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06-06-2005, 10:51 PMHere's what the GM Manual says about this code:
The cooling fan relay sends a pulse width modulation (PWM) signal of 12-14 volts to the cooling fan clutch through the cooling fan clutch supply voltage circuit. The powertrain control module (PCM) uses this
PWM signal in order to control the speed of the cooling fan clutch. The
signal controls the position of the oil control valve inside the cooling
fan clutch. If the cooling fan RPM is different than the PCM is
expecting, DTC P1484 will set. The actual cooling fan RPM vs the desired
cooling fan RPM is not always exactly the same. There can be up to an
800-RPM difference.
The engine is running.
The system voltage is greater than 8.5 volts.
The intake air temperature (IAT) is greater than -7°C (19°F).
DTCs P1481 and P1482 are not set.
The engine speed is less than 3200 RPM.
The engine speed is not changing more than 250 RPM for 5 seconds.
Fan command is greater than 0%.
The maximum allowable error of 1000 RPM in the cooling fan speed occurs
for 100 seconds.
The PCM detects that the cooling fan clutch is locked up.
The Reduced Engine Power indicator illuminates only if the PCM detects
that the cooling fan clutch is locked up.
The PCM illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) during the
second consecutive trip in which the diagnostic test has been run and
failed.
The PCM will store the conditions as Freeze Frame/Failure Records data.
The PCM commands the cooling fan clutch to 100%.
Important
Follow this procedure in order to clear DTC P1484 after completing a
repair.
Use the Clear DTC Information function on the scan
tool.
Perform an ignition key cycle.
The PCM turns OFF the MIL after the third consecutive trip that the
diagnostic test has run and passed.
The history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have
occurred without a malfunction.
An inline connector could cause an intermittent DTC. Ensure to test for
poor connections and pin retention at all inline connectors. Refer to
system schematics for connector and locations.
If the condition is not present, refer to Testing for Intermittent and
Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.
Disconnect the harness connector of the cooling fan clutch from the
shroud. Inspect the exposed wires between the harness connector and the
tubing.
If DTCs P1484 and P0113 are set, and the weather conditions are cold,
the cooling fan code may be false. Clear DTC P1484, and after an IAT
sensor check, allow the DTC to reset .
I'd say that 'fan clutch is faulty' is your problem, based on the information you gave. Thank you for using Fixya and good luck
Check to see if your fan is plugged in correctly. If it is and still doesn't work, try plugging the fan into another fan port. If it still doesn't work, your fan is probably busted.
You geetin a false readin how can core 0 being a diffrent then core 1 when there the same waffer this is funny as all get out.. The ystem fan on this unit would be just below the power supply fan if you have one. If you do not have one then there will be little round holes there and you could look right into the case that means there is not fans present, Some manufactures do not power up the fan using the motherboard the piggy back it off one of the drive power cables thus you will get no reading at all Hence the sensor will not sense that there is a actual fan connected. If you where at 128 C you would burn the cpu you probably talking Fahrenheit? Anyway to remedy any situation you would need to buy a fan and put it where there is a place to put it in you case and plug it into the motherboard it should say FAN 1 etc etc.. Good luck
the fan must be the correct fan
i guess you meant the CPU fan, ? desktops can have 2 or 3 fans.
the fan has 3 wires, in many cases, the 3rd wire is a RPM tachometer that if not correct the PC can not read RPM
if RPM reads 0 the PC will be very upset. and do that.
my guess you bought the wrong fan, and is super easy to do
giving the many fans
on some PCs the BIOS monitors the fan RPM and heat sink temperatures, or both, and tells yous fan bad for either failing
on my PC here, now, I can go in to bios and see both live sensors
RPM and Temperature. this allows for easier diagnosis
i dont think your PC has that page in BIOS to do monitors for trouble shooting, in fact mine has 3 fans all 3 are monitored, now.
high end PC .
this older desktop , only the m7200 pages are there. at hp.
so cant look at the fan nor BIOS.
i use a windows program that lets me watch the fan speeds
and all CPU and GPU core temperatures. (ask) its free.
the troubleshooting guide at HP stops short at this problem
says get it fixed. so you want to fix it your self sure.
so talk to one of the top, CPU/HEATSINK/FAN makers
and buy this from them.
if the fan spins fast and RPM is 0 wrong fant
if the fan spins fast and RPM is ok, then the BIOS dont like the CPU temperature... this has 3 causes.
fan dead. or slow. or wrong fan installed
heat sink fins packed in lint as all do ever year.
heat sink thermal bond compound failure, common.
Well, since you connected your fan directly to the power supply, you are not getting any feedback thru the graphics card interface. This doesn't mean there is a problem since your fan is running full speed all the time, it is actually better and you should be able to see a difference on the GPU temperature.
If the GPU temperature is still too high and the fan is running at full speed, did you apply a thin coat of thermal paste on the heatsink? if not, there is your problem.
Now just to be clear did you connect the fan to the power supply or to a spare motherboard connector. If you connected to your motherboard, you need to go in the BIOS and change some settings regarding the fan speed (let me know if this is the case and I'll help you further about that.)
very unusual way to sya the cooling fan is inoperable.
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