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Re: Philips 32RF50 s How do I take the whole back off?
Put the tube face down on a towel, remove all screws on backside and pull rear cover straight up. There may be clips that retain the rear cover so you may have to push in on the sides to unhook from front cover.
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Replace the lid switch. Many models such as kenmore and whirlpool use mechanical switches and they crack. The wash will still function but the spin will not function correctly. (The socket is located under the control panel which hinges back after removing the two corner screws) There are 2 philips screws and a 5/16 hex screw holding the switch in. The 5/16 is a bummer to get to under the top of the machine. The wiring is in a plastic channel clipped onto the chassis under the top panel. Tilt the drum towards you to make access easier. Hope this helps
Here is a Quick tutorial on replacing the LCD screen on a Nikon L18 Coolpix camera.You will need a few small tools and a replacement screen, of course, for this fix.
#0 Philips head screwdriver 1.4 mm Standard screwdriver Plastic knife
1. Start by taking the batteries out of the camera and closing the battery compartment.
2. Remove 6 Philips screws, 3 from the bottom, 1 from each side, and 1 under the AV out flap.
3. Open the battery compartment and gently pry the AV out side of the camera apart.It should snap apart along the seam in the middle.Use your standard screwdriver to pry the back cover off by working it along the seam.If you are worried about scratching the finish you could use the plastic knife once you have it started.
4. Remove the back cover exposing the screen.The screen sits in a metal chassis that holds it in place.Lift the screen from the AV out side of the camera.Under the screen is a ribbon that connects it to the camera.Disconnect the ribbon and remove the old screen.
5. Install the new screen by connecting the ribbon and seating it in its chassis. You can test the camera by installing the batteries and pushing power to see if it functions.
6. Place back cover carefully back over the screen before pressing it in place.
7. Screw it back together and start taking pictures again.
Yes,u know how to solder right?Just use a fillip screw driver,u should able to opne it the back cover all the holes with screws.Here are some website u can buy parts for it.Tv Repair World.com,Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com or Partstore.com.It a whole big plastic sheet,open all fillips screws it with a fillip screw driver,all holes with
The problem likely is the cutter/chopper filter.
1. Remove bottom basket. Remove top basket (Pop off 'keepers' at the ends of the slidding shelf supports).
2. Remove bottom washing arm. Unscrew (Gently but firmily) centre post. Lift arm assembly out.
3. Remove overhead conduit. One screw at back and one at top (Philips #2 screwdriver bit). Rotate whole assembly 45 deg to the right (Clockwise) and lift off of centre post It can then be taken apart to clean.
4. Remove centre post (Pull straight up) Remove 4 screws (Star T-20 screwdriver bit). Lift whole plastic assembly out. Pop off the screen (Flat blade screwdriver around the edge) and clean.
5. Remove cap over cutter/chopper. There is a single screw at left front (Under the just removed centre assembly). Remove (Star T-15 screwdriver bit) screw and cap (Needs a bit of wiggling to get it free). Remove cutter and filter ( a stainless steel disc with many holes in it). Tt is on a spring loaded pin. Pull the cutter blade foreward and lift the filter straight up. Clean thoroughly. I then ran a 'quick rinse' cycle with everything out, to clean the inside.
6. Reassemble - Good luck! This worked for me.
This is a 5 step process.
1 Remove bottom basket. Remove top basket (Pop off 'keepers' at the ends of the slidding shelf supports).
2. Remove bottom washing arm. Unscrew (Gently but firmly) the centre post. Lift arm assembly out.
3. Remove overhear conduit. There is one screw at the back and one at the top (Philips #2 bit). Rotate the whole assembly 45 deg right (Clockwise) and lift off of the centre post. It can be taken apart to clean.
4.Remove centre post (Pull straight up). Remove 4 screws (Star T-20 bit). Lift the whole plastic assembly out. Pop off the screen (Flat blade screwdriver around the edge) and clean.
5. Remove cap over cutter/chopper. There is a single screw at the front left (Under center assembly just removed). Remove screw (Star T-15 bit) and cap (Needs some wiggling to free it up). Remove cutter & filter. It is on a spring loaded pin. Pull the cutter blade foreward and then the filter disc up. Clean thoroughly. Run a 'quick rinse' cycle with everything out, to clean the inside.
I`m not so sure about Mitsi`s, But usually the Chassis comes out as one complete unit so that it can be removed for service and taken away back to the workshop. The philips ones, The whole top section (Screen & Mirror) used to come away as one piece and then the whole bottom section could be taken away for service. Have a play but DON`T TOUCH THE MIRROR, it is silvered on it`s face, is EXTREMELY EXPESIVE to replace and is VERY EASY TO DAMAGE with finger prints and cloths etc.
I can't give you exact answers but I can tell you this: the torque required will vary with the thickness of the chassis material and its hardness. You also need to take into account what is being fixed to the chassis.
I'd suggest either contracting a suitable mech engineer for a day or doing a bit of trial and error: use a test chassis, drill a row of pilot holes, insert screw and torque down at a low setting; Increase torque for next one. When you find one that either damages what's being fixed down or strips the thread, back off a couple of steps and try 1/2 dozen more at that setting, just to be sure.
If the product is liable to be subject to vibration (including delivery, transport by purchaser, etc) then you'd need to check that the fasteners can cope with that as well.
The whole field of fastener torque is a minefield - try a Google search and you'll see what I mean!