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Drive sprocket and bearing damaged, looking for spares and how to assemble.

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Any Husky dealer can get you the parts you need and most likely will have them in stock

Posted on Jan 30, 2010


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1 Answer

When do you change a camshaft sprocket in a subaru

It's is extremely unusual to have to change a sprocket unless these is significant wear or other obvious damage. What does get changed is the belt, idler bearings, and most importantly, the tensioner assembly. There are full parts kits for this.

Jul 01, 2014 | 2009 Subaru Impreza

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Razor MX650

It is the rear freewheel assembly causing the problem. if is fixable, but you have to be good with tools, the bicycle shop and the electric bike shop both said they couldn't fix it, but is is doable. 1. you need a special bmx tool that fits that back wheel, your local bike shop should have it in stock. 2. you need to remove the freewheel sprocket and disgard it along with the the bearings (make sure to unscrew the razor chain sprocket from the freewheel assembly and secure it for reuse). 3. either purchase a new freewheel sprocket for bmx wheel or remove one from a old bike (again you will a special tool for that). 4. screw the razor chair sprocket onto the new BMX sprocket (it goes on with the same 4 original screws, right over the sprockets. 5. Screw the freewheel back onto the rim now. tada its fixed.




Jun 03, 2012 | Razor MX650 Electric DirtBike

1 Answer



It is most definitely a transmission code.

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

If there is a whine/whirring sound, it may be due to drive sprocket support bearing fluting and/or bearing failure.

Replace the drive sprocket support bearing. Inspect the channel plate and drive sprocket for any abnormal wear, Turbine shaft for cut seals and/or nicks, and chain for excessive play due to failed bearings.

When installing the new bearing, the part number MUST be visible (facing upward). Before installing the drive sprocket, lubricate the bearing assembly with J 36850 assembly lubricant.

Service Parts Information
Part Number = 24214158
Description = Drive Sprocket Support Bearing

I hope this helps!


Dec 15, 2011 | 1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette

1 Answer

Timing chain 96 maxima broke

Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.

Oct 14, 2011 | 1996 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

I own a 96 fireblade and when you ride very slow at about 2-3000 revs and shut the throttle you get a lot of slack and a knocking sensation you can feel it threw the foot pegs its also bad at 6-8000 revs...

Ok, clutch slip,would not be noticable when you back off the throttle so mutch, you would mainly notice slip when accelarating as the engine speed would increase but not your actual speed, as if you hadn,t let go of the clutch fully
Is the noise noticable through all the gears? Does. The bike jurke when the noise is present?
If it does i would check these items externaly.
The condition of the drive chain, rotate the wheel and check for missing rolers from the chain links, remove front sprocket cover, and observe the sprocket for broken or missing teeth. Also check if the sprocket has exsess play as if the bolt were loose, if so remove and check shaft condition for dammaged splines, next look at the rear sprocket for broken or worn teeth, missalignment and tension, all fixing bolts, next grab the sprocket firmly top and bottom pull to and fro as if you were pulling from the outer and not in a rotation , you are now looking to see if the bearing in the carrier on the rear wheel has failed any exses movment would mean replacing the bearing, this would contribute to vibration, if this is ok press the chain downwards check to se if the engine moves, sometimes engine bolts become loose and vibration would again be evident, check engine subframe for damage cracking etc. Vibration can also derive from front and rear wheel bearings giving a visible vibration in footrests and handlebars in extreme cases, good luck my bet is chain and sprocket, poss carrier bearing, paul

May 01, 2011 | 1999 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade

1 Answer


Try Chilton's or All Data for instructions. This is a 4.5 -5 hour ordeal for a professional and a 2 day mess for an amateur. Plus you must remove the timing belt on the 2.4L 4 Cylinder to get to the pump. Mess up here and you can damage your engine. WATER PUMP is sign with the ITEM 5 in the next diagram...


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
This procedure requires removing the engine timing belt and the auto tensioner. The factory specifies that the timing marks should always be aligned before removing the timing belt. Set the engine at TDC on No. 1 compression stroke. This should align all timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and both camshaft sprockets.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle to a level that allows access from above and below.
  2. Remove the right inner splash shield.
  3. Remove the accessory drive belts.
  4. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain the cooling system.
  5. Support the engine using a floor jack and block of wood, then remove the right motor mount.
  6. Remove the timing belt, tensioner and camshaft sprockets.

