Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer
Dear Master_Tech and Fixya folks,
You saved me money and time. You gave me the courage to go in there with a phillips screw driver and investigate, like you say in your comment. I found the hidden switch on the left, it is an Ark-les 1/2 HP, 125V, 60Hz, 250V, 50-60 Hz PN 8318084 that looks like a little plastic box that has a top lid and when I took the lid off I saw the little electro-mechanical relay switch (I had the machine unplugged while opening it up). And when opening and closing the washer lid, I could see that a black plastic knob coming from below moved in the middle of the relay complex. To make the story short I fiddled with the outside of the switch box and I noticed it was wiggling when moving the washer top loading lid up and down, My conclusion was that the switch was okay, but it was sitting very loosely and so it would not sense the lid opening. Now I have it secured to the machine by placing a screw between it and the machine hole where it sits. That, believe it or not, keeps it tight to the machine and allows it to sense the lid opening and closing. I covered the panel back up and everything works fine. Well that screw may come loose in some future due to vibration, so it is a temporary fix. But at least I can now finish the load that I had started. And maybe a few months more. I know the problem though if it stops working again, and how to fix it.
Thanks to all of you who do this,
Posted on May 22, 2008
It sounds like you have a motor coupling that has gone bad. Most of the Kenmore top loaders that I'm familiar with are direct drive machines. Which means, they use a motor coupling between the electric drive motor and transmission to run. If you are in the habit of doing heavy loads like comforters, blankets and jeans this can put a heavy burden on the motor coupler and wear it out faster. The coupler is designed to take the burden of the punishment in order to protect the transmission and drive motor and it is common for them to wear out. The coupler is fairly easy to replace and usually runs about $15. It is located inside the machine between the drive motor and transmission under the wash tub. You would have to remove the outside machine casing, the water pump and drive motor to get to it, though. Make sure the machine is unplugged before attempting any repairs involving removal of the drive motor. If you are not mechanically inclined, you may want to seek the aid of a repairman. I hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 29, 2007
Thanks, Master Tech; I was having the same problem as Jason. When I put the pen in place, I realized that the motor was running, but the tub wasn't spinning (which I thought it was because of the sound of the motor). So, I put my hand in and gave it a push/spin and it started turning on its own after I did that.. So, I'm going to let it run and see what happens when the cycle is done. At least its a start in the right direction!
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
SOURCE: washer doesn,t spin
Looks like chat support session must have timed out. The answer to your last question was, yes, pres. analog switch with a red, a white, and a blue wire to it.
Posted on Oct 27, 2008
SOUNDS LIKE THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT ALWAYS SHIFTING INTO HIGH SPEED MODE,TRY A MED. SIZE LOAD AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES,TRANSMISSION MIGHT JUST BE GETTING OLD WHIH IS NORMAL-MIKE
Posted on Dec 06, 2008
The clothes are wet after spinning
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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