Question about Samsung Refrigerators
I have a Samsung Side by side refrigerator. The refrigerator side does not stay cold. The evaporator coil frosts up and then the air is not able to flow through. To fix it i take of the back, defrost the coil and then it will work for about 5 days.
I have replaced the fan, thermostat, and heat sensor to no avail. The refrigerator hums and then stops so it appears that part is working. It just won't defrost the evaporator.
Hi, I am not sure what all has been said on this post, since we don't always get to see the other technicians advice, but here is mine. Your defrost heater in your refer section, is an integrated evaporator/defrost heater. We have seen way too many of these fail, as it is a poor design to run two heaters on two evaporators the way Samsung does. Luckily for you, if your refrigerator is under five years old, you have a five year freon system repair. And since you cannot replace the heater without replacing the freon system evaporator, this is under warrantee for the five years. The only problem is finding a Samsung warrantee company that will do this for you. Call Samsung and see if there is a servicer in your area. If this is out of warrantee then your machine is not worth repairing, usually a 900 to 1100.00 repair in my area of Seattle. This problem you have, can also be a bad main control board or wiring, but this is pretty rare. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
Have you checked the defrost control and the heating unit and made sure its defrosting the evap coil,you hadn't posted that you did this,also check the doors for air leaks from outside warm air getting into compartments which will condense and freeze
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located on the back i.
Your electronic control is part 6 on this diagram. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5177266&diagram_id=1342962#d1342962
Posted on Feb 04, 2010
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Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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