I have a fli 12 subwoofer and amplifier package. i think the amp has 200w rms and the subwoofer has 1000w max output. it was all working fine for about a week. however whilst driving the subwoofer was making popping noises occaisionaly, usually when i turned lights on or main beam on. next time i turned the car on however the subwoofer failed to turn on. the LED is not even working. i have checked all fuses and wiring. i dont understand what can have happened?
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what product brand did you install. do you set the amps x-over and gains a sub sonic filter right
need to see if the amp is on check led light on amp. make sure your subs ohm load is correct for the amp.
let us an example fake amp 500x2channel max output 1000watts
if you wire your subs at 4 ohms you 250x2 rms stereo
if you wire your subs at 2 ohms you 500x2 rms stereo
if you wire your subs at 4 ohm mono you get 1000 watts
if you have the input voltage of 14.4 all the time at the amp
well first of all you cant bridge subs... you can bridge an amp... and for 2 they are probablly not 1000 watts, make sure you understand RMS and what the sub can ACTUALLY HANDLE properly... i would get a 1000 to 1500 watt RMS that is RMS RMS RMS RMS amp not one that says 2000 watts MAX POWER cuz thats cheap ****... get a kicker JL hifonic alpine or something in that category that actually tells you the TRUE power output of the amp... then run those 4 subs in a parallel circuit so its like really only having 2 subs. make sure then these subs do not run less then 2 ohms at the terminals while in a parallel, then bridge these subs acting as 2 subs not 4 to your TRUE 1000 watt amp and you should have a good powerful system
you are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)
i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?
comp VR 15s are rated @ 500W RMS 1000Peak.
The lanzar vibe amplifier is 2 x 600W RMS at 4 OHMS 2 x 1200W MAX at 4 OHMS 1 x 2400W MAX at 4 OHMS Bridged 2 x 1000W at 2 OHMS RMS.
Your subs are single 4 ohm subs.
If your subs are wired stereo, they both are seeing 600W. (more than the rated RMS)
Chances are, you have them wired parallel to a 2 ohm mono load - of which that amplifier is not rated. In theory, it will produce about 2000W @ 2 ohm mono for a short period of time.
Your amplifier is too powerful for your subs. Turn down the gain setting to 3/4 or purchase better subs. Also be sur the subs are inthe proper enclosure. It sounds as if they are excurting past their linear x-max and colliding with the rear bump plate. This will cause damage down the road if left as is.
Yes. If the rated power is 380W and the Max power is 1000W then it will handle it. Subs fry when clipping occurs. Clipping is when the amplifier is pushed past its capabilities and the output to the sub gets "dirty". The better quality the amp, the safer it will be on your speakers. It is also important to remember that the gain control on the amplifier is NOT a volume control to boot the sound, it is only to match the output from the headunit to the input handling of the amp. Cranking the gain up too much WILL CAUSE CLIPPING.