Question about Toshiba 40H80 40" Rear Projection Television

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Sync gone nuts on non-progressive signals


I have a Toshiba 40H80 rear projection HD set that we recently replaced (partly due to the problem I am about to describe). If the repair won't be tremendously expensive or difficult, I'd like to do so before trying to sell the TV. I don't expect to get much for it either way, but I figured it'd be worth the effort... 

Some months ago, the picture coming from our non-HD Tivo went crazy all of the sudden. A faint, high-pitched whine could be heard and the picture tore completely to pieces to become, for the most part, colored lines. A few power cycles, etc., and it settled down. The problem began recurring with increased frequency, though, until it became the norm. 

I discovered along the way that the progressive output and HD devices I had worked, though, on the component inputs of the TV. This would include an XBox, AppleTV, DirecTV HD Receiver and my progressive-output DVD player. 

Basically, if the output was 480p or 1080i, I was good to go. This kept us using the TV for a while before buying a new flat panel last October. 

The beast is now gathering dust and I want to get rid of it. I dragged it out a bit ago and, as before, found all the inputs working fine for the first few minutes... then the whine started, sync went to crap and the non-component inputs became useless again. Being off for extended time - I suspect heat is a factor - seems to make it ok for a bit. 

Any thoughts on whether this is a difficult fix? Is there a capacitor possibly overheating? Bad solder joint of some sort? 

I have the schematics for the TV, too, if anyone has questions. 

- Aaron 

Posted by on

  • amahler Feb 21, 2008

    Thanks! I'll open up the TV and start pursuing this and let you know what I find...

    Do you know offhand how many caps might be involved?

     - Aaron



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Try to replace all the 10mf16v surface mount caps in the next-hyper unit. it is the digital scan card which is why you could get the higher res output devices to work. you can replace them with regular electrolytic caps if you cut the legs short enough. i would recommend using 2 soldering irons to heat both sides of the surface mounted cap at the same time then let gently pull the cap off.
******make sure you check the polarity of all the caps after you are finished****

Posted on Feb 21, 2008

  • MATT BECKER Feb 22, 2008

    there are somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 caps or so. it ia a delicate job just make sure you don't rush it you don't want to accidentally damage any traces.



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