Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
    6. Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).

  • Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
    Possible causes:
    1. Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
    2. Overheating due to bad magnetron.
    3. Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
    4. Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
    5. Faulty controller.
    6. Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
    7. Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.

  • Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
    Possible causes:
    1. Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
    2. Vibrating sheet metal.
    3. Vibrating transformer laminations.
    4. Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.

  • Problem: Oven light does not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Burnt out bulb :-).
    2. Bad connections.

  • Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
    Possible causes:
    1. Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
    2. Loose or broken belt.
    3. Bad motor.
    4. Bad thermostat.
    5. Bad connections.

on Mar 30, 2008 | Kenmore 80412 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

I have a NNSD297 Panasonic over the range microwave oven. First the unit had power, clock , timer, fan was working; except after hit the start button, maybe 2 secs looked like working then stops operating....


Make sure that the program controller is working if not check power - step down supply, the pads are responding- if not faulty pads- or the door switches, if the switch contact are not good then it will not trigger the processor to switch on the waveguides. If the lights or fan work without any display or action of program being triggered to start then it can be a possible fault on the main board or the processor. Sometimes insect secretion can short the board and display panel and so the processor can work in such an erratic manner. If so clean, solder and reset the board. Now identify the parts by clicking this link: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/141/identifying-microwave-parts.html

If there is no heating please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron. Check this link to know how a microwave works:

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/microwave/a/5/1443/how-a-microwave-oven-works.html

Feb 11, 2013 | Panasonic Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Hotpoint RVM1435 when I push start button will not start unit?


Hello :

It could be bad door switch or loose door switch mount . There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly .


WARNING : A microwave oven is capable of giving you a serious electrical shock, even when it is unplugged. I strongly recommend you seek the assistance of an appliance repair technician when conducting any microwave oven repair .

good luck .

please rate !

 

Mar 30, 2010 | Hotpoint RVM1435 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Microwave blows the fuse when you push the start button on the panel


This will be either a faulty door interlock switch or High voltage component. You will need to remove the outer cover after first disconnecting power. Discharge the high voltage capactitor!
Check the door switches are operating correctly if so move on to the high voltage components starting with the transformer

Dec 28, 2009 | Panasonic NN-P295SF Microwave Oven

1 Answer

MIcrowave runs with the door open also


your door switch is mis-adjusted,furthermore the other safety switch on the door should have blown the power fuse in the unit,because by design for safety it produces a short circuit if door opens under operation,so if door was taken off and replaced it was not adjusted properly

Aug 15, 2009 | Sanyo EM-P790 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

Microwave oven only operates if the door is held closed


If the microwave oven operates with the door open it is a serious issue. DO NOT OPERATE IT. Call a technician immediately. The RF frequency is extremely dangerous. the safety switches inside the oven are malfunctioning and needs to be replaced

Jul 03, 2009 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Microwave not working


HI, this is a faulty control panel. replace asap if possible.

May 29, 2009 | Whirlpool Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Microwave will not heat


Q - The microwave makes a loud "hum or buzz" noise but will not heat up the food?
A - 9 times out of 10 this is usually this is a bad magnetron, the other time is sometimes a bad high voltage diode. See components section.
Q - My microwave is running and sounds like it is working but will not heat up anything.
A - Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....
 Q - The microwave display counts down and the inside light is on,  but nothing is heating and the fan is not running.
A - This most commonly is a bad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.
Q - The fan in my microwave oven is not running will this hurt my microwave?
A - YES, the fan cools the magnetron and electronics, take the microwave in for service, most fans are not too expensive to replace.
Q - My microwave blows the fuse inside itself as soon as I push the start button.
A - Usually a shorted high voltage capacitor...see components section.



Mar 06, 2009 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

1 Answer

No heat, does not cook


Q - The microwave makes a loud "hum or buzz" noise but will not heat up the food?
A - 9 times out of 10 this is usually this is a bad magnetron, the other time is sometimes a bad high voltage diode. See components section.
 
 
Q - My microwave is running and sounds like it is working but will not heat up anything.
A - Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay.....
 
Q - The microwave display counts down and the inside light is on,  but nothing is heating and the fan is not running.
A - This most commonly is a bad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.
 Q - My microwave went dead when I opened the door ( same problem as closed the door ).
A - This often is a stuck or faulty door switch and it has blown the interior microwave fuse.
 
 
Q - My microwave is completely dead.
A - House fuse has blown or interior fuse inside the microwave has blown ( usually a part inside the microwave makes this fuse blow ) Sometimes a bad fuse holder inside the microwave cannot hold the fuse tight enough and the fuse will blow as well. 
 
 
Q - The fan in my microwave oven is not running will this hurt my microwave?
A - YES, the fan cools the magnetron and electronics, take the microwave in for service, most fans are not too expensive to replace.
 
 
Q - My microwave blows the fuse inside itself as soon as I push the start button.
A - Usually a shorted high voltage capacitor...see components section.

Mar 01, 2009 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

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