WARNING With the timing belt removed, DO NOT rotate the camshaft or crankshaft, or damage to the engine could occur.

  1. Remove the rear timing belt cover to access the water pump.
  2. Remove the water pump attaching bolts.
  3. Remove the water pump.

Fig. 1: Water pump location on the cylinder block-4-cylinder engines

Fig. 2: Water pump assembly-4-cylinder engines

To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces. Replace the water pump if there are any cracks, signs of coolant leakage from the shaft seal, loose or rough turning bearings, a damaged impeller or sprocket, or a loose or damaged sprocket flange.
  2. Install a new rubber O-ring into the water pump.
Make sure the O-ring is properly seated in the water pump groove before tightening the screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause damage to the O-ring and cause a coolant leak.

  1. Install the water pump and tighten the bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
  2. Using a cooling system pressure tester, pressurize the cooling system to 15 psi and check for leaks. If okay, release the pressure and continue the engine assembly process.
  3. Rotate the water pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
  4. Install the rear timing belt cover.
  5. Install the camshaft sprocket(s), timing belt and tensioner. DO NOT allow the camshafts to turn while the sprocket bolts are being tightened, in order to maintain timing mark alignment.

WARNING Do not attempt to compress the tensioner plunger with the tensioner assembly installed in the engine. This will cause damage to the tensioner and other related components. The tensioner MUST be compressed in a vise.

  1. Install the timing belt covers.
  2. Install the right engine mount bracket and engine mount.
  3. Remove the floor jack and wood block from underneath the engine.
  4. Install the crankshaft damper.
  5. Install the right inner splash shield.
  6. Lower the vehicle.
  7. Install and tension the accessory drive belts.
  8. Refill the cooling system using the correct quantity and type of coolant. Bleed the cooling system.
  9. Start the engine and check for proper operation.
  10. Check and top off the cooling system, if necessary.
2.5L Engine
See Figures 3 through 7

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Place a large drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Drain and properly contain the engine coolant.
This procedure requires removing the engine timing belt and the auto tensioner. To help assure proper alignment at assembly, it may be helpful to set the engine at TDC on No. 1 compression stroke. This should align all timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and both camshaft sprockets.

  1. Remove the accessory drive belts and crankshaft damper.
  2. Remove the right engine mount. This requires safely supporting the engine with a floor jack and wood block so the mount can be removed.
  3. Remove the timing belt covers.
  4. Remove the timing belt and tensioner.

Fig. 3: Remove the water pump mounting bolts

Fig. 4: Pull the water pump assembly off of the engine and inlet pipe

Fig. 5: Open the water pump housing and examine for cracks or damage

Fig. 6: Replace the water pump housing gasket using a scraper tool

Fig. 7: Always keep the water pump's mounting bolts lined up with their correct mounting holes

  1. Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  2. Separate the water pump from the water inlet pipe and remove the pump.
To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces. Inspect the pump for damage or cracks, signs of coolant leakage at the vent, and excessive looseness or rough turning bearings. Any problems require a new pump.
  2. Install a new O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Wet the O-ring with water to make installation easier. DO NOT use oil or grease on the O-ring.
  3. Install a new gasket on the water pump and fit the pump inlet opening over the water pipe. Press the assembly together to force the pipe into the water pump.
  4. Install the water pump-to-engine bolts and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  5. Install the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Set the timing belt tension.
  6. Install the timing belt covers. Install the right engine mount. Remove the floor jack and engine block from underneath the engine.
  7. Install the crankshaft damper.
  8. Install the accessory drive belts and set to the proper tension.
  9. Connect the negative battery cable.
  10. Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.
  11. Start the engine and verify proper operation, with no leaks.

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Feb 01, 2011 | 1999 Dodge Stratus

2 Answers

It has a code of PO742. It feels like you are

P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On

TSB #00-07-30-007A: Whine Noise in Park or Neutral, Service Engine Soon or Service Vehicle Soon Lamp Illuminates (Replace Drive Sprocket Support Bearing) - (Jan 30, 2002)
Subject: Whine Noise In Park Or Neutral, Service Engine Soon or Service Vehicle Soon Lamp Illuminates (Replace Drive Sprocket Support Bearing)

1999-2000 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue/Ultra, Regal, Riviera
1999-2000 Chevrolet Lumina, Monte Carlo, Venture
2000 Chevrolet Impala
1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
1999-2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette
1999-2000 Pontiac Bonneville, Grand Prix, Montana with 3.4L, 3.5L or 3.8L Engine (VINs E, H, K, 1 -- RPOs LA1, LX5, L36, L67)
and Hydra-Matic 4T65-E Transaxle/Transmission (RPOs MN3, MN7, M15)

This bulletin is being revised to add the Chevrolet Impala to the models affected. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-007 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).




(1) Transmission ID Location
(2) SRTA Tag Location
(3) Hydra-Matic 4T65-E SRTA Tag
(4) Model Year (9 = 1999)
(5) Control Number
(6) Transmission
(7) Serial Number
(8) Julian Date
(9) Calendar Year (9 = 1999)
(10) Model
(11) Hydra-Matic 4T65-E ID Tag
(12) Model Year (9 = 1999)
(13) Line Built (1 = Line 1; 2 = Line 2; 3 = Line 3; 4 = Line 4)
(14) Transmission
(15) Julian Date
(16) Shift Built (A = First Shift; B = Second Shift; C = Third Shift)
(17) Model
(18) Serial Number in Base Code 31
(19) W = Warren Plant
(20) Hydra-Matic 4T65-E
(21) Model

Some owners of the above models equipped with a Hydra-Matic 4T65-E transaxle with a Julian Date prior to 0045 may comment on a whine noise in PARK and/or NEUTRAL or a Service Engine Soon or Service Vehicle Soon lamp that is illuminated. Upon investigation, a DTC P0741 or P0742 may be found.

The above condition may be due to drive sprocket support bearing fluting and/or bearing failure.

Replace the drive sprocket support bearing. Inspect the channel plate and drive sprocket for any abnormal wear, Turbine shaft for cut seals and/or nicks, and chain for excessive play due to failed bearings.

When installing the new bearing, the part number MUST be visible (facing upward). Before installing the drive sprocket, lubricate the bearing assembly with J 36850 assembly lubricant.

Refer to the 4T65-E Unit Repair Section for the installation procedure.

Service Part Information:
Part Number: 24214158
Description: Drive Sprocket Support Bearing

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Its possible that you can use a voltmeter to test for power and ground at the TCC solenoid connector and also resistance across the solenoid. The scan tool is helpful in pulling the codes, commanding the TCC on and off and monitoring the state of command while driving.

Hope help with this (remem,ber comment and rated this).

Apr 20, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

Liftmaster garage door squeaks very loudly, I have luped all parts on the door but sound is coming from motor?

This is usually caused by a bad bearing on the shaft of the Gear and Sprocket Assembly. When it wears enough it will also let the chain come off the sprocket. If you look at the sprocket closely you can usually see that the shaft is leaning toward the door.

Apr 07, 2010 | Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain...

1 Answer

I need a sprocket assembly for my EL* 107624-02

Afternoon Happy;
The obsolete chainsaw Gods smiled on you today, but there is a catch 22. You must purchase a repair kit to get the parts you need.
Master Distributors
Part number 122511-01; SPECIALTY PARTS: SPROCKET GEAR (107713-01 SPROCKET GEAR, 075676 BEARING, 059606 DRIVE GEAR) (DSSP-SH); $16.99.

Are you aware RemingtonPower has ceased production? Soon eBay will be the only source for replacement parts.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH

Apr 06, 2010 | Remington 16" Electric Chain Saw

7 Answers

Chain & Sprocket turn, but Rear Wheel Not engaging/spinning

The problem is witht he flywheel on the rear wheel assembly. I had mine fixed by a professional last night (at a bike store). Razor uses a very cheap spring that is designed to fail and then to top that off did not use enough bearings as well (12 bearings short out of the factory). My son had also sprayed WD-40 all around the back axle (trying to make it faster). This is bad because, the bearings are packed in grease and WD-40 is a de-greaser. Never get WD-40 anywhere near your back axle!!! Anyway, the flywheel was way easier to remove than I thought. It is threaded onto the rim's axle shaft and just screws off. Once you get the flywheel, off you have to take it apart, fabricate a new spring (my son's new spring came from an old 10 speed's tensioning spring), reset the 3 pawls, repack the bearings, put the flywheel back together, and screw it back onto the wheel. I will post a YouTube video on this later. Hopefully this is enough info to get you started.

May 10, 2009 | Razor MX500 Dirt Rocket

